KuHL 951

That's the same info I've seen in some research I did. The new Mobil 1 does not have the same 'shear' qualities and detergent levels of the previous Mobil brand before the Exxon merger. I've been using the VR-1 Racing in 20-50W for about 18 months in the 951. Mobil 1 is still very good as many oils are. I have not noticed any reduction in hi-temp viscosity so far and I get the Valvoline for about 1/2 the price of the Mobil 1 or less. The one issue that made me change from is Mobil 1 is only available in 15-50W and it's too damn hot here in the Summer; the 15-50W definitely thinned out more under hard use in hot weather than the Valvoline. I'm sure both products are fine, but I feel better about dumping the lower priced oil every 5K miles.

We all deal with this issue in our own way and I feel it's always best to do your own homework rather than listen only to idiots like me.

lejams

Funny how Australia Max has more ZDDP than what is sold in the US.

http://www.valvoline.com/products/Maxlife.pdf
http://www.valvoline.com/products/VR...otor%20Oil.pdf

Low levels of ZDDP, (anti-scuffing agent) are causing failures and premature wear in all sorts of engines. It's been reduced because it's hard on CATs, emissions, and manufactures like/want us to buy their expensive replacement parts. With all of the scored piston walls you read about on this board alone, (detonation issues aside) adequate ZDDP is a must. Many people here preach/run synthetic, but these oils weren't around when our cars were developed. I'm in the camp that pre 993 engines are better off using Dino because they weren't developed around synthetics. Adequate ZDDP was however in most oils back in that day and that was a good thing.

shaheed

jim, what's your recommendation for adequate levels of ZDDP?

lejams

I've read .11 to .14

Too much of a good thing is bad too.

LFA951

I'm gonna try the VR1 since it has more ZDDP...

ehall

That's simply retarded.
There is actually a reason that they chose that name. Perhaps you should figure it out.
The additives used in the oil are there to help stop leaks the wrong way. Eventually they will build sludge, just like all of those sanke oil sealants.

I noticed that you said that you tightened your oil pan bolts, then changed the oil and now it leaks less. Now think with me (I know that's tough for you) could it possibly be that the proper tightening of the oil pan is creating a better seal, or is it your "magic" oil.

Of course you are the guy who first came here telling anyone who would listen that AMSOIL was the ONLY oil worth a crap. lol

blodstrupmoen

Paraffin based dino oils has better additive binding qualities than synthetic oil . This would help hold the viscosity up in critical areas.

Btw: I just talked to a friend of mine whom is very knownledgable when it comes to oil , additives, chemical and molecular structures .

He said that last track day he saw a oil temp of 150deg C (302deg F ) in his 951 but still had 4Bar of oil pressure down the straights . Knowing his oil would have no problem operating at this temperature and showing that it would be viscosity stable at these temps.
This is a 400whp/550nm car with only stock oil cooler.

FSAEracer03

Hahaha... disregard any and all previous statements about MaxLife from this thread.

I just realized that I am completely full of ****. It's not MaxLife I use... it's Valvoline DuraBlend (which is a synth/dino mix). Hahahaha. Whoops.

LFA951

If you recall correctly, I said Amsoil was the best synthetic out there, that hasn't changed, it is and the bolt tightening had minimal effect on the gasket, so yes, the Maxlife oil is the reason for less leakage....

333pg333

Anders, at what stage in our original owners manuals did it say to use only synthetic oils? Never, as they didn't have them then. Firstly there is no such thing as a totally synthetic oil at our level of engines, and secondly oil is in our engines to do more than be slippery a.k.a. lubricate. It is there to act as a suspension or shock absorbing property between all the fast moving expensive bits of metal that are trying their hardest to smash each other into oblivion. The lower visc. the grade of oil the more likely it is to heat up and get too thin and allow just that to happen. Look at all the people who have had their motors blow up on this and other forums and do a poll of how many of them were running things like M1 'synth' low visc oils. Most won't admit it even to themselves as it's easy to be caught up in the advertising propaganda of billion dollar campaigns, but our cars don't like low visc. 'synth' oils. Porsche themselves used straight 50w oil in their race cars for years, and from another brand than the one that emblazoned their cars.

LFA951

Actually, that statement is incorrect, Amsoil was the first synthetic oil ever made back in March of 1972, over a decade before the 951 was first introduced, so synthetics were out there, just not readily available or as popular as they are today...

KuHL 951

Actually you are incorrect also.

The first 'commercial' synthetic oil was introduced by All-Proof in 1970, the French Company Motul in 1971, Amsoil in 72, followed by Mobil 1 in 74. No matter when it was made no one is arguing that Amsoil isn't a great product. Personally I feel Amsoil is nothing more than a great product but unfortunately sold under the despicable practice called network marketing. I do not want to join a 'club' od dealers just to buy it for less than $7.

From all of the heated opinions and angst concerning oil preferences here you would think people were roasting babies or something.

333pg333

.....so what oil does he use??

333pg333

Ok so they were around, but the cars were not designed to run them and very few people used them back then in terms of ratio of sales. I imagine that they were pretty expensive when first released by comparison to the oil of the day?

cpt_koolbeenz

Oh, that reminds me, I gotta turn mine... Don't want it to get too done on one side!