eniac

I was about to order a new camshaft seal flange but the online order part numbers at some vendor websites were inconsistant. I then looked it up on the PET saw two different ones. 928.105.139.04 and 928.105.139.02 were both used on 1988 models.

How do I determine which one I need? Anyone know what the difference is?

Scootin159

Is one for the 944S?

cruise98

This list has been around for a while, so some of the part numbers may have been superceded. The spacer you are looking at was updated and that required a seal change to match.

Front Engine re-seal parts list for 1987 Porsche 944/951 and later 8 valve 2.5 liter engines


Camshaft

1 each O-ring 999.701.602.40
1 each Woodruff key (optional) 900.117.045.00
1 each O-ring (flat mylar washer) 944.105.321.00
1 each Spacer 928.105.139.04
1 each Seal 999.113.349.40
1 each Bolt (optional) 999.510.022.08
1 each Toothed roller 944.105.631.04
1 each Smooth roller 944.105.241.03
1 each Rubber seal 928.105.184.00
1 each Locknut N .022.149.0
1 each Washer N .011.527.12
1 each Belt 944.105.157.04


Crankshaft

1 each Seal 999.113.331.50
1 each Sleeve (oil pump drive) 944.107.161.02
1 each O-ring 999.707.283.40
1 each Woodruff key (optional) 900.117.036.00


Balance shafts

1 each Seal (upper, cw rotation) 999.113.282.40
1 each Seal (lower, ccw rotation) 999.113.281.40
2 each Spacer 928.105.139.02
2 each O-ring (mylar, same as cam) 944.105.321.00
2 each O-ring 999.701.652.40
2 each Woodruff key (optional) N 012.708.2
1 each Tensioner roller 944.102.025.07
1 each Smooth roller 944.102.277.06
2 each Locknuts N .022.149.0
2 each Washers N .011.527.12
1 each Belt 944.102.219.02


Water pump

1 each Water Pump 951.106.021.10
1 each Water Pump Gasket 944.106.132.04
1 each Block off plate (NA only) 944.106.313.00
1 each O-ring 999.707.283.40
2 each Bolt 6 x 20mm (optional) N .014.704.1
2 each Washer (optional) N .011.524.7
1 each Thermostat 944.106.019.00
1 each Support Washer 900.234.160.00
1 each T-stat O-ring 944.106.929.08 or
944.106.929.05 depends on water pump
The two items below are only required if the car has never been updated or the parts are damaged or missing
1 each Guard rail (for updated pump) 944.105.210.01
2 each Lock nuts (for guard rail) 999.084.092.02


Notes:

1. Spacers and oil pump sleeve should be replaced if they have wear grooves, or burrs which could damage a new seal. Use some fine
grade scotch brite to clean up the old ones, but replace them if in doubt.
2. The front crank seal is prone to leaking if not installed perfectly. I use an old crank gear and oil pump sleeve that I honed the center bore of to make it easy to slide on and off the crank, and use these two as spacers with the crank bolt to press the seal in squarely until flush with the oil pump face.
3. The balance shaft front housings must be removed to properly reseal them.
4. Oil seals and o–rings must be thoroughly lubricated before installation.

eniac

Both parts numbers are shown for a 1988 Turbo 8v. The change was during '88 so that's why I need to find out the difference between the two parts. After '88, they all used the 928.105.139.04 part.

Tom M'Guinn

Pelican shows engine number spilts, but seems to say 89 and later were 04, meaning 88 would be 02, but I don't know for sure. Guess I got lucky when I did my 89 n/a seals.

eniac

ok, so as long as I order the updated flange 928.105.139.04 along with the seal 999.113.349.40, It shouldn't matter which one I currently have correct?

cruise98

Correct.

eniac

Thanks

Tom M'Guinn

Anyone know why Porsche increased the size of the end piece? About to order a cam seal and end piece and trying to figure out if one is better than the other?

slap929

I know its kind of an old thread but it applies to what i am working on. I have had a bit of problem with the removal of the cam pulley and was wondering if the woodruff key really is an optional part of the crank. The key has been ground down due to the crank bolt backing out and allowing the balance shaft/alternator pulley to spin, destroying the key. I am trying to decide what to do now, as the timing pulley looks as if it will not be removed with the damaged key in place. So, as i see it, there are two options. 1) try to remove the timing pulley with some difficulty(the key being the main factor) or 2) use what i have in place and hope that it works with the torque holding everything in place. TIA for the advice.

Note: I tried to upload a picture of the damaged key but the file is to large.

951Saga

Option #1 is best. You or someone will have to remove the timing pulley for seal replacement at some point.

I believe you’ll have to remove the radiator to get a good gear puller on the crank. Your piece of mind is worth the effort involved!

zerMATT951

I wouldn't count on torque holding that in place... 2 votes for removing the radiator and getting a puller in there. You'll be glad you took the time to do it right.

slap929

Thanks for the suggestion. I will be removing the radiator and getting a pulley remover. Any suggestions for a particular pulley puller?

zerMATT951

You can rent/borrow (free) a small jaw-style puller from many auto parts stores, that should do the trick. Just be sure to put the crank bolt in before you put the puller on, that way you'll protect the crank threads.

Does the pulley come off at all with slight screwdriver prying, then get hung on the sheared key? Any additional clearance behind the pulley you can get before you start with the puller will help you get the jaws behind it.