Jeff N.

OK - glad I asked! Seems like the verdict is that for street this setup would be fine but for DE's it will not meet my objective of being front/rear balanced.

I would greatly appreciate some first hand experience on good street / DE setups. Car will not be an every day driver - occasional and weekend driver.

Ball joints is an interesting observation - can someone clarify what the ball joint concerns are with lowered springs? Is it just geometry or can I also damage the joint itself.

2bridges

[QUOTE=Jeff N.]
good street / DE setups. Car will not be an every day driver - occasional and weekend driver.
QUOTE]

my car is same use and purpose you identify. NOT daily driver, but plenty of street use. I have mentioned bits and pieces, but here is my full suspension setup.

setup currently being installed:
944 M030 koni single adjustable front and rear
front 2.5" spring conversion w 325# hypercoil
rear 29mm torsion bars

front swaybar 30mm 968 m030
rear swaybar 22mm welt adjustable

I prefer a frim ride. chose koni to keep shock rebound reasonable for street(full soft) and still get away with a stiff spring. Also running 16" wheel/tire that will help "soften" some road harshness. That is plan underway. Will let you know how it all turns out.

95ONE

Seems like everyone is upgrading suspension for the spring. I too am doing this. All I have left to buy is the rear 27mm torsion bars. But.... Any advice on what kind of spread on the splines to help the install go faster? I do this thing all the time,(Suspensions, not torsion) but I STILL dread doing the torsion bar install over and over until I get the right height. I'm looking for about an inch gap from the top of the tire to the top of the fender arch. Anyone? Anyone?

2bridges

Clarks garage has a pretty good guide http://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/susp-06.htm Is a bit lengthy, but would suggest read through all


*ADDED*
Startng Point:
Clarks guide has suggested starting point for different size bars based on scribing a line and calculating difference in torsion travel - see clarks for details

to get to desired height on second try
- all figures from clarks doc, assumed accurate

NOTE
rotate inner one spline = 2.58" ride height change, 2splines =5.16, 3=7.74, 4=10.32
rotate outer one spline = 2.35" ride heigh change, 2=4.7, 3=7.05, 4=9.4

EXample - rotate plus one inner spline (+) and less one outer spline (-) = + .23" height change


Don't forget there is a specific left, and specific right bar. (stamped in large end of bar)

quickie table I threw together for my refrence

95ONE

WOW. Thanks for that. I didn't know that Clarks went into that much detail. I also wasn't aware those bars are side specific. Extremely helpful.

Thank you!

Chriscanada

My settings here were just found through tinkering, but work extremely well with minimal cost and headaches. On my '86 I run 200lbs Weltmeisters with Konis turned up to about 3/4 stiff, stock front sway bar, and rear sway bar with stock torsion bar and koni rear shocks. I run 16X7's on the front and 16X8's on the rear (early offset). Cornering is very neutral with just a small hint of under steer. It rotates extremely well into the corners with just a small amount of initial under steer, and then dead even throughout. I drive it like I stole it and after 3 years (20,000 km) the front tires are showing a hint of outer wear, the rears nearly none. The key ingredient I found was going to the wider rears. Made all the difference in the world. I don't track, so for street use, ride and cornering are both as good as I need it to be.

Flea3

Don't put 200 springs on that car. You will be disappointed. If you are still driving it on the street, go straight to 300 Front. 28/29 rear T bars. Or at least 250-350 rear helpers. That's a good handling light DE but still street driven car. Ground Control, Paragon, Gaz or KW's.