951and944S

Get rid of it altogether.

Cup plug or thread seal the aluminum bore in the girdle that the pickup tube seats in.

Drill and tap the pan at a low side location and epoxy mesh screen inside.

Run external stainless braided hose alongside right side of engine block.

Turn up towards oil pump and attach to pump suction side externally with 90 deg. fitting.



T

drift a 944

This is how mine looks. It was done by Redbone Garage in Orlando, and I was told it was a design that has proven to last basically forever on many track and street cars, all 944 models/variants, whether using the balance shaft belt or not.

951and944S

One more issue with the stock tube breaking.

Always tighten the 10mm head bolt last.

If, during disassembly or while tube gets moved around from place to place around your bench, part's cleaner, whatever, the bracket gets bent even slightly, the two flanges that bolt to the girdle will stress the tube from the get-go.

Also, some assemblies may be picked from spare parts or a different engine and won't necessarily align perfectly. Bolt/torque the flanges with the bracket loose and tighten bracket last.

T

Duke

might work, but I think I'll pass

Duke

Thanks for sharing, that looks like an interesting alternative.
Starting with a new pickup like Pete suggests is a very good idea but since the design itself is a source of failure's an additional brace or gusset is an extra insurance.

drift a 944

Originally I was going to buy a new one and have the new one reinforced... However I was later convinced that this design was strong enough to be able to just reuse the current one. I guess you could say that I invested my trust in this design...!

savvas944

plus one for dry sumping.

Completed 24 hrs endurance race, open the sump , pick up tube hanging by a thread and virually no bearings or shells in no 2 conrod.Suprisingly oil pressure
was at 4 bar ,during racing.

sump was full of copper metal bits.

Any track car over 350 hp should have a dry sump ,or at least to have a beefier oil tube reinforced by TIG welding and added plate at the base where is mounted on the block basically where the cracks happen and stronger bolts.

Oddjob

The reinforced tubes that I have had done by a local p-car shop are similar to the photo posted by Elliot. Except the additional band/connecting tab is tig-welded over top of the existing tab (reinforcing it) instead of a separate attachment point. The base connection where the tube is brazed/tacked to the mounting base is also tig-welded all the way around.

Dave951

951and944S I'd love to see some photos of a car with this external setup installed.

951and944S

I'm working on one now and taking pictures along the way.

You can add me to your friend's list or mark this thread and PM me and I'll send you some pics as I progress.

Unless you are ok with not running belt cover on the street, I'd categorize this as a track only modification because you need to access the oil pump housing right next to the crankshaft timing belt drive pulley.

I guess you could modify the plastic belt cover accordingly though and retain those if you chose to.

There's not much clearance between the oil pump housing and the back of the balance belt pulley but I'm working out the correct fitting now.

On my personal car, I machined off all the teeth on the balance shaft drive pulley at the crankshaft and use that for a 60/2 toothed wheel for crank trigger so I have more clearance on that car.

I'm contemplating on just machining away all of this same sprocket except enough material to use the pulley as a spacer to clear room on this other project but I'm trying to make it work with balance pulley in place as stock for anybody who wants to run balance shafts.

T

Duke

Got some pics from Kevin Johnsson at Crank-scrapers.com.
Very nice little bracket that reinforces the pickup at the location were it always seems to break.