Maybe all this extra time waiting for parts to get back has me worried a little too much, but I have to ask this forum's opinion ...

The rear main seal I pulled a couple weeks ago was coated in rubber for the entire depth of the seal (the seal is ~1/2" deep).

The replacement seal (Victor Reinz) was only covered in rubber for ~half of that depth - so ~1/4" of rubber on the 'front' depth of the seal (the part that faces outwards from the engine ... i.e. the part you see when you pull the flywheel off). The 'rear' depth of the seal (i.e. the part that you don't see once the seal is installed) was only metal. I hope that makes sense.

I put the new seal in without thinking much about it at the time. Now the more I think about it, the more it concerns me (really don't want to have to rip everything apart again).

So, it it normal for some rear main seals to come coated only half-deep? Or should I be popping that one out and getting a new one? I notice tha Paragon Products sells 2 different types, the Victor Reinz and the Porsche OEM (looks like the OEM was the one I pulled out).

 

I replaced one recently on BlacknRedGT's car last year, sucky job.

I don't remember what it looked like, although he bought two at the time in case we buggered one up. I *think* I ended up with the spare, but who knows where it is.......

I think he bought it from Paragon or Lindsey........

 

All I can add is the reddish-brown seals are better than the black ones. I'm not sure who makes which one though. The black ones have been known to leak after very little service time.

 

I believe the one we used was the reddish one......

 

I installed a reddish one, but like I said, it's only coated to about 1/2 depth (not very much rubber seal where that notch is), The one I took out is reddish, but is coated all the way down. It appears the black ones are the Porsche OEM seal.

Here's a pic of the seal I installed - see how the rubber only goes half way down? Maybe I'm being paranoid ....

Sharky - I'll be placing an order for your sensor height tool soon, been meaning to for a while

 

I always rub a thin layer of Curil K2 on the outer edge before I install any oil seal that gets driven in. You'll be fine as long it's set to the right depth.

 

I second Steve's suggestion to use a thin layer of Curil K2. Great product !

 

I installed a seal like the one pictured above and made sure it was fully seated. It's staying dry so far, but it's only been about 3K miles. Use the old seal to tap the new one in, so you don't ruin the new seal. I didn't use any Curil sealant, but it's a good idea.

Tom
'87 951

 

I just went though this more times than I care to mention.

Call Jason @ Paragon and get the Elring seal. (see photo)

I would avoid the use of a Porsche OEM seal (black in color), the rubber is extra soft compared to the Victor Reinz and Elring seals.

Drive the seal in as straight as you possibly can. I used a tool made just for this - manufactured by SIR tools, purchased from Pelican.

Use a slight amount of Curil T around the outside diameter of the seal.

Depth should be just below the bevel machined into the block/girdle.

Cheers

 

VERY nice, tyro. I wish the back of my engine looked so pretty!!!

I used a thin layer of general purpose grease when installing the seal, to help it go in (I thought I remembered doing this with the balance-/crank-shaft seals). I've never heard of Curil T (which doesn't mean much) ... maybe I should get some of that and put it around the outer edge of the Victor Reinz seal I all ready have installed? My seal seems to be installed correctly, as in tyro's pic, fully seated and sitting just below the bevel.

I assume Paragon has the Curil T? Guess I'll be giving Jason a call .....

 

If you've already put the seal in, don't take it out.

In fact, you shouldn't be able to take it out without destroying it.

Just double check to make sure that the seal material on the OD goes in the bore BEYOND the little notch in the girdle.

As long as it's straight, beyond the notch and the gap looks even on the lip around the crank, you should be good.

 

The seal's definitely seated all the way in (just as in your pic). It looked like some of the seal material went beyond the notch, but it's hard to tell, and very close, hence my concern. It is defintely straight and seated all the way, though.

I was debating taking the Vitcor seal out (and destroying it in the process) and ordering/putting in an Elring since I'll be ordrering some if the Curil T, but now I'm thinking I'll just leave it in and put some of the Curil on it.

Thanks!!!!!

 

Is it okay to substitute Loctite Ultra Grey 599 RTV sealant for the Curil?? I already have it and will use it (sparsely - in the corners) on the oil pan I am replacing.