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Old 07-21-2007, 01:19 AM
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Turbodan
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Default aftermarket headers

who makes a good prefer stainless steel header for 951's and how much? I am in need of headers since my stock ones have been welded and are leaking again...also need crossover pipe. any help is appreciated
Old 07-21-2007, 01:24 AM
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SFR makes a nice set, either stage 1 or stage 2:

Stage 1

Stage 2


Rogue
Old 07-21-2007, 02:17 AM
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Lindsey Racing has some nice ones now too. No affiliation yada yada.
Old 07-21-2007, 04:42 PM
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TRP951
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the SFR have a sale on now I beleive you can get the stage1 321ss for the same price as the 304ss
Old 07-21-2007, 04:59 PM
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thanx guys
Old 07-21-2007, 09:04 PM
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Keithr726
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Since nobody else has said it, B&B also makes some.
Old 07-21-2007, 09:45 PM
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just checked the sfr website. $1000 for a set of headers is more than I was thinking it would cost. A local guy here welds them and puts expansion joints on for $250. Mine are leaking now.
Old 07-21-2007, 10:41 PM
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tman
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I'm thinking about getting the LR headers, looks like a quality product. $ 895.00 is not cheap but less than some others.
Old 07-22-2007, 10:13 AM
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If i were to throw down $1000 on exhaust headers, i would go for the LR ones for a few reasons:

- No welds on the runners themselves, true one piece thus eliminating bad welds/cracks.
- All flanges (1,2,3 & 4) are welded on a 'plate' and each other, thus installing and removing the headers as a unit.
- Everything been designed to eliminate cracking and warping from welds/flanges.

I mean the SFR stage 1 headers are $100 more expensive, and in the rear world, if you are going to spend over $900 on a set of after market headers, the $100 difference really doesn't make a difference.

By looking at the LR headers, it should flow better and survive longer than the other headers out there. In terms of flow, a dyno of before and after would tell, but reliability is not realistically proven since the factory headers are now hitting 20+ years, and no after market header was installed and run for that long.

No vendor bashing, not supporting one vendor over another, but my money would go on the LR unit.
Old 07-22-2007, 04:42 PM
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TRP951
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not trying to argue with you hos but I think the SFR come with a lifetime warranty on cracking but that might just be the stg2
Old 07-24-2007, 02:05 AM
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TonyG
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Hey Hussam...

I have to disagree on a few of the points:


>>>No welds on the runners themselves, true one piece thus eliminating bad welds/cracks.<<<

Sounds good, but the deal is that if you have a good TIG weld, it's not ever going to leak from the joint.

>>>All flanges (1,2,3 & 4) are welded on a 'plate' and each other, thus installing and removing the headers as a unit.<<<

This is actually bad. "single plate" flanges do not allow the header to expand and contract (move) like it needs to. This makes more prone to cracking.

The point you missed was that SFR uses professionally designed collectors (2) where the primaries go two into one, where the Lindsey one as well as the B&B do not. Big difference.

>>>By looking at the LR headers, it should flow better and survive longer than the other headers out there.<<<

If they are made out of 304SS, they will crack. It's just a question of when. 321SS is the only way to go. See my point above about properly designed collectors.

Considering that the Lindsey, B&B, and SFR pieces are relatively close in price, the best be would be to use the SFR. Their design and materials are the best of the three.

TonyG
Old 07-24-2007, 04:05 AM
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Who says LR's "Stock Replacement Headers" were not professionally designed?

I for one can guarantee Mike and Dave didn't design these themselves even though Mike is a pretty good fabricator and they were not put together by the local discount muffler shop guy either. And yes they addressed concerns of; expansion, temperatures and pressures in a turbo application, the aluminum head, collector efficiency, exhaust pulses, and increasing flow by reducing the bends as much as possible. As for the ease of installation the one piece head end flange makes putting the headers on the studs a whole bunch easier. If you don't like that they will cut the flange between the runners for you. After all, they are not meant to be the end all, be all, equal length headers, they are meant to be an affordable stock replacement improving on the stock manifold by taking advantage of modern one piece runner design.

I am not trying to bash SFR, and honestly when I found my stock headers were cracked at the welds and leaking I was planning to put SFR stage one headers on my 2.8 liter build. But when I saw the first prototype of the LR headers I held off my build to include them. To me, comparing the SFR stage one to the LR the SFR looks like welded together bits and pieces of tubing and elbows and LR looks professionally designed.

I honestly don't know 100% if the LR headers make power, suck power, or even whether or not they are going to crack and start leaking, what I do know is they were designed by an experienced header manufacturer to be better than stock, they sure am purdy ta look at, and they do make my car sound better.
Old 07-24-2007, 07:43 AM
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I really respect all the vendors products and looked at each before buying my SFR stage 1 headers. When I went down to Tim's shop, he let me look at the materials he uses and inspect the merge collectors that go into his stage 1 headers. I like Tim's products because of the quality and craftsmanship that goes in to each piece. Not saying anything about lindsey as I have some of their products, too. I ended up using the SFR headers and am very happy with them. In all honesty you can't really go wrong, whoever you choose. You're getting a top quality product either way.

-Darwin
Old 07-24-2007, 10:09 AM
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pk951
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Turbodan

There is a guy in Kingston who builds headers for all makes maybe you have heard of him I had the link but can't find it .
Old 07-24-2007, 11:12 AM
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was it Markus Blazsak? I was talking to him at Mosport this weekend and he puts expansion joints on for $250 cdn and he says that he has never had a header he couldn't fix. My headers have been fixed already and are cracking again. The labour to re and re is a bitch so I only want to do it once in the next few years and would like to keep the cost down. I am not sure what I am going to do.


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