BlacknRedGT

ok.. so whats the deal with getting the 24mm bolt off???? My only mission tonight was to get off that bolt.

Went out and bought a new breaker bar but I am trying to get it undone from the bottom because the fan is in the way on top. Im not weak but I can not break the bolt free at all.

Please help me by choosing a option in the poll or replying with something better. Thanks.

fortysixandtwo

I wouldn't advise using anything other than a 6 point socket for breaking nut & bolts loose. Removing the flywheel lock and moving the crank to a better angle makes the most sense, even if you need to perform the remove and adjust cycle a few times.

hosrom_951

No problems removing that bolt at all, from the top.

I used a 24 inch long breaker bar.

Waterguy

The toughest one I have removed yet required two of us on a 4' steel cheater pipe. It took probably 800 ft-lbs to get it moving. Other ones have been easier, but I generally need that 4' cheater bar to get them started. You probably won't budge it with an 18" or 24" breaker bar alone. I bought 4' of 1" black iron gas line pipe as my cheater; it slips over my 24" breaker bar. To use a long bar, you need to be able to loosen them from the top; I have a 1.5" long 1/2" drive extension that allows me to use a short 24 mm socket and lets my bar clear the fan and get a pretty good swing.

If you are going to remove the fly wheel lock, make sure that your timing belt is still on!

turboted

+1 on the 4' cheater pipe. Anything you can find to increase your leverage will help. I frequently use the detachable handle from my jack...it's about 3' feet long and slides right over top of a 2' breaker bar. Easy, free, and works like a charm. Oh...and yes, a deep well 24mm socket helps, too.

billthe3

I used a breaker bar and then stuck the handle to my floor jack (it bolts together in the middle) on there as a cheater bar. Probably ended up being somewhere around 4'.

ryanm6100

Option 4 seems to be the most logical.

Tom M'Guinn

One more vote for the cheater pipe. I went to Home Depot and bought a thick metal plumbing pipe to slide over my breaker bar, and cut it to fit under the open hood. First time on a 20 year bolt takes a lot of force. You will not get enough leverage from below, unless on a lift, and probably better off not being under the car when pulling that hard.

billthe3

If you are going so far as to pull the crank bolt, why not just pull out the fans to give you more clearance? It makes it a hell of a lot easier to get to the crank bolt. They're only held in place by, what, 6 bolts or something?

RKD in OKC

What you need is a gorilla wrench monkey.

Sometimes a little heat with a torch helps stubborn bolts and fasteners. However, even if you know what you are doing you can sometimes also set the whole thing on fire.

Ski

this may sound silly, but make sure you're pulling and not pushing on the breaker bar. For stubborn ones, put a safety under the car (tires or anything that will prevent it falling on you), put your legs on the opposite side frame, get a good grip on the bar, pull with your back and push on the frame with your legs.

adrian1

Yeah make sure you have a 6 pt 24 mm socket with a breaker bar and and pipe to slide over inoder to get more leverage. The bigger the pipe the more leverage.

FRporscheman

use a long pipe

RPHARRIS

I used a deep 6pt socket. The deep was way easier to manage than the shallow with the short extension. You might consider the old rope in the sparkplug-hole trick (I'm too lazy to use a flywheel lock). Or my father's really shady way: put the car in gear and use the parking brake.

gt37vgt

i think a used the trolly jack to crack it loose from underneath or perhaps a 1m bar i did desroy a cheap socket it just split in 6 spots