billthe3

I'm getting rather annoyed at the stupid mounting/brace tab on the bottom of the down pipe. Can this be cut off without mal affect?

How exactly are you supposed to get the bolt in place with this thing anyway? I forget how I got this bolt off when I removed the turbo since it was so long ago. Is this tab generally bolted in place or not used?

Thanks for any help.

hosrom_951

This one?



I am considering chopping that off as well. The AOS heat shield has two bolts, one goes on the block, the other goes through that downpipe mount. Using another (shorter) bolt to secure the shield maybe a good idea....

PS: I recall using a 1/4" ratchet, with two 6" extensions and a swivel to get proper access to remove that bolt, installing it should be fun

Jeremy Himsel

You can remove it but the weight of the exhaust will be divided between the hot side of your turbo and the rubber exhaust hangers. Many people just leave the bolt out, other's put a stud in the block.

PorscheDoc

Yup, screw a stud into the block, and then you just have to get the nut on and off. Much easier.

shiners780

I reached up blind from underneath and got it in, and used a stubby wrench to tighten from below. But it wasn't easy.

eniac

You can remove it but you will be taking a risk on tearing your turbo apart. A few years ago I had this happen. I was too impatient to put that bolt back in after changing turbos. A couple weeks later when I decided to really test the cars power, the turbo turned into a grenade at 6k rpm. It litterally ripped in half, throwing up compressor shards into my TB, tore apart the plastic TPS, and left a cup full of metal chucks in my intercooler.

I never found out exactly why the turbo did this but a rennlist search at the time revealed similar experiences with others who left that bolt out(most were not a catastrophic as mine). I doubt it was a coincidence that many of people having turbo issues, also left that bolt out.

My belief is that the turbo flexed without this bolt causing the compressor wheel to contact the housing, it quickly exploded from there. With everything heated up and forces trying to twist all your not-too-flexible metal engine parts, this bolt helps prevent the turbo from twisting.

A 1/4 air-ratchet with a short socket is a snap to install that bolt.

MPD47

I ran without it for years with no ill-effects and we all know what my car goes through.

lart951

The speed force racing 3" down pipe doesn't have that tab, I ran my car like that for over 3 years no exploding turbo for me.

Mike1982

This is VERY intersting info here considering I just replaced my turbo and did NOT put that bolt back in.

cheetah chrome

I cut it off....made lining everything up easy once it was off (ie getting gasket, oring, MM bracket-->turbo bolts started by yourself).

billthe3

Cool, thanks for the info everyone. It sounds like I'll go the stud route.

I actually am somewhat glad I took the turbo back out, because I had installed the AOS heatshield and intake support bracket before putting the turbo back in, so the head of the bolt was forcing the turbo away from the block. It probably would have been hell on the base of the turbo after a while.

I think I forgot about the flange on the downpipe because both of the bolts that hold the heatshield/bracket in place fit in and were not too long, even though I wasn't using the extra width of the downpipe flange.


Anybody have a recomendation for what length of stud to get? And I assume the thread is 8x1.25 pitch?

AlexE

3 years since cutting it off.

No ill effects.

Tom M'Guinn

7 years with no bolt and running strong...

billthe3

I realized that the having the bolt in and pushing the mounting tab away from the block is what was causing the issue with my crossover not lining up. The bolt was making it off by a good 1/2in or so.

But anyway, I got a stud, and am going to use that.

hosrom_951

Just put back everything today, and i am going to install that bolt.

Reasons because it holds the AOS heat shield, and i dont wish to have any rattles from it (incase the other one backs out), and for a piece of mind.

That SFR and LR downpipe is probably 1/3 lighter in weight than the factory one??