eniac

This is what I did on mine:

FRporscheman

I was helping Roger today (well, yesterday) with this problem. Those black-painted parts look like the things we bought from home depot today. The threads on the fittings we bought are some SAE pitch but it is very close to the metric pitch needed. We tried it and it threads in but you can feel it's not 100% perfect.

Also the fittings are slightly flared, so they get tougher to turn as they go in... I'm not sure if this is good or bad.

eniac

The threads are a standard NPT thread, not metric. The brass fittings are supposed to be slightly tapered, this is how they make the seal. As you can see I removed the stock pipe completely and rerouted the coolant hoses to run under the turbo outlet. Also after 5 different turbos my stock pipe had been looking quite cobbled from multiple bends.

I painted the brass parts as they tend to corrode after a couple years.

The great part about these NPT fittings is that your options from any local hardware store are pretty much limitless.

FRporscheman

I tried holding the old banjo bolt against one of the brass fittings and the threads didn't line up perfectly. It was close though.

Is that temp sensor on that stock pipe needed, or can we nix it?

eniac

If your using the electric turbo water pump then you will want to keep that sensor. I replaced mine with a smaller aftermarket one.

MichelleJD

I think I got mine at Farm&Fleet - standard NPT IIRC.

billthe3

First, when I was looking at my plumbing pieces they were all machine threads that did not flare or taper.

Second, as already said, the temp switch (sensor) controls the turbo's electric water pump, so it is needed. Though I suppose you could just ground the wire out and have the pump always running (read: even when car is turned off) if you wanted to get rid of the sensor.

FRporscheman

OK I'm off to give it a shot today. If all you people say the Home Depot pieces will work then I'll just use them.

I'm about to leave home and go to Roger's house, like 70 miles away, to work on his car while he's out of town. Before I go over there I need to know what size hose to buy for his turbo inlet. It's a LR super 61. Does anyone know what the outer diameter of that turbo is? Also, I forget what the turbo inlet connects to (I'm not a 951 guy). Whatever that is, I need to know the outer diameter of that too. I need to go buy a silicone hose for the turbo inlet.

MPD47

Here was my solution when my turbo was in the stock location:

Brass fittings with a piece of preformed hose to keep it under the turbo, sorry for the horrible photo but you get the idea.

Bri Bro

Anyone run into this problem?

I was moving the water pipe today and tried to use some 3/8 NTP adapters. The one I found didn't have a large taper and it would not thread into the Turbo. I looked at PET and the hollow bolt for the water line to the Turbo is an M16x1.5. The 3/8 NTP threads are the same pitch, but a little over 1mm larger in diameter. I am going to use a M16 die on the 3/8 pipe tomorrow, that should allow it to properly seat into the Turbo. I am sure that the fitting in the pictures that were 3/8 NTP had a little more taper then I had, but I bet they didn't screw in very deep.

I am sure the hollow bolt will thread into a 3/8 NTP but I will be using a good layer of teflon tape or Locktite 574 on make up the difference in diameter.

eniac

Mine threaded in about halfway(half of the threaded area), as you can see from the top pic. I could thread it in farther but it has a nice snug fit that doesn't leak so know reason to stress it. Of all the fittings, the only peice that didn't thread in very far was the aftermarket temp sensor.

Bri Bro

You must have had tapered threads, a straight 3/8 NPT is a little too big to fit into the turbo.

I went with the suggestion of using two 3/8 brass NPT 90 degree fitting, male on one end, female on the other. I used a M16 x 1.5 die to cut half way into the male threads. This allowed the fitting to screw into the Turbo with no resistance. The advantage of the double 90 degree fitting is that you have a lot of adjustment to the final position of the pipe. The last time I did this I had to cut and braze the pipe, not a fun job.

Search and Rennlist...This site is the best, thanks all.

billthe3

Here's what I ended up doing for mine.

When I updated the power steering lines so that the top hose has the direct connection instead of the banjo bolt, I ended up with the spare banjo bolt fitting that was the exact size of the one on the end of the turbo hard pipe. I ended up hacking the banjo bulb off the end of the hardpipe and then connected the two pieces with a section of rubber hose. I have no idea how long it will last, but it isn't leaking yet. The rubber hose makes the pipe flexible though, which makes adjusting its position to fit with the intake and turbo piping extremely easy.

I also got the smaller temp switch from napa which helped a lot with clearance.

MichelleJD

That's cool Bill!

Buckaroo Banzi

Do you have the part number for the smaller temp switch from NAPA?

thanks..

-BB