gvr4111

I have been reading up on this board about suspension setup for awhile and decided which one to get. but I don't know which component to get first since I don't have not much disposable income this time around(priority is a motha) and also I still have to do some maintenace work on my car as well.

anyway here is list of suspension stuff that I decide to get.

-300-325lb coilover springs.
-28mm torsion bar
-968 30mm and 19mm sway bars
-968 caster block

I already have koni sport(adjustable) shocks in mine(non m030).

should I get the springs and torsion bar first or get the swaybars first. I'm planning on attending some DE event later this year(if I ever get around to it). I drive my car almost everyday so if you have similar setup please post up your feedback as well. or if you don't think I need/don't need some parts that I picked out.

tia

M758

Complete the maintenance first and do some DE's. Then decide if you want to do suspension.

That list right there is $1000 plus hours of work.

gvr4111

so you are telling me I should just hit the track first and see?

RKD in OKC

This is the order I did things when I was short on cash with my first 944 Turbo. It really taught me a lot about how to drive and the difference in suspention setup. This is NOT the best order for optimum handling as you upgrade. I did my upgrade in this order because my rear bars were shot and bottomed out on any acceleration.

Rear Torsion bars
Front Springs
Swaybars

To have the best handling as you upgrade...

Swaybars
Rear Torsion bars
Front Springs

HIGHBOOST

How much do the torsion bars run usually for 28mm?

TRACKIN951

I picked my 28mm bars up used for $150 here on the list. I did my koni's, tbars, and 275lb springs all at the same time! Was a great improvement. I bought the springs used and bought new threaded coils and collars from paragon for $80. For T-bars and coilovers= $300. Not bad if you can find the deals. Still dont have sways bars, im sure they would be nice but my car is on rails right now.

jerome951

If you're new to the track, learn to drive on a stock suspension. Will make you a better driver by forcing you to be smoother. If your budget is limited, spend your money on making sure the car is reliable and safe, and on having fun on the track.

Also, after you get some track time under your belt, your priorities may change. Instead of your car being a dual-use track/DD, you may decide to make it a dedicated track car, which means you're ripping out everything you just installed and upgrading. (BTDT)

333pg333

I agree with jerome here but would add that somewhere between stock setup and a trackrat there is light at the end of the tunnel. If you want to keep your car for the street also, you can still make it handle much better than stock. I realise that you may be on a budget, but the stock suspension becomes pretty bad, pretty quick on the track. I'm sure that there are plenty of basic upgrades that you can do without spending crazy money, or save up and do it right the first time. Problem is that you won't know what right is. Most of us would do things differently if we had our time again. So many mod's that we've done that wound up in the trash or being sold. Anyway you've got most things on your doorstep in the US...most that is...and cheap. You can get some very good suspension nowadays that allows you to have your cake and eat it too. That is, you don't have to have teeth shatteringly hard springs/shocks that make day to day driving way too uncomfortable. The only obstruction to this is money.

gvr4111

make sense. so basically 300lb & 28mm setup is not so great on the track(not that matter too much since I've never been to the track)? I have another car to drive as daily driver but I just like to drive the 951 so I'm driving it everyday. thanks for advise guys.

M758

Well it depends on your budget and goals.

I run 350 & 30's and find it great on track. However my car is 2450lbs (stock 951 is 2900 to 3000lbs) and is just wee little NA (131 hp at the wheels on a good day).

It will run circles around stock a 951 in the turns all day long.

So 300/28 is not bad as it all depends on what you want to get out of the car. There is no ideal track set-up since there will always be compromises somewhere along the way. This is one reason we suggest tracking it stock for a little while. With some track days under your belt you can begin to understand what you may want to do.

TRACKIN951

28mm and 300lb springs are a great compromise for street and DE use. My car was faster than many out at sebring. I could see 30mm tbars being waaay to harsh for the street. Since you have koni's already, make sure you have some good tires and brake pads then go tear it up!

Waterguy

My wife and I tour in my car, which is running 300 lb springs. It's not bad on smoother roads, but not great on rough roads. You can turn down the strut damping for the street, which helps a lot. Just remember that all the stiffer rubber bushings you may do (camber plates, 968 caster blocks, spring plate bushings) add significantly to harshness and noise/vibration on the street.

I like your list, with two exceptions. Have driven, ridden in, autocrossed against and done DEs with 951s with 250#/28 mm and 300#/28 mm spring/torsion bar set-ups, I really believe that 275#/28 mm is the best balanced set-up. If you want to go stiffer, I would recommend 325#/29 mm or 375#/30 mm combinations as the most neutral balance. Second, I would not replace torsion bars without replacing or upgrading spring plate bushings. Stock bushings get pounded out of round and won't hold an alignment after 100k miles. At the very least get new stock bushings, although after watching my brother install Elephant Racing bushings I would HIGHLY recommend going that route.

2bridges

X2 waterguy

think you will find the 28mm bar to be light with a 300 or 325 front sprng

I am running 325front with 29 t-bars - balance feels real good. no real track time on setup but rear is substancially softer than front.

This setup with konis on soft setting is definately not too harsh on street. Firm and a bit choppy on real rough stretches but not a kidney buster. Streets don't get much worse than where I live. I can't see this being to rough for anyone unles you are a real candy-***. Wife may not exactly love it, but should definately be tolerable.

On the other hand - with set to full hard is a whole different deal - pretty rough. Somthing to keep in mind as you consider non adjustable setups. To this point I am real happy with my choice

gvr4111

ok I will add spring plate bushing to my list when I tackle the torsion bar. I was really torn between 275lb & 28mm bar or 300lb &28mm.
For the brakepads, I was planning on getting pagid orange or sport.

another question is how much should I lower it? I'm not going for the looks that's for sure(no slamming).

thanks

2bridges

For bushings - may consider the old tested and true Weltmeister poly. They are reasoanble priced and if take the time to fit properly should last. No noise, no increase in harsheness. Axle located by rubber mounts seems to absorb any adittional road feel.... bet if you go solid there it would get abrasive