Swapping in 200lb springs / confirming a few things
#16
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
OK - glad I asked! Seems like the verdict is that for street this setup would be fine but for DE's it will not meet my objective of being front/rear balanced.
I would greatly appreciate some first hand experience on good street / DE setups. Car will not be an every day driver - occasional and weekend driver.
Ball joints is an interesting observation - can someone clarify what the ball joint concerns are with lowered springs? Is it just geometry or can I also damage the joint itself.
I would greatly appreciate some first hand experience on good street / DE setups. Car will not be an every day driver - occasional and weekend driver.
Ball joints is an interesting observation - can someone clarify what the ball joint concerns are with lowered springs? Is it just geometry or can I also damage the joint itself.
#17
[QUOTE=Jeff N.]
good street / DE setups. Car will not be an every day driver - occasional and weekend driver.
QUOTE]
my car is same use and purpose you identify. NOT daily driver, but plenty of street use. I have mentioned bits and pieces, but here is my full suspension setup.
setup currently being installed:
944 M030 koni single adjustable front and rear
front 2.5" spring conversion w 325# hypercoil
rear 29mm torsion bars
front swaybar 30mm 968 m030
rear swaybar 22mm welt adjustable
I prefer a frim ride. chose koni to keep shock rebound reasonable for street(full soft) and still get away with a stiff spring. Also running 16" wheel/tire that will help "soften" some road harshness. That is plan underway. Will let you know how it all turns out.
good street / DE setups. Car will not be an every day driver - occasional and weekend driver.
QUOTE]
my car is same use and purpose you identify. NOT daily driver, but plenty of street use. I have mentioned bits and pieces, but here is my full suspension setup.
setup currently being installed:
944 M030 koni single adjustable front and rear
front 2.5" spring conversion w 325# hypercoil
rear 29mm torsion bars
front swaybar 30mm 968 m030
rear swaybar 22mm welt adjustable
I prefer a frim ride. chose koni to keep shock rebound reasonable for street(full soft) and still get away with a stiff spring. Also running 16" wheel/tire that will help "soften" some road harshness. That is plan underway. Will let you know how it all turns out.
#18
Seems like everyone is upgrading suspension for the spring. I too am doing this. All I have left to buy is the rear 27mm torsion bars. But.... Any advice on what kind of spread on the splines to help the install go faster? I do this thing all the time,(Suspensions, not torsion) but I STILL dread doing the torsion bar install over and over until I get the right height. I'm looking for about an inch gap from the top of the tire to the top of the fender arch. Anyone? Anyone?
#19
Clarks garage has a pretty good guide http://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/susp-06.htm Is a bit lengthy, but would suggest read through all
*ADDED*
Startng Point:
Clarks guide has suggested starting point for different size bars based on scribing a line and calculating difference in torsion travel - see clarks for details
to get to desired height on second try
- all figures from clarks doc, assumed accurate
NOTE
rotate inner one spline = 2.58" ride height change, 2splines =5.16, 3=7.74, 4=10.32
rotate outer one spline = 2.35" ride heigh change, 2=4.7, 3=7.05, 4=9.4
EXample - rotate plus one inner spline (+) and less one outer spline (-) = + .23" height change
Don't forget there is a specific left, and specific right bar. (stamped in large end of bar)
quickie table I threw together for my refrence
*ADDED*
Startng Point:
Clarks guide has suggested starting point for different size bars based on scribing a line and calculating difference in torsion travel - see clarks for details
to get to desired height on second try
- all figures from clarks doc, assumed accurate
NOTE
rotate inner one spline = 2.58" ride height change, 2splines =5.16, 3=7.74, 4=10.32
rotate outer one spline = 2.35" ride heigh change, 2=4.7, 3=7.05, 4=9.4
EXample - rotate plus one inner spline (+) and less one outer spline (-) = + .23" height change
Don't forget there is a specific left, and specific right bar. (stamped in large end of bar)
quickie table I threw together for my refrence
#21
Easy setup that seems to work very well
My settings here were just found through tinkering, but work extremely well with minimal cost and headaches. On my '86 I run 200lbs Weltmeisters with Konis turned up to about 3/4 stiff, stock front sway bar, and rear sway bar with stock torsion bar and koni rear shocks. I run 16X7's on the front and 16X8's on the rear (early offset). Cornering is very neutral with just a small hint of under steer. It rotates extremely well into the corners with just a small amount of initial under steer, and then dead even throughout. I drive it like I stole it and after 3 years (20,000 km) the front tires are showing a hint of outer wear, the rears nearly none. The key ingredient I found was going to the wider rears. Made all the difference in the world. I don't track, so for street use, ride and cornering are both as good as I need it to be.
#22
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Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Northeast, Unfortunately
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Don't put 200 springs on that car. You will be disappointed. If you are still driving it on the street, go straight to 300 Front. 28/29 rear T bars. Or at least 250-350 rear helpers. That's a good handling light DE but still street driven car. Ground Control, Paragon, Gaz or KW's.