azbanks

I replaced the clutch master and slave cylinders about three months ago. I bled the system and it seemed like the clutch was not disengaging all the way. I re-bled it about a month later and I got a lot of air out. I think I could have gotten more out if I kept at it. Since the second bleed session my clutch gets better every few days. It was impossible to get it into first gear with out either turning the engine off or rev matching at very slow speeds. Now it is a little stiff going in but it will go into first even completely stopped with the engine running. Has anyone had their clutch bleed itself before. Mine seems to be doing it. It is very noticeable if I don't drive it for 5-7 days.

TRP951

you must have not got all the bubbles out. Eventually it will work its way down there

kdjones2000

Several years ago I replaced my slave cylinder and bled my clutch, before knowing about Clark's Garage and all of the PITA people have had with bleeding the thing.

I went through the normal bleeding procedures with a friend, and it was soft and not disengaging fully. I finally said to hell with it, sealed it up and started driving it.

After about 5 miles of driving, and doing some hard double clutching to build up the pressure in it, it all of a sudden started working like it should.

So I am in your camp; they CAN magically bleed themselves!

Keith

MPD47

I ALWAYS bench bleed slaves off the bell housing. Never had an issue yet.

marky522

I have always bled master and slave with a pressure bleeder, I have done so many clutch/master swaps that i bet i could do it in an hour with a bleed... And i still have another one to do.

Mark

Van

Yeah, the air bubbles in the clutch slave USUALLY can work their way up to the master and then the resevoir - which is, I suppose, "self bleeding".

azbanks

I used a motive pressure bleeder and it still didn't get all the air out.
I just got back from a 7 day trip. I'm curious to see how it is tomorrow.