I know these have a history of being a problem, but it was working fine since I bought it over a year ago. Anyway, took the panel off and found the lifting arms retracted and don't move. The console switch works the motor, but in only one direction. mmmm just thinking here.. could it be the switch? anyway of testing the switch? Thanks in advance for any advice and /or direction.

 

I'm trying to remember, but the switch is a simple up or down one like for the windows, correct? If you wanted to test the switch itself, you could try using one from the windows if the plug pattern is the same on the back. Or at least I would think you could...

 

I would start with these:

http://clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/body-03.htm
http://clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/elect-18.htm

 

Found out they are compatable Bill and can be switched , but it still didn't slove the problem. I checked with Clark's and it appears that there are directional relays neat the motor in back. Going to dive into it later today after work. I'll let you know. Thanks

 

Had the exact same problem with my car...turned out to be the sensor inside the sunroof. Look for a triangular shaped piece of plastic along the inside front edge of the roof - right in the middle. There is a sensor underneath this spot that measures the angle of the sunroof (whether up or down). If it doesn't register a signal, the sunroof motor does not work.

On my car, this sensor had become worn and was failing to make contact. It still worked just fine, just wasn't making contact anymore. Apply modest pressure to the plastic triangle (a fingertip works fine) while you hit the sunroof switch, and see what happens. If you have the same problem that I had, this will force the sensor to make contact and relieve the problem.

 

That tip from Ted sounds pretty good. Its true too that there are 2 relays right near the hatch motor. If you think the relay is bad, you could swap them and see if your symptoms change.

Having done this sort of electronic troubleshooting a bazillion times, I can tell you the problem will almost certainly be in THE MOST unaccessible place. My favorite is sitting in the seat, upside down with head looking up under the dash. Once you finally get into position to address whatever, one of two things will happen; the phone will ring or you'll realize that your flashlight, meter, screwdriver is on the workbench....;] Bruce

 

I had a problem like this, the micro-switch inbetween the sunvisors is there so that if you put the roof back on and start driving without raising the locking arms in the back, the switch will tell the motor to do so automatically once you start moving. it could be the switch but in my case it was the connection of the two relays in the trunk, so i just sprayed som WD40 in the slots and stuck the relays back in and that took care of it.

 

OT: F18rep, I use several of your tools. LOVE them. May contact you soon about proper use of the Krikit for belt tensioning.

 

I had the same problem on my old 944 NA. It's the plastic clutch that moves via the motor via the button (or so it sounds anyway). If your button is powering the motor, and it sounds like it's working, yet doesn't open, you need to replace the plastic clutch assembly that actually raises and lowers the roof. It's actually quite expensive , although I do not know the parts that are necessary - I had a shop do it. You might be lucky and it could be a connection problem, but if the motor is getting power and it isn't moving, logic would suggest it's the devise that works off of the motor to raise the roof (described to me as a "small, plastic clutch assembly"). Hope this helps!

 

turboted - you nailed it! I pushed on the triangle plate over the mirco-switch while pushing the console switch and it MOVED! Only it didn't go up all the way. Is there an adjustment for the range of motion? Thanks

 

Nice! Glad it worked (sort of, anyway). On my car, I have to hold constant pressure on the microsensor on the sunroof during the whole time I hit the switch to open/close the roof. If I let up on the sensor half way through the process, the motor quits. Constant, light, pressure on the micro sensor is key...at least in my car, anyway.