Front 26.8mm sway bar on 951
#1
Front 26.8mm sway bar on 951
so i just bought a 26.8mm 968 front sway bar off ebay for my '86 951. is this a good upgrade? will i feel the difference? i realize the 30mm is the way to go but i got this for $50 so i guess it sounds good. anyone running this bar? i will use the stock 951 rear bar for now. the seller also had a 968 rear bar which i almost bought until i found that it is either 16mm or 18mm & my stock 951 bar is 18mm so no gain there. are these specs correct? did porsche go down to a 16mm for the 968?
i sort of bought this compulsively as i found it with only 15 minutes to go but at the very least, my front sway bar bushings are shot and this bar comes with the appropriate bushings so i guess i did ok.
i sort of bought this compulsively as i found it with only 15 minutes to go but at the very least, my front sway bar bushings are shot and this bar comes with the appropriate bushings so i guess i did ok.
#3
i thought the mounting eye bushings were the same for all the different sway bar sizes.
anyways, how do you like the 26.8 compared to the stock bar? i'm guessing the difference is minimal but i'm sure it's noticeable.
also, is the 26.8 tubular or solid? i guess if it's tubular, the difference may not be too great.
#4
I have the 26.8 mm bar on. I used to have a 30mm and found it too harsh and went back to the 968 bar. If you are tracking all the time, really Welts or the Tarret bar is what you want for tune-ability.
I think you made an excellent choice.
I run the stock 951 bar out back and it's real well balanced.
I think you made an excellent choice.
I run the stock 951 bar out back and it's real well balanced.
#5
I have the 26.8 mm bar on. I used to have a 30mm and found it too harsh and went back to the 968 bar. If you are tracking all the time, really Welts or the Tarret bar is what you want for tune-ability.
I think you made an excellent choice.
I run the stock 951 bar out back and it's real well balanced.
I think you made an excellent choice.
I run the stock 951 bar out back and it's real well balanced.
cool, thanks for the info. glad it's well balanced. wouldn't want to create an understeering pig. i figure i can upgrade to the rear m030 19mm if i want some more oversteer.
#6
IMO the larger front bar with the stock rear bar will understeer too much.
with the stock bars my car had too much understeer for me, adding a larger front bar will only add to this.
I've switched to the 968 M030 bars with the rear on the middle setting, and I'm going to move it to the inner setting to help the car rotate more.
but then my last sports car was a 1st gen RX7 with a turbo 13B and it really
liked to go SIDEWAYS.
you can feel the bigger bars when one side of the car goes over a bump, driving down the highway there is no change. the ride is OK for me, only a little harder than stock.
The 26.8 with the 19MM rear bar could be a good combo.
with the stock bars my car had too much understeer for me, adding a larger front bar will only add to this.
I've switched to the 968 M030 bars with the rear on the middle setting, and I'm going to move it to the inner setting to help the car rotate more.
but then my last sports car was a 1st gen RX7 with a turbo 13B and it really
liked to go SIDEWAYS.
you can feel the bigger bars when one side of the car goes over a bump, driving down the highway there is no change. the ride is OK for me, only a little harder than stock.
The 26.8 with the 19MM rear bar could be a good combo.
#7
I run a 26.8 with delrin bushings on the front of my NA time trial/autox 944 in combination with 200# Weltmeister front springs, KLA strut brace and a 19mm three-hole rear bar mounted with billet block delrin chassis mounts and spherical bearing drop links. The rear bar holes and externally adjustable yellow Koni's in the front allow for enough adjustment to keep the car away from pig-nose pushing.
As John notes, the trick is to get the car to rotate at the upper end of your tractive limits. I think, the balance goal is get the car close enough to neutral that you can chose to induce a bit of understeer or oversteer with your driving technique. Doesn't matter whether the nose or tail gives up the ghost first over the limit, because your goal is to drive the car fast AT the limit.
Last fall at Jefferson, I was the beneficiary of some great driving tips from a fellow SCCA Time Trial driver (C Mod Swift!) who taught me an important lesson about race car handling vis a vis driving technique. With three hints...how to get out of Turn 1...and where to position the car coming into Turn 5 and Turn 7...the car changed from an understeering snorter to easy rotation in mid turn and WOT exits with the wheels tracking straight as arrow. Point being that more than a little bit of any car's handling is a function of the driver's lines, especially when you're momentum racing
As John notes, the trick is to get the car to rotate at the upper end of your tractive limits. I think, the balance goal is get the car close enough to neutral that you can chose to induce a bit of understeer or oversteer with your driving technique. Doesn't matter whether the nose or tail gives up the ghost first over the limit, because your goal is to drive the car fast AT the limit.
Last fall at Jefferson, I was the beneficiary of some great driving tips from a fellow SCCA Time Trial driver (C Mod Swift!) who taught me an important lesson about race car handling vis a vis driving technique. With three hints...how to get out of Turn 1...and where to position the car coming into Turn 5 and Turn 7...the car changed from an understeering snorter to easy rotation in mid turn and WOT exits with the wheels tracking straight as arrow. Point being that more than a little bit of any car's handling is a function of the driver's lines, especially when you're momentum racing
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