more boost questions
01-31-2008, 10:30 PM
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Location: Las Cruces, NM
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more boost questions
so i was crusin. and decided to down shift to pass a slow car, and i felt my car lag...like not accelerate at alll of what im used to. the stock boost gauge is all i run right now...bare w me i just got paid.
so under accleration it reads about .75 bar. or a little less than before the 2 on the gauge. when i acclerated tonite the car would not build boost at all. gauge read right above 1 bar. no more. just would no build it.
my guess is stuck wastegate maybe? this is the second time its happend this week.
the probolom is fixed, (temperaraly) when i turn the car off and turn it back on real quick.
any suggestions? i kinda got a feeling im buying a new WG this weeekend....
thanx
so under accleration it reads about .75 bar. or a little less than before the 2 on the gauge. when i acclerated tonite the car would not build boost at all. gauge read right above 1 bar. no more. just would no build it.
my guess is stuck wastegate maybe? this is the second time its happend this week.
the probolom is fixed, (temperaraly) when i turn the car off and turn it back on real quick.
any suggestions? i kinda got a feeling im buying a new WG this weeekend....
thanx
01-31-2008, 11:11 PM
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When the engine is not making boost, does it run rough when you step on it? If Yes, then you are hitting the overboost for some reason. If the car runs fine, just no boost, it appears that your cycling valve is bad. The cycling valve controls the WG.
It's easy to test the WG, just be careful doing it. You can clip the line going to the WG (from the cycling valve). Just make sure it makes a bit of boost (between 1-2) on your gauge. Your right foot is the only boost control in this test mode, don't let it run wild. This is for testing only. If the car makes boost during this test, then the WG is fine.
If the WG is fine, I'll start looking at the Cycling Valve.. More that likely this is the problem.. Of course a faulty KLR will cause the same problem, but I'll hold off a bit on this one.
It's easy to test the WG, just be careful doing it. You can clip the line going to the WG (from the cycling valve). Just make sure it makes a bit of boost (between 1-2) on your gauge. Your right foot is the only boost control in this test mode, don't let it run wild. This is for testing only. If the car makes boost during this test, then the WG is fine.
If the WG is fine, I'll start looking at the Cycling Valve.. More that likely this is the problem.. Of course a faulty KLR will cause the same problem, but I'll hold off a bit on this one.
02-01-2008, 05:23 PM
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well i replaced the cycling valve less than 2 months ago.
the problom is sorta fixed (seems like it anywasy) when i turn the car off then turn it back on.
and when it dosent make boost it runs fine. its just slow as hell. i feel like im driving a sentra.
the problom. like most of them, is sparatic. does it when it wants. under no set of parameters does it do it. just wheneevr the hell it wants. what now?
the problom is sorta fixed (seems like it anywasy) when i turn the car off then turn it back on.
and when it dosent make boost it runs fine. its just slow as hell. i feel like im driving a sentra.
the problom. like most of them, is sparatic. does it when it wants. under no set of parameters does it do it. just wheneevr the hell it wants. what now?
