Vitesse Stage 2: 55 or 72lb injectors?
#16
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You must remember that most of the Stage 3 dyno runs shown on John's site are from Special Tool. The really high hp ones are not stock 2.5 liter motors with just a kit bolted on. At the time Special Tool had much more money/time/parts into it then that. Otherwise you'd see everyone with those type of numbers.
is it possible to change rods/pistons without removing the engine from the car?
#17
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Change? Meaning you'll have to machine the block. You're thinking of going larger displacement? Then the motor has to come out. The work involved to keep the motor in the car and pull the pistons and rods is just beyond retarded. It's not difficult to pull the motor.
#18
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-BB
#20
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not pulling it is always easier than pulling it
#21
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I disagree. I would pull the motor to change a clutch, that's how easy it is. It's harder to work on the motor in the car, under the car, around the car. Especially with something as critical as a piston/rod swap. Stronger pistons and rods? In a turbo? What for? They're plenty strong, ask Special Tool. If you mean larger, as in larger bore/stroke, I would agree.
Of course, what do I know? I've only rebuilt and swapped more motors then days I've been alive. Plus, my sig isn't as long as yours. Silly me.
Of course, what do I know? I've only rebuilt and swapped more motors then days I've been alive. Plus, my sig isn't as long as yours. Silly me.
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#22
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You too could add 'closet' to your sig. but haven't you just come out??
#23
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The Dyno charts state the conditions and the modifications to the car at the time. On race gas, a "healthy" stock engine will be good for 400-420rwhp (on race gas). You can make more, but the stock head becomes a factor.
#24
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I disagree. I would pull the motor to change a clutch, that's how easy it is. It's harder to work on the motor in the car, under the car, around the car. Especially with something as critical as a piston/rod swap. Stronger pistons and rods? In a turbo? What for? They're plenty strong, ask Special Tool. If you mean larger, as in larger bore/stroke, I would agree.
Of course, what do I know? I've only rebuilt and swapped more motors then days I've been alive. Plus, my sig isn't as long as yours. Silly me.![Wink](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
Of course, what do I know? I've only rebuilt and swapped more motors then days I've been alive. Plus, my sig isn't as long as yours. Silly me.
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if you had a broken rod or bent wrist pin, how long would it take you to replace it? (hours?) would you pull the engine?
#25
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I don't have a porsche anymore so I'm doing lots of research. I just bought a 951 in good condition with about 100k miles on it and never wanted to run race gas, then what stage kit of yours would I get and how much max rwhp/tq should I get?
#26
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well if you done a lot of engine pulls its easy for you, I was just curious if its NEEDED to put in stronger pistons and rods. or can you lift the car up and do it from below and above?
if you had a broken rod or bent wrist pin, how long would it take you to replace it? (hours?) would you pull the engine?
if you had a broken rod or bent wrist pin, how long would it take you to replace it? (hours?) would you pull the engine?
If you had a broken rod your motor would be trashed (hole in the block/completely scored clyinder) and it'd have to come out to be replaced/machined anyways, lol.
#28
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lol
#29
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Well it is quite difficult to "pull" the motor, meaning to pull it up and out. It's very easy to drop the motor. It seems like a huge ordeal to drop the entire crossmember, steering, and suspension but you do this all as one peice. There are really not that many bolts holding the entire thing up. Biggest thing is making sure EVERYTHING is unplugged before you lower the assembly down. Once it's on the ground and out from underneath the car you will be amazed at how simple it will be to do any work you want on the car.