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Cold weatehr experts needed

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Old 11-28-2007 | 11:53 AM
  #16  
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your temp comes up at idle because u don't have air flow thru the radiator, typical symptom of a missing/ stuck open thermostat.
Old 11-28-2007 | 12:09 PM
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North side of Baltimore.
Old 11-28-2007 | 01:28 PM
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When you flush the coolant and pur in antifreeze, use distilled water when add coolant rather than tap water. Less minerals, chlorine and other contaminants.
Old 11-28-2007 | 01:56 PM
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water is a better coolant than antifreeze, which could explain why the temp dropped dramatically. Go to the Audi dealer and get their blue coolant, it's the 'proper' coolant for these blocks
Old 11-28-2007 | 05:50 PM
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Thanks for all the tips guys!

Yea, you can't beat much for colling than water. 90% water and 10% water wetter is standard mix in FL for sports/track cars.

So there is the main thermostat, and aux tstat and then the thermo fan switch right???

What brand weight oil do you al use up here for winter? As I have 20w/50 now and know I need to drop it but to 40 or down to 30??
Old 11-28-2007 | 05:58 PM
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Originally Posted by toddk911
What brand weight oil do you al use up here for winter? As I have 20w/50 now and know I need to drop it but to 40 or down to 30??
5W40 or 5W30 synthetic for temperatures well below freezing.
Old 11-29-2007 | 11:52 AM
  #22  
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In my experience, if you run the car hard (a few runs to redline), even in the winter, a 30W will not provide sufficient oil pressure at idle. I'm currently running a mix of 0-40 and 15-50 Mobil 1. Castrol Syntec 5w-50 would be a good choice too, it won't ever be below freezing in Maryland.
Old 11-29-2007 | 01:08 PM
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Originally Posted by 944CS
In my experience, if you run the car hard (a few runs to redline), even in the winter, a 30W will not provide sufficient oil pressure at idle. I'm currently running a mix of 0-40 and 15-50 Mobil 1. Castrol Syntec 5w-50 would be a good choice too, it won't ever be below freezing in Maryland.

I lived in Virginia for about 10 years. It definitely gets below freezing there, and in Maryland.
Old 11-29-2007 | 03:14 PM
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Originally Posted by 944CS
In my experience, if you run the car hard (a few runs to redline), even in the winter, a 30W will not provide sufficient oil pressure at idle.
With Mobil 1 5W30 the lowest wintertime idle oil pressure that I ever saw was 2 bar. Most of the time it was 3 bar on a warm engine. Where I live there' s no possibility of running the engine to redline in winter weather unless you turn the boost way, way down. In the cold you are traction limited (unless maybe you have winter tires). YMMV.
Old 11-29-2007 | 07:31 PM
  #25  
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If you're talking wind chill, then yes it sometimes gets below zero. Last year the coldest day of the year in Philly was 10, and Maryland is a few hours south
Old 11-30-2007 | 11:43 PM
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When it comes to cold weather operation, I have a bit of experience living in Canada. Your car, with good thermostats, should keep the needle at or close to the first mark. Driving it in -20F temps my car will stay in the proper operating range. Don't often do that as I don't have snow tires so it usually gets parked, but I have driven it in the cold . For oil in the cold country 5-40 or 5-50. The multi weights really do work well.
Old 11-30-2007 | 11:50 PM
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Originally Posted by toddk911
But as VT said, it just seems logical that if you are driving at 40-50mph in 30-40 degree temps; that is REAL cold air/wind chill (surface temps) across the rad, IC, oil cooler, etc. etc. Especially since I have the fog lights removed for even more air flow into the engine bay and directly to the oil cooler.

But, there are plenty of other cars that run in the cold cliimates that maintain normal operating temps in the winter.
I've driven my 944 in some COLD weather... didnt have any issues with the temperature dropping to where it was cold.

If you wanted to go crazy, you could do the same thing as diesel trucks.... cover up the front end of your radiator...

But honestly, I'm pretty sure its your thermostat.

There is an easy way for you to solve all this... move back to orlando :-)
Old 11-30-2007 | 11:57 PM
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When you replace the t-stat, make sure to replace the seal around it as well.



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