eniac

$152 plus a $70 core which I'm hoping they won't notice when I return my old alternator in it's place for the core deposit.

KuHL 951

Looks like you can get an Autolite rebuilt unit with Lifetime warranty for $149 at Kragen. Looks like a good swap as long as the pulley issue can be resolved. Smaller or not it's still pretty close to the turbo and I would feel better with some type of cooling shrouh or heat shield. The voltage reg is internal not exposed on the back like a 944 which might help some.

Ian Carr

ha, thats weird it looks exactly like mazda alternator. nice find

eniac

Compared to stock it's quite a bit forward from the turbo. Also this alternator has better cooling built into it. I beleive any type of cooling shroud would actually cause more heat by restricting airflow around it. You can see in some of the pics that the rear has very large heat sinks built inside. The stock alt needs that shroud and duct as it has a solid housing with no venting.

The factory shroud is not so much a heat shield as it is an air duct for proper airflow. It's just plastic, it doesn't get that hot there.

Acetylene

I'm not sure how else to say this, "You're da man". Very nice. I just installed my LR stage 2 MAF yesterday and was surpised how much the stock alternator is in the way.

Put the 6 rib pulley on that thing and test it out - we are all waiting for the resuls!

95ONE

More curious about the wiring.

eniac

Me too, lol. On the plug in the back, one wire should go to the switched power(small wire from stock alt) and the other wire would go to some sort of factory warning lamp which I can connect directly to the battery wire. The problem is that I have no idea which is which. I really need a wiring diagram from a Quest...or any Nissan for that matter. Once I know what the two connections are then the wiring is simple.

TRWright

You could have just used an alternator for a early 944 NA. It's a lot smaller-- I have one on my car.

eniac

How many amps is a N/A alt and what about the heat?

Mike1982

I am very interested in this as well, since I have everything out right now!

eniac

This is a bit more work then I initially planned on. I really haven't had any time this week to work on it but the main thing right now is lining up the stock pulley so it's exact with the crank and a/c. This would normally be a simple 1-day job but most of my shop equipment is 150miles away. One very nice thing is since this alternator has smaller mounting holes I simply tapped the holes for the old larger bolts. This way I don't have to worry about nuts on that back. I should have some new pictures up tonight.

Also I'm still confused on the wiring, any suggestions?

Zero10

I would look for a wiring diagram for a 97 nissan quest. Hopefully somebody here works at a shop and can pipe up. Also some alternator books list all of the descriptions for the connectors. Maybe hit up a local parts store or two, and have them pull out the book?

So, once you grind part of the tab away, and drill out the bolt holes, the pulley and everything lines right up? Or it needs some work to line it up? At the beginning it sounded like it would be perfect right away, now it sounds like it needs tweaking.

Please keep us all posted, since my stock alternator is on it's last legs (especially since it doesn't have the cooling duct on it) and I like this idea for replacement.

eniac

Yeah it's not an exact fit. As mentioned the lower portion of the mount needs to be ground down where the bottom of the alternator will be. This is because the alternator casing has a bolt right in that spot. I decided to use the stock pulley off the old alternator and see how that works. The shaft size is the same but to fit it back far enough I had to cut away a round portion that stick out about 1cm past the bearing. The new pulley was cut away for this to fit inside but I didn't want to cut into the original pulley as that would weaken it too much. Really all you need is a good grinding wheel, hand tools, and a drill to mount this...but it will take some work. Also since the fit is soooo close, different reman'd alternators may need more or less "fine tuning" to fit various 944's.

Tonight I am going on the search for a belt that's 2" shorter. If I find one I will be able to start it up and test that it's all working properly. I still don't know the wiring, tried a search online but found little info. I am pretty sure one cantact is for the switched power and the other is for the factory warming lamp. Either way both should have 12v power when the car is running. For my startup test I am simply going to connect both wires to 12v power. With the car running I will be able to figure out which should be switched power and which goes to the lamp(this one I will be connecting a jumper to the main power as it's not needed in a 944).

Btw, I love looking at it Seeing all that extra room now is a great feeling. This is something that has plagued me for many years. I can now easily access my steering shaft knuckle and heat shield, motor mount, turbo mount bolts, etc, from the top of the engine with the alternator in place.

Cory9584

Even though i have an ac delete i may still have to try this for further weight savings

Cory9584

Do you know how much it weighs? Im thinking of doing the same but want to know if its worth it.