Best form for break in of new engines. See link.
11-28-2007, 05:40 PM
#31
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I did and have it confirmed by various engine biulders is:
Run it on the street for 70 miles, keep it under 4000rpm. This is basicly to make sure that the engine is all set and the tune is good enough to do hard pulls.
Do what the web site you posted says, that is the same web site I used. I did it on the street because I did not have acess to a dyno at that time. I did it on an empty highway at night.
Change the oil, still using dino oil.
Do another 400-500 miles with lots of accel and decel, trying not to cruise at at specific rpms for too long.
Change oil to Synthetic.
your engine is not completely broken in. Some people will say the last 400-500 miles is not needed and race cars don't do it, I did it for good measure.
Run it on the street for 70 miles, keep it under 4000rpm. This is basicly to make sure that the engine is all set and the tune is good enough to do hard pulls.
Do what the web site you posted says, that is the same web site I used. I did it on the street because I did not have acess to a dyno at that time. I did it on an empty highway at night.
Change the oil, still using dino oil.
Do another 400-500 miles with lots of accel and decel, trying not to cruise at at specific rpms for too long.
Change oil to Synthetic.
your engine is not completely broken in. Some people will say the last 400-500 miles is not needed and race cars don't do it, I did it for good measure.
We stick to non-synthetic oil here all the way. 25W 60 race.
11-29-2007, 12:45 AM
#32
Rennlist Member
I've read that site, also, awhile back; and I don't feel like reading it again, but remember the essense of it.
I think it's good info. But, like anything, you have to also read between the lines and use common sense.
When he says "run it hard", it's another way of saying "don't just putt around". It doesn't mean to go and drive the **** out of it (possibly Dfastest just went a little overboard, for example)
Again, read between the lines.
The article says to accelerate hard through the gears, and then to decelerate with negative load (preferably with fuel shutoff). Then, only do this for a short driving stint. This combination reduces the amount of heat build-up, which prevents glazing (or something).
So, from a heat perspective, you're not really driving the engine very hard at all.
I had a new 3.0L engine built and pretty much used this info for my break-in. I didn't use synthetic until after 4 or 5 thousand miles. I'm happy to report practically no oil consumption and very little oil coming from my crankcase breather. I also use thinner oil then most here would use. This would indicate very little blow-by. That would be my experience. It's still all new, so we'll see how long these observations will last.
I think it's good info. But, like anything, you have to also read between the lines and use common sense.
When he says "run it hard", it's another way of saying "don't just putt around". It doesn't mean to go and drive the **** out of it (possibly Dfastest just went a little overboard, for example)
Again, read between the lines.
The article says to accelerate hard through the gears, and then to decelerate with negative load (preferably with fuel shutoff). Then, only do this for a short driving stint. This combination reduces the amount of heat build-up, which prevents glazing (or something).
So, from a heat perspective, you're not really driving the engine very hard at all.
I had a new 3.0L engine built and pretty much used this info for my break-in. I didn't use synthetic until after 4 or 5 thousand miles. I'm happy to report practically no oil consumption and very little oil coming from my crankcase breather. I also use thinner oil then most here would use. This would indicate very little blow-by. That would be my experience. It's still all new, so we'll see how long these observations will last.
