eniac

So you mean the cells would change 500 RPM late or that while driving the displayed RPM was off by 500? I have RPM displayed on my AVC-R and my Link, both show about 100 RPM less then the tach but match up with each other at any speed.

eniac

I recieved your pm and will reply . I do plan on using this to tune my Link but am waiting to get my MAX chip in the mail and a couple other things set before I crank my boost back up again to tune it.

The only stumble I have at the moment is right when it swichtes from negative manifold pressure to possitive, not just from idle but while cruising also. As long as I take off from a stop with >0 pressure then I don't get the stumble.

TurboTim

When reviewing the datalog on the dyno,it would show a rich or lean spot at say 5000 rpms.When you went into the LINK AFM and made the adjustment at the same 5000 rpm as the datlog,it would have an effect on the AFR at 5500 rpms and not at the 5000 rpms where you made the change.

special tool

That is EXACTLY what happened to me.
It makes you "chase" it - and you never catch up.

OZ951

It can be tuned better than that. The hesitation I had was a momentary pause after applying throttle in 1st gear. It seemed to me that it needed a throttle pump adjustment.

OZ951

This dyno chart was one of mine with the link AFM.

special tool

yes - oz - that is probably the best tune possible wth that setup and stll the afr is horrble.
the worst part is that because the transferfunction in the motronic is a cluster****, you cannot change the boost at all without retuning.
this is because the motronic has no clue what to do with timing.

m42racer

You have to be sure you are in the center of the cell or zone, both MAP and RPM, otherwise it can change the surrounding sites. The software knows exactly where you are and interpolates which site to change the most. If you are towards one side, Top or bottom, the site you are in may not be changed as much as the one next to it. This is the way interpolation works here I think.

I know the problem, not the solution here. With that Hand held module, there is not way of telling where in the site you are. The only way is to know before the MAP and RPM values you must be at before changing. Try to get the RPM and MAP values to be equal to the center of that site, then make the change. Holding the engine there is difficuit for sure. With a little practice, I'm sure it can be done.

OZ951

Yes, and a large part of the reason to go to stand alone.

Rogue_Ant

How do we get around the transferfunction 'cluster****''?


Rogue

badcoupe

I used mine with pretty good luck, took a few a days to get a handle on it but I never had the stumble problem as most people did, not sure why. I sent several maps to danno back in those days etc. and got a few better chipsets burned for my time. I did go 12.3 at the strip with one and a 60-63 turbo. I like my vitesse better now, but I still have my wholemap setup boxed up somewhere around here. I considered trying to make it work on the turbo festiva I did for a guy!

cpt_koolbeenz

bacdoupe-
Do you have your settings saved in a file you could post up here?

OZ-
I think I have your settings file, but if you still have it, others may benefit.

I agree the Motronic is a huge problem... It is not nearly fast enough to handle the immediate transition in the AF signal. The stumble, I believe, is due to the delay the DME causes in the system. I can imagine the delay is due to cumbersome programming or maybe the processor is just flat out too slow. The i8051 doesn't seem like it would be unable to handle MAP based engine management. though...

eniac

I pretty much have know idea how to properly tune my Link but I'm slowly learning. Seeing some others settings would help to help me stay somewhat around the range I need to be in. I bought this MAP used and it was tuned for an '86 so I have no idea how far from default the current settings are. I just tossed it in my car and it worked. Now that I'm making some changes I need to retune it.

Has anyone tried using TPS accel mode rather then MAP? I read this is supposed to eliminate delays or dead spots.

Jake951

Try both modes. One might work better for you than the other. When I had the Link MAP, I found that MAP accel worked better for me at reducing flat spots, but be careful about adding too much acceleration enrichment. More than a few percent enrichment would cause my car to bog under acceleration. However, I could never totally eliminate flat spots at throttle tip-in, although they weren't too bad after tuning.

Also, I wouldn't try to duplicate anybody else's tuning maps. Everybody, including me, seemed to end up with very different settings.

cpt_koolbeenz

Yeah, you will have different settings, but the trends should be similar...