PCinDC

I made about 75 hardware kits using grade 8 steel studs with inset allen heads and copper coated locking nuts and haven't had a problem reported. Sharky, if you are in need of a bulk source for the copper nuts or any other metric hardware let me know.

With respect to Torx head studs, unless you are using the proper tool, a torx socket, I would expect most of these to be damaged during removal after a number of heat cycles. This is why I went with the inset allen head studs in the first place.

sharky47

Just some kind of copper-based paste - the past will burn away, but the copper flakes should stay imbedded in the threads - that's what I did.

Here's the thing about the too pocket in my studs - there is only so much you can do here because of space constraints. I picked the size I did to have a combination of tool size and sidewall thickness. One without the other is usless...........I did make them deep to help compensate.

Also, alot of the time - at least in my experience - the stud comes out with the nut still on it. The broached end makes it fast and easy to seperate the two for reinstallation.

But yeah - I would really encourage you to try the studs with the proper factory nuts - that is the way I wish people would go. The "copper" ones are just so cheap and not having to use a washer is nice too. It's just that they ARE NOT copper, they are some kind of soft stainless underneath.

PCinDC

FWIW my hardware contact said that all 'copper' nuts are actually just copper coated, and that the softness of the steel underneath the coating helps them grab (hence the all-metal lock). The copper coating helps them resist corrosion, nothing more..

sharky47

Yeah, the problem with the ones Paragon sells is that they are deformed quite a bit to lock themselves. If people would use the nice factory ones it wouldn't be a problem - but I know that they are expensive!

I am just going to come up with a fastener that works correctly and is cheaper than factory - then it won't be an issue.

PCinDC

You mean like a full kit that replaces every nut bolt and stud in the exhaust system for $60?

KuHL 951

Well I did use a quality new Torx socket but I think the rolled thread rather than cut thread like Sharkey's was the problem. There was much more friction on the installation than the stock BMW studs. That should have been a dead giveaway but I went ahead anyway thinking the head was good.

Cosmatics951

Am I the only one with a headache after reading this thread. Kudos to all for battling this problem though. The fate of many a rennlister's exhaust studs are in your hands. In your honor I will have a beer and pour a tiny bit out.

sharky47

Haha, no - it's just a matter of getting the correct combination of fasteners. The problem is, the current selection of correct nuts is limited and expensive. The reason I made stainless studs was to do away with the knuckle-busting rusted hardware in a tight spot syndrom. The studs on my personal car are almost a year old now and still look new with not a single flake of rust.

gregeast

No, I haven't tried removing them yet. Sounds like I'd better cross both set of fingers hoping I won't need to anytime soon...

billthe3

Why do people use the studs instead of replacing with bolts? Obviously bolts would be much harder to line up and install if you are doing headers without taking the head off and the engine is in the car, but aside from that it seems like they would be better to use?

billindenver

Far harder to line up, while looking around the cam housing, trying to line up headers that always need a bit of a stretch or compress to get lined up. Maybe my headers are further off than everyone elses, but I can't imagine using bolts. Wouldn't even try it.