cb951

[QUOTE=reno808;4973400]1. Yes, the limiter is very important to me. It's the aftermarket EBC way of controlling overboost. I definitely plan on resetting that.

2. How much higher do you think gain should be (ballpark)?

3. Start (set gain) is the boost at which you want boost to begin. I think Deman set it to 0 simply to start boost at the minimum allowed by the WG spring, which is 0.8 bar (11.6 psi).

4. I appreciate all of the info and the time you've taken to address my issues. I may take you up on coming to your house to "play", but it's already getting dark today (yes, I have headlights). And yes, you seem like a "nice guy". Really, thanks.

I thought so too, but Deman has such a good reputation on RL that I trusted their knowledge and experience. Plus, they tuned the EBC using the dyno.

NZ951

You should be able to hold 15+psi to redline with a Tial and EBC... lots of people have done it.

reno808

[QUOTE=cb951;4973466]it takes a few minuts to do it your self. but what ever you do set your LIMTER and WARNING FIRST then you can play with everything else.

cb951

I have read that. I've also read dissenting opinions, saying that the k26/6 doesn't (but that a k26/8 can). I tend to believe that it IS possible, but EVERYTHING needs to be set perfectly (and why shouldn't it be so?). I thought I had (over)paid for perfection, but I'm disappointed.

NZ951

of course its possible, it if wasnt so many people wouldnt have achieved it.

I was boosting the k26/6 to around 20psi from memory before I changed it. I cant recall what the curve was like, though I believe it was pretty stable, though I had a reasonably modified car.

Really you should be 30 more WHP up or so when you get the boost control sorted (and any associated issues).

cb951

NZ,
I didn't doubt what you said about maintaining 15psi to redline. It's just that I've read differing opinions in the course of the last year. If I recall correctly, I believe that most of the people who achieved it also had heavier modifications. I could be wrong.

30 more WHP would be nice. Do you agree with Reno that my EBC settings are not optimal? Way off?

NZ951

I have not used that EBC on a 944 so I cant say about your settings specifically, but they will vary by setup even on the same car with similar mods, thats why they allow so much configurability. Based on your boost curve, I would say you need to adjust the duty cycle of solenoid on the basis that you dont have a mechanical restriction in your system preventing you from holding that boost. I guess I am saying, if your exhaust is not creating so much back pressure the turbo chokes, and the WG is cabable, the most realistic area to focus on is the boost control values. But I wouldnt do that given the AF values in the upper rpm as it stands to be honest, you do know the FPR will up the fuel based on the pressure, but you dont know if that will be sufficient unless you are on the dyno... basically you will be going into fuel and timing zones in the tables that you have not proven.

95ONE

Sorry guys. Myself and tons of others can't hold boost to redline like yours. Whatever the reason. NOT argueing that you can or can't. But I can see from the many topics and posts in the past there is a clear line of people that drop boost to around 12psi, (K26/6)no matter what the settings or wastegates are.

Just so the poster here doesn't start pulling his hair out. If your turbo doesn't keep boost all the way to redline. Don't fret. A HUGE percentage of us here couldn't either. Congrats to all that could. That's awesome. ONCE AGAIN. not debating possibility, just sharing my personal info and info of others I've read here that this is not an un-common issue. Please don't get frustrated.

Your dyno was awesome. Had great power. Just work with russel to smooth out the AFR's.

cb951

I knew before I posted my dyno results today that they weren't perfect, and that I'll work with Russell on the AFRs, but after all of the posts between my original and 95ONE's, I was feeling a bit bummed about my boost curve, AFRs, and the resulting loss of power gain. I was just about to go to sleep, when I saw this post. Thanks. It makes me feel better.

95ONE

I'm glad. I made 252@ the wheels on a Dynojet. (15psi) A/C and power steering removed and open exhaust.
It seems your numbers Fit right where I was at with almost your exact mods. Clearly your car is faster than before. See how much yourcurve smoothed out with the Tial? My Dyno curves looked identical to your before and after ones. (Still here on Rennlist somewhere) I remember driving it after those mods. Had a smile for months.

Rick DeMan

Rick DeMan

Hey Chris,

Before you get all riled up and prodded along by Reno808, maybe you should read this thread here on the Rennlist. Read the whole thing please...

https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...ighlight=deman

cb951

'nuff said, Rick.

I in no way meant to disparage Deman Motorsport (Rick or Spencer). They have a great RL reputation, a tremendous motorsport operation, and a great facility in Blauvelt, NY. Sorry for the momentary lapse into the depths of limited (# of posts) forum opinion, hearsay, and people who may say more than they actually know. (No one specifically targeted here, just an ongoing reality when reading any forum posts. Since very few posters know each other personally, few can be certain of anyone's qualifications or the accuracy of any post. That's why it took almost a year of research on RL and other forums, along with vendor and manufacturer sites, to settle on the exact mods I chose. I knew from all of that to take all posts with an air of caution. I believe that most everyone who posts does it with good, honest intentions to the best of their ability, including all of the posts in this thread. And I truly thank EVERYONE for the input and advice.) I know I need to temper these initial posts with other opinions. Please keep them coming.

Regarding my boost curve --
When I picked up my car from Deman, Spencer told me that he played around with the EBC settings to get a smooth, flat curve, and that no matter what he did, boost still rolled off a bit at higher rpms. I had no problem with that, as I've read countless posts with the same outcome. The dyno boost graph confirms the smooth, flat curve with the expected drop-off at higher rpms. I will, however, reset the warning and limiter for safety.

Regarding the AFRs --
I've emailed Russell (and pointed him to my original post in this thread), and am waiting to hear back from him.

Overall --
I'm still very happy with the mods. Driving my car (which I've had in stock configuration for 15 years) is really fun again.

Thanks to everyone who has posted so far, and thanks to Deman Motorsport!

Rick DeMan

Hey Chris,

Also just to verify, the dyno sheets show your original unmodified version overlayed with the modified results. As you can see the boost even drops off with the stock set-up.

lart951

Let me say something. I know guys that can build a race 944 turbo engine with the eyes closed, I know Porsche mechanics and tuners here and So Cal that can build a 800rwhp 966TT but don't know sh%t about 951's, the key word in 944T is "TUNING" the ideal A/f ratio for the 944T is 11:3 to 11:7 at wot and in some cases and depending of fuel quality you can go 12:3. In my experience running 12:5 is not safe in our cars, it might not blow the HG right away but eventually it will. Check these dyno sheets from my cars and I am not claiming to be an expert here but I ran my last 951 for almost 4 years without a single issue, the sane block was used by special tool to produce 543rwhp.

I don't know deman but if they tune your engine oh boy let them stick to what they know best and is not 951's I can tell you that

see the a/f ratio in my cars almost a flat line right?