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Well if it isn't one thing, its another: Clutch not fully disengaging.

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Old 03-27-2007, 11:08 AM
  #31  
ivai
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Definitely is not specific to my clutch.. I ordered a regular old 951 throw out bearing. It just came with the collars/spring clip necessary to put it on the pressure plate. There is no fore/aft play on the throw out bearing.

By the way, where can I get a set of pink wheels like the one in that pic?
Old 03-27-2007, 11:17 AM
  #32  
hot-J
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Return the fidanza, reserface and lighten the stock steel flywheel, you saved $$ and have the clearaance you need, plus have a more durable steel flywheel.
Old 03-27-2007, 11:23 AM
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KuHL 951
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Originally Posted by ivai
Definitely is not specific to my clutch.. I ordered a regular old 951 throw out bearing. It just came with the collars/spring clip necessary to put it on the pressure plate. There is no fore/aft play on the throw out bearing.

By the way, where can I get a set of pink wheels like the one in that pic?

Pics I have seen show the NA TO kit to have 7 pieces total; the Turbo has 5 pieces. The pink wheels are off a Mary Kay 944 I think. Do you recall if your clutch fork contacts were worn down flush with the arms or could you still see the 'raised' contact pads?

Pic of assembled Cup with TO from old thread

Last edited by KuHL 951; 03-27-2007 at 11:38 AM.
Old 03-27-2007, 11:34 AM
  #34  
ivai
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Steve, the only parts that were "raised" were on the outside of where the throwout bearing was.. As in, the part on the arms that were actually touching the throwout bearing were lower.. I can't tell if they're worn, or if they're just machined. In my drawing below, the red lines indicate where its worn in compared to the surrounding blue -- should the red actually be raised?




hot-J, I've thought of that. Unfortunately, I can't return the fidanza at this point since its used. I suppose I could try to sell it.. I'll keep this open as an option.
Old 03-27-2007, 11:48 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by ivai
Steve, the only parts that were "raised" were on the outside of where the throwout bearing was.. As in, the part on the arms that were actually touching the throwout bearing were lower.. I can't tell if they're worn, or if they're just machined. In my drawing below, the red lines indicate where its worn in compared to the surrounding blue -- should the red actually be raised?
Yours sounds right. Just the very tips of the fork are raised slightly and will look polished after use. It's when the raised area gets flush with the arm you can have problems.
Old 03-27-2007, 11:54 AM
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ivai
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Actually, the polished-looking part is lower than the surrounding material, not raised. Maybe that's my issue... I'm trying to get a hold of someone at paragon to have them look at a new clutch fork and answer this for me definitively.
Old 03-27-2007, 02:26 PM
  #37  
KuHL 951
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Originally Posted by ivai
Actually, the polished-looking part is lower than the surrounding material, not raised. Maybe that's my issue... I'm trying to get a hold of someone at paragon to have them look at a new clutch fork and answer this for me definitively.
You are correct. The contact area is reliefed not raised. I was going from memory.
Old 04-01-2007, 12:32 AM
  #38  
ivai
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Update:

I got the Cup disc from Paragon, put it in, and the car drives/shifts fine.
Old 04-01-2007, 11:58 PM
  #39  
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So, just to recap, you're running Fidenza flywheel, cup disk, and KEP PP, correct?

Thanks for writing this up, Jeff!!!!!! As Imentioned earlier in this thread, I have the Fidenza, 930 disk, and KEP I PP, car fully torn apart, and was about to put all this on ... obviously not anymore. I think I'm going with a lightened stock flywheel, 930 disk, and the KEP. I'm debating going to the cup clutch too, just to be safe ... should be enough for me with the KEP.
Old 04-02-2007, 10:10 AM
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ivai
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Correct, I've got the Fidanza flywheel, cup disk, and KEP pp. I really really like the feel of the lightweight flywheel.



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