trackjunky

check the hose going to the top of the wastegate. If it's old, cracked or loose you could be getting an overboost condition.

reno928s

I'm siding with Adrial, I had a restricted banjo bolt installed without chips and the car was boosting at 17 psi. After a few minutes of driving it started to miss. I removed the spark plugs and the numbe two plug was disinigrated, no prong, no insulator all the way down. This was 12 yrs ago when I just sarted learning about boost and the price you pay. Reno

Neverendz

Just an update. I checked the banjo bolt and it is stock. However the line going to it was split open on the bottom. I believe this was more destruction from it over boosting. I repaired the line and still 20+ boost. I held it at 20 psi for about three seconds (three seconds is a long time) and there was no fuel cut out. So I believe the KLR is not doing it's job. I also checked the line from the CV to the wastgate and it appears okay. I want to remove it and inspect it when the car cools down.

Question: Can I use a hand vacuum pump, attach it to the wastegate listen to see if the there is movement? In other words could it be stuck shut? But if it were, I'd have boost always. . . ? Any good ways to disable the turbo? I'm going to read up on this stuff. . .


Again, any help is greatly appreciated.

, Bill

2bridges

Bill
a sincere piece of advice to you my friend. As you work through this issue if it get s to 15psi - lift out of the throttle and limp it back home to continue troubleshooting.

letting it run to 20 psi is too much. If you have not already, you will do damage. Consider most cars setup to run 20 psi (chips, fuel system, etc) don't run pump gas without additive.

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next steps
If I were in your shoes - I would next look at the wastegate. Try a vac pump on the hose and see if it is even holding vaccum. If so next need to check that the valve (in wastgate) is moving. If unable to do on the car - remove and bench test wastgate to confirm it is opening.

If you determine WG is bad or want to try a known good unit, I have on from an 80K mile 951. Removed few weeks ago and known good. No broken studs - PM for price

Neverendz

2bridges,

Thanks for the advice. I'll keep down to 3/4 throttle, 15 psi boost. I'll let you know how it goes with the wastegate. I'll be pretty busy the next few days, probably get to it on Monday. I'm still curious as to why the KLR doesn't just shut it down though. . . I tapped my boost gauge in right before the KLR to see what it sees. I need to find out if the KLR cuts off fuel because of excessive boost or if it reads the knock sensor hammering. In that case, if my knock sensor is bad it'll never cut off.

Thanks again.

, Bill

Neverendz

Okay, I checked the wastegate actuator by applying 8 psi of pressure to the line. The wastegate would not open.

I pulled the wastegate out this morning, and yes, it was quite stuck. I removed the valve from the actuator and it was all carboned up. It was a pretty easy clean up and now is smooth. However, I broke off all four bolts that retain the bypass pipe. . . I should be able to heat them and twist them out. That's tomorrow or Monday

Thanks again for the help peoples!

, Bill

2bridges

glad you got it figured out.

Best of luck , sometimes the brokem WG studs can be a real dirty *****.

If you end up needing a WG let me know.

Neverendz

Okay, I wound up drilling out the bolts and using stainless nuts and bolts. Got everything together, road tested it and. . . Still 20+ PSI OF BOOST! ! !

So I hooked up 9 psi of pressure to the wastegate actuator and drove it. Still high boost.

I checked the down pipe with pressure applied and it was warm.

I removed the down pipe and the wastegate is working.

I put a fish tape down into the exhaust and it felt blocked at where the small catalyst is.

I put my reversed shop vac onto the pipe to see if I could get air out of the tailpipe. Nothing.

I am assuming that the small catalyst is clogged. I originally thought that this was just a small resonator/muffler, but I read that it was a small catalyst.

So I broke 2 out of the three studs while attempting to remove the exhaust. No surprise there.

I'll be pulling out the turbo now because I have to replace the studs.

Looks like next week for this. . .

Thanks.

, Bill

2bridges

That is a bummer. Keep after it.

Don't forget to get gaskets/seals ordered up so when you are ready to do it you have the parts.

If in your shoes - i would cut out plugged little resonator/catalyst and sleve it.

Neverendz

Thanks for the support.

I just want to take the assembly off and gut it out. Gut the converter as well. It's 20 yrs old, doesn't work anymore, and is more than likely partially plugged up.

I could put a "test pipe" in there but that just costs money and visually it doesn't look "official". Plus gutting is always fun!

I'm going to order parts after it's torn down. . . I always forget at least five things

Thanks again.

, Bill

nize

you did this on an all-stock car?

i would be surprised if you didn't just cause some serious engine damage.

Neverendz

Wow. Next week turned onto two months. I've got other projects going on and, well you know.

Anywho, today I pulled down the converter and yes that downpipe from the wastegate does have it's own little converter. And boy is it clogged!

I'll get it cleared out tomorrow. (But don't hold me to that)

, Bill

toddk911

Just cut the WG pipe.

nize

yeah !

Neverendz

Ooooh. What does that sound like?

, Bill