The Official Venturi Delete Thread
#31
Nordschleife Master
Just for clarification, if i am going with a manual boost controller and dual port wastegate...
1. I can delete the cycling valve, and also remove the three metal pipes completley?
2. Run one single 3/4 inch line from the AOS to the j-boot, and plug the bottom hole on the j-boot.
If i want to stop the slight smoke on boost, i have to get the late style hose with check valve that was on '89 and later cars (944.107.311.03), otherwise i can use generic 3/4 silicone (or rubber) hose?
Sorry if this is has been beat to death, but reading all of these diagrams and part #'s is driving me nuts!
1. I can delete the cycling valve, and also remove the three metal pipes completley?
2. Run one single 3/4 inch line from the AOS to the j-boot, and plug the bottom hole on the j-boot.
If i want to stop the slight smoke on boost, i have to get the late style hose with check valve that was on '89 and later cars (944.107.311.03), otherwise i can use generic 3/4 silicone (or rubber) hose?
Sorry if this is has been beat to death, but reading all of these diagrams and part #'s is driving me nuts!
#32
Rennlist Member
yeah delete the CV if you want to remove those 3 metal pipes you either need to replace the aos pipe with a rubber one or add a catch can which will also help with the blue smoke.
#33
The check valve on the AOS hose will not prevent smoking under boost, it's function is to pop open if the AOS hose ever gets clogged, giving the crackcase pressure somewhere to escape. So, even if it's not required, the factory thought it is a good idea for safety. If you decide to go with the checkvalve, make sure it is on the AOS side of the hose, because placing it on the j-boot side, renders the checkvalve useless.
#36
#37
#38
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
No, you do not need the check valve. However, having the check valve can be good over time because it prevents oil sludge/crap from building up in the metal control line pipe, which would then block off the OAS and make the car burn oil out the exhaust (or something like that...).
#40
Burning Brakes
Just to update this a bit. I found a hose at checker for $11.99 that replaces the ICV hose (951.110.217.01) (Picture #8 on the top of this post). I had to cut off 1 3/4" off of the end that attaches to the ICV and some off of the turbo intake side. (mine is modified so I cant say exactly what it would be for each of you but it is very easy.) This hose was just so close of a fit that I had to let you guys know to save a few $$$. It even bends arount the turbo to intercooler pipe and when adjusted just right it does not even touch on thing in the tight space.
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Last edited by Richgreenster; 10-31-2009 at 06:57 PM.
#41
Rennlist Member
Does anybody know what that factory restrictor in the hose (I think it's the hose between ISV and the intake) is for?
Those of you that are using venturi delete; are you retaining that restrictor?
It seems like it saves the ISV somewhat upon suddenly closing the throttle; or what else could it be?
Those of you that are using venturi delete; are you retaining that restrictor?
It seems like it saves the ISV somewhat upon suddenly closing the throttle; or what else could it be?
#42
Rennlist Member
I have a factory porsche ventury delete and there is no restrictor in mine. I bought mine 5 years ago from porsche. I am not sure why they have the restrictor on the newer ones.
#43
Rennlist Member
Well, if you have a venturi delete, factory or otherwise; that's probably why you don't have the restrictor.
I'm saying I have the original air routing, and I'm wondering why they put that restrictor in there.
I'm saying I have the original air routing, and I'm wondering why they put that restrictor in there.
#45
Professional Hoon
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Hey, i have a question that i havnt seen here yet.
i just did the venturi delete with the Lindsey Racing kit and folowed their diagrams (also its abit different then the stock set up) but the issue is when i turned my car on the idle was sitting at 2100 and when i took it for a drive, when i changed gears the car would pull abit with out me touching the accelerator. and when i let go it would take a few seconds longer to drop the revs. can anyone help me???
also i have the folowing mods:
- Tial 38mm dual port wastegate
- manual boost controller on 15 psi
- AFMLink piggy back (MAP Sensor)
Cheers, Paulyy
i just did the venturi delete with the Lindsey Racing kit and folowed their diagrams (also its abit different then the stock set up) but the issue is when i turned my car on the idle was sitting at 2100 and when i took it for a drive, when i changed gears the car would pull abit with out me touching the accelerator. and when i let go it would take a few seconds longer to drop the revs. can anyone help me???
also i have the folowing mods:
- Tial 38mm dual port wastegate
- manual boost controller on 15 psi
- AFMLink piggy back (MAP Sensor)
Cheers, Paulyy