billthe3

Was installing my LR 2-piece cross over last night, but made the mistake of bolting the headers down first before connecting up the up-pipe side. When I went over to connect the v-band clamp, the to pieces of the crossover were maybe a 1/2in off from each other. Tightening down the v-band clamp helped straighten the two pieces out, but they are still maybe 1/4in out of alignment.

With the copper ring between the pipes, will they still be sealed effectively? Or should I loosen both sides of the crossover to get all the pieces lined up correctly?



On another exhaust related note:
The stock downpipe has that stupid flange piece with a bolt hole that lines up with one of the bolts that holds on the OAS heat shield/rear intake support. Does it matter if the downpipe is bolted down here?

Dave951

Most people choose not to put the bolt back in the rear support on the downpipe because its a pain. I removed mine and everything seems to be just fine.

As for getting your exhaust lined up sometimes its better to be safe than sorry.

Keithr726

Sounds like that car is close to completion? So whats the list of parts/mods so far?

billthe3

Its almost close, but I doubt it will be complete till I get back from vacation in mid/late august.

I had one of the fuel rail mounting bolts snap off in the cam housing, so I'm having a bitch of a time drilling that out, and then I'm having issues with the temp sensor/coolant water pipe on the turbo. Also still have to figure out what I'm going to end up doing with the intake (the lindsey MAF I currently have but would need to make custom bracketry for, or a scivision).

Basically it'll be rebuilt head with LR's stiffer valve springs, o-rings, 27/6, mbc, tial 38, gutted cat, and then whatever MAF I end up running. Not sure what PSI I'll run, but figure at least the high teens with the stiffer springs and o-ringed head. Need to get a wideband and an adjustable fpr before I go too crazy with that.
Also did weltmeister short shift, stainless steel brake lines, new clutch master and slave cylinder, venturi delete, maxtune/maxtronic, cleaned all electrical connections, boost gauge, sport seats, stereo, etc, etc.

So, considering that the car I was driving around for 4months last year was a stock 86 951 with only a LBE and a blown headgasket, as well as a not-functioning clutch due to bad cylinders, I figure it'll be like driving an entirely different car. I'm almost debating doing suspension work before I start driving the car again just so it would be completely different (I already have the stuff for the paragon coilover conversion in my garage, would just need to order the new rear torsion bars). Oh, I also have a racing dynamics strut brace and a set of adjustable strut mounts, but I'm waiting to put those in till I do the struts.

Keithr726

Yup thats not cool, I'm taking mine off soon to send my injectors to be cleaned.


You have been busy. I bet you had no idea how much time and money you were going to put into that car in one year when you bought it. So a k27/6, those are in my opinion the best for a street driven 951. As for the MAFs, I think the scivision is a reliable product but will it be able to handle the big turbo? What did you do for injectors? I too am looking into widebands, I like the zeitronix features fun I'm leaning toward a AEM 4100 because it fits in my gauge pod.

billthe3

Still have the stock injectors, which were sitting in a plastic bag with all the other intake/fuel rail hardware for several months, so I'm hoping they'll still work. Got a reseal kit for them as well.

I'm thinking I'm going to do one of the round gauge widebands as well. The zeitronix is cool, but finding a good stock looking mount for it would be a pita.

Roger/Andial951 has a scivision and was doing 300whp before his headgasket went and I bought the 27 from him, so it should be fine. The recent scivision threads say they're good for something like 360-380hp. The only reason I'd go with one of them instead of the LR one is that the LR one is a 3.5" diameter, so I'm going to have to get some reducers and make my own bracket mount so it will work with the rest of the stock 3" intake pieces. But the scivision would cost another $400 assuming I sold the LR one for $300, so I'm not really digging that too much.