toddk911

Is the calibration process needed and does the O2 need to be done "free air"?

Also, is there a need to due constant/future re calibrations???

MM951

According to my LC-1 the calibration process is needed before inital install. It should also be done every 10K miles or 6 months. The fact that it could calibrate itself was one of the reasons I bought the LC-1 (similar to LM-1 I assume) over the AEM UEGO etc.

IRRC, you can calibrate it w/ the sensor still in the exhaust as long as it has been sitting at least overnight. I haven't come close to 10K miles yet so I'm not sure if I'll pull it out or leave it in.

I say do it

toddk911

Gotcha.

Did you wire in the LED for the initial calibration?

MM951

Yup. Then I installed the LED + button in my gauge panel under the radio.

toddk911

Ok.

Also, I see the dual plugs that one line taps into the lap top, but which one of the plugs do you hook up to?

95ONE

They're labeled if you look closely.

DrZ1

This sounds good but when, I spoke to Phillipe at tech support, he said not a good idea. I hate that because it is a pain to dissconnect the plugs from the sensor harness where I have mounted. I asked if I could just pull the power connection that I had a vampire connector,else it would be soldered, and he said I could, but the sensor had to be out .

Steve

toddk911

My thoughts exactly. Not very user friendly if I have to constantly get under the car and pull the sensor.

Why does the Zeitronix not need any calibration and it works just fine?

Chris White

There are two types of calibrations - a 'full' calibration when it is new – and a sensor calibration after that. Only the initial calibration requires the disconnection. It would be better to pull the sensor out for the free air calibration but it is not required.

toddk911

Got all installed but not getting data to the laptop.

It registers it is hooked up, but just no data on the Logworks "dashboard" screen.

Also, I am only using the LC1 right now, so only a/f. But no go... ??

Only one cable and three wires to hook up so not sure what the deal is.

kevincnc

Did you get it to do the initial calibration? Where are you getting power from? It's critical to have a very good stable 12V source, and good solid ground.

95ONE

you have to set which gauge and colors and stuff you want it to display on the software.
Also, the Yellow and I think brown, maybe black wires are extras that you can wire in to the stock computer or aftermarket one. One simulates a stock narrowband O2 the Yellow one is the true wideband output. Neither of those has to be connected.
you'll have to elaborate on the 3 wires that aren't connected.