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Track Car Build

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Old 05-23-2008, 07:16 PM
  #16  
rad_951
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I agree that more track time is the best for getting faster.

This is my first year participating in DEs and autox. I have attended 2 DEs, 4 autox, and 2 car control clinics. I have done all of these events in my M3. It has been a lot of fun and I wish I has started earlier. I prefer the DEs and would like to attend as many as my budget will allow.

The local Porsche club seems to have good prices on events. $135 per DE or $10XX for 9 to 10 events at Portland International Raceway. I am not sure if the package deal must be payed for up front. I would go for the package deal if I could be sure I could make every event.

I plan to drive the car to the events. I have seen some SCCA improved touring class drivers do this using a second set of wheels. If that becomes a problem, I have an SUV with a tow hitch and have space for a trailer. I am assuming the question about trailoring the car comes up because it changes the possible modifications? Like slicks and higher rate suspension?

I have experience working on European cars and will do any repairs or upgrades myself. For alignments I take it to a local shop that has experience with Porsche.
Old 05-23-2008, 09:14 PM
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333pg333
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One of the things you really should look into is the oil starvation issues that plague our cars on the track. Even on road or R-spec rubber. As for slicks you will definitely need to upgrade your system.
Old 05-27-2008, 10:17 AM
  #18  
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I've just received a picture of a customers track dedicated car running the same ATS German competition wheels I refered to earlier so I thought I'd post a pic as I can't recommend these enough for there extreme light weight ... but they do have a 'love um or hate um' appeal



I personally love them when factory finished in satin black
Old 05-27-2008, 10:33 AM
  #19  
reno808
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i have a pair of front Koni coilovers with rear Bilstein Firhawk HD shocks and camber plates for sell real cheap pm if your interested
Old 05-13-2009, 11:49 AM
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rad_951
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I just got the 951 back together after 3 months apart. In this round of maintenance and mods I installed a Vitesse Stage II kit, Racer's Edge control arms, Big Reds, and a OG Racing roll bar. Also, I had the head rebuilt, changed the rod bearings, and re-gasketed the engine.

On the first test drive last night I noticed a few things:

1. I installed solid motor mounts. The was a vibration in the 1500 - 2500 rpm range. I expected some vibration; does this sound like the normal range of rpms to feel vibration with solid mounts?
2. The boost pressure with the k26 was set at 14psi before teardown. Last night the boost only went to 10-11 psi. I did a quick test, so I am not sure about this. I was in second gear. Is it normal to need to re-set the boost controller with a new/larger turbo?
3. I converted the power steering rack to manual using the power rack. The steering is not that stiff; I can one hand steer it at slow speeds. I am very suprised at this.
4. The Vitesse Stage II makes the car behave like it has a v8 in it. It has a ton of low end torque; better than the k26.
5. Last night I heard the wastegate opening, which I had never heard before with the k26. Does a bigger turbo make the wastegate louder or am I hearing things that I had not listened for before? This is my first turbo car.

Thanks.

Tony
Old 05-13-2009, 03:11 PM
  #21  
DDP
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Aside from the vibrations (I've never had solid mounts), everything sounds about right. The sound you're hearing is most likely the diverter valve. On shift, correct? Unless you plumbed the WG to the atmos, you won't hear it. The reason you're hearing the diverter now, I'm assuming, is because you went to a hot wire setup instead of a barn door style air meter. Between shifts, before, the barn door style air meter was closed (as you were off throttle) and when the diverter would go off, you didn't hear it. Now the MAF sensor is open (hot wire sensor), so you can hear it through the filter as it goes off.
Old 05-13-2009, 09:17 PM
  #22  
hp18racer
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For your safety list, I'd put at the top:
Fuel Lines (replace) fuel rail and regulator (inspect very carefully)
Factory ball joints are a weak point on lowered cars. I've seen 5 break at the track.
Install late offset front spindles. The 86's are not as strong as the late offset spindles.



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