Broken boost gauge
#1
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Factory gauge is dead sitting all the way to the left no movement at all, so my question is what typically breaks or goes wrong in this situtition and what is the fix?
I tried doing a search for guage and boost gauge but those words are so common in this forum along with broken that the results are too numerous. I know the factory gauge is not terribly acurate and everyone says just get an aftermarket. The problem I have with that is I kinda feel once you allow things to be broken the car starts its decline from a great example to eventually a pile.
I tried clarks garage also but they have troubleshooting for every gauge but boost.
I tried doing a search for guage and boost gauge but those words are so common in this forum along with broken that the results are too numerous. I know the factory gauge is not terribly acurate and everyone says just get an aftermarket. The problem I have with that is I kinda feel once you allow things to be broken the car starts its decline from a great example to eventually a pile.
I tried clarks garage also but they have troubleshooting for every gauge but boost.
#3
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^^^ Do that first, then check the footwell to make sure it is still good there.
Next, pull cluster and clean contacts and grounds.
Pull boost gauge if you are feeling frisky...potential risk of damaging needle when you start plucking gauge faces.
(while cluster is out fix low light reflector problem)
You can probably get a used cluster from ebay pretty cheap, or a rennlister.
Replace whole thing, or just the boost gauge.
Third, realize you don't need it and buy aftermarket.
Remove and get new gauge face from NA ;
Next, pull cluster and clean contacts and grounds.
Pull boost gauge if you are feeling frisky...potential risk of damaging needle when you start plucking gauge faces.
(while cluster is out fix low light reflector problem)
You can probably get a used cluster from ebay pretty cheap, or a rennlister.
Replace whole thing, or just the boost gauge.
Third, realize you don't need it and buy aftermarket.
Remove and get new gauge face from NA ;
#4
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Originally Posted by testarossa_td
^^^ Do that first, then check the footwell to make sure it is still good there.
Next, pull cluster and clean contacts and grounds.
Pull boost gauge if you are feeling frisky...potential risk of damaging needle when you start plucking gauge faces.
(while cluster is out fix low light reflector problem)
You can probably get a used cluster from ebay pretty cheap, or a rennlister.
Replace whole thing, or just the boost gauge.
Third, realize you don't need it and buy aftermarket.
Remove and get new gauge face from NA ;
Next, pull cluster and clean contacts and grounds.
Pull boost gauge if you are feeling frisky...potential risk of damaging needle when you start plucking gauge faces.
(while cluster is out fix low light reflector problem)
You can probably get a used cluster from ebay pretty cheap, or a rennlister.
Replace whole thing, or just the boost gauge.
Third, realize you don't need it and buy aftermarket.
Remove and get new gauge face from NA ;
#5
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Probably not. I meant post 86. Flat without any additional mpg gauge.
But I am here to tell you, if I had one laying around I would go swap it right now and find out....I am that kind of crazy...just to find out![Wink](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
Ok, so I would probably start with a search on rennlist, then if I did not find an answer go out and do it.
But I am here to tell you, if I had one laying around I would go swap it right now and find out....I am that kind of crazy...just to find out
![Wink](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
Ok, so I would probably start with a search on rennlist, then if I did not find an answer go out and do it.
#7
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Its not the KLR line – if that were broken then you would see 1 bar all the time – you are showing vacuum
It is either the gauge its self or the connector down by the DME/KLR.
It is either the gauge its self or the connector down by the DME/KLR.