Rear Main Seal Install Depth
07-22-2007, 12:48 AM
#17
Race Car
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: TEXAS
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My tiny mistake.... Very small scratch.. Leaked. Sanded. It's fixed. +1 for don't scratch. Be careful when removing. Also distorted even with a little over zelous tap. Had to change out. I didn't even flinch. Once It went too far one way, I knew I had to change it. Has happened too many times. Tap Slowly and evenly around as many times as it takes to be gentle and accurate. Too much work to not take some time here.
07-23-2007, 01:59 AM
#18
Pro
Thread Starter
RMS no-leak checklist:
1. Elring seal (black outside, orange inner - available from EBS or Paragon).
2. Curil T for the seal OD from Pelican.
3. SIRTools oil seal arbor, P/N P234 from Pelican(see pic).
The seal sits just past flush when using this tool. I think the biggest part of a proper install is that the seal be driven straight in. No leaks on mine for 4k+ miles and two track days.
1. Elring seal (black outside, orange inner - available from EBS or Paragon).
2. Curil T for the seal OD from Pelican.
3. SIRTools oil seal arbor, P/N P234 from Pelican(see pic).
The seal sits just past flush when using this tool. I think the biggest part of a proper install is that the seal be driven straight in. No leaks on mine for 4k+ miles and two track days.
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Robocop305 (12-20-2020)
04-23-2009, 02:45 PM
#20
Rennlist Member
RMS no-leak checklist:
1. Elring seal (black outside, orange inner - available from EBS or Paragon).
2. Curil T for the seal OD from Pelican.
3. SIRTools oil seal arbor, P/N P234 from Pelican(see pic).
The seal sits just past flush when using this tool. I think the biggest part of a proper install is that the seal be driven straight in. No leaks on mine for 4k+ miles and two track days.
1. Elring seal (black outside, orange inner - available from EBS or Paragon).
2. Curil T for the seal OD from Pelican.
3. SIRTools oil seal arbor, P/N P234 from Pelican(see pic).
The seal sits just past flush when using this tool. I think the biggest part of a proper install is that the seal be driven straight in. No leaks on mine for 4k+ miles and two track days.
04-23-2009, 11:46 PM
#21
Rennlist Member
I bought that tool too and remember it didn't work quite right, but I did get it to work. It was quite a while ago now, but if I remember correctly I could only get 2 of the holes to line up or something like that. I also recall staring at it for a while to figure out how it worked, but eventually did. Possibly something like bolt the piece with the threaded rod to the crank (w/2 of the 3 holes) and then press the seal in by screwing the 'cap' onto the threaded rod. Hope that's enough to help you figure it out. And, I think Tyro is spot on with his advice!
