WTB #10 Turbine Housing.
#2
No - don't do this.
You will only get the bad, and none of the good.
The k27 is too small a compressor to necessitate a #10.
Your car will be slower. Probably MUCH slower - you will lose AT LEAST 300 RPM spoolup, and I believe you may not gain even 1 HP on top.
Don't waste time experimenting with the old kkk family of turbos that came on our cars. Its all been done before 10,000 times. The k27/8 is a decent compromise for what it is.
They were made for diesel trucks that have 20:1 compression to spin them in the 1960's, so you can see why they are not the most efficient for a Porsche in 2007.
Do yourself a favor and get a Vitesse stage 2.
That is the most efficient, practical turbo for a street 951.
I have installed and turned one and I have also installed and tuned the k27's.
The stage 2 car would run circles around your car with the k27 - HUUUUUGE difference. We have tested 60 HP ( at the same boost level) with the same or better spoolup characteristics by the stage 2..
I have to say after giving much thought to this ( because I have been asked A LOT), if I was a doing a strictly streetcar I would use a Vitesse stage 2, SFR stage TWO headers, Lindsey 3 inch exhaust, Tial 38, black **** and a KEP stage 1 with stock disk.
This is my opinion for the best all-around streetcar 951. Do it and see if any other 951 can keep up with you.
You will only get the bad, and none of the good.
The k27 is too small a compressor to necessitate a #10.
Your car will be slower. Probably MUCH slower - you will lose AT LEAST 300 RPM spoolup, and I believe you may not gain even 1 HP on top.
Don't waste time experimenting with the old kkk family of turbos that came on our cars. Its all been done before 10,000 times. The k27/8 is a decent compromise for what it is.
They were made for diesel trucks that have 20:1 compression to spin them in the 1960's, so you can see why they are not the most efficient for a Porsche in 2007.
Do yourself a favor and get a Vitesse stage 2.
That is the most efficient, practical turbo for a street 951.
I have installed and turned one and I have also installed and tuned the k27's.
The stage 2 car would run circles around your car with the k27 - HUUUUUGE difference. We have tested 60 HP ( at the same boost level) with the same or better spoolup characteristics by the stage 2..
I have to say after giving much thought to this ( because I have been asked A LOT), if I was a doing a strictly streetcar I would use a Vitesse stage 2, SFR stage TWO headers, Lindsey 3 inch exhaust, Tial 38, black **** and a KEP stage 1 with stock disk.
This is my opinion for the best all-around streetcar 951. Do it and see if any other 951 can keep up with you.
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Originally Posted by special tool
No - don't do this.
You will only get the bad, and none of the good.
The k27 is too small a compressor to necessitate a #10.
Your car will be slower. Probably MUCH slower - you will lose AT LEAST 300 RPM spoolup, and I believe you may not gain even 1 HP on top.
Don't waste time experimenting with the old kkk family of turbos that came on our cars. Its all been done before 10,000 times. The k27/8 is a decent compromise for what it is.
They were made for diesel trucks that have 20:1 compression to spin them in the 1960's, so you can see why they are not the most efficient for a Porsche in 2007.
You will only get the bad, and none of the good.
The k27 is too small a compressor to necessitate a #10.
Your car will be slower. Probably MUCH slower - you will lose AT LEAST 300 RPM spoolup, and I believe you may not gain even 1 HP on top.
Don't waste time experimenting with the old kkk family of turbos that came on our cars. Its all been done before 10,000 times. The k27/8 is a decent compromise for what it is.
They were made for diesel trucks that have 20:1 compression to spin them in the 1960's, so you can see why they are not the most efficient for a Porsche in 2007.
Just doesn't sound like Porsche. But maybe they saw it as a "if it ain't broke..." thing??
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From: NAS PAX River, by way of Orlando
Originally Posted by special tool
I have to say after giving much thought to this ( because I have been asked A LOT), if I was a doing a strictly streetcar I would use a Vitesse stage 2, SFR stage TWO headers, Lindsey 3 inch exhaust, Tial 38, black **** and a KEP stage 1 with stock disk.
This is my opinion for the best all-around streetcar 951. Do it and see if any other 951 can keep up with you.
This is my opinion for the best all-around streetcar 951. Do it and see if any other 951 can keep up with you.
This could be the "ST performance package"
#6
Originally Posted by daniel951
i would have to agree don't go with a #10 hotside
How many people have actually tried one though? I hear lots of speculation and little evidence. I've only seen a couple other people or dynos of #10 housings on various turbos. As far as Garrett T3 housings go, IMO for turbos capable of flowing 350-400+whp a .63a/r exhaust housing is getting to the point where it is a bit restrictive. Much over 400whp and a .82a/r is usually a better idea. Of course it will result in a few hundred rpm more lag (300-500rpm is fairly usual) but you'll gain more power and flow much more on the top-end. When it comes to high horsepower stuff like 450-500+whp on a motor with ~2.5-3.0L displacement, a .82a/r is pretty much a necessity. At that point a .63a/r is a huge restriction and will significantly hurt your top-end power. With all of the research I've done, it appears to me that the #8 is close in size to about a ~.60a/r T3 housing and the #10 about a ~.70a/r housing. If that's the case or at least close to it, then people are basically running the KKK equivalent to a .63a/r T3 on most of their turbos including big stuff like the LR Super 75 (T3/T67). IMO that sounds pretty inefficient at least when you start running significantly larger turbos as you still have some of the inherent lag that a larger turbo produces, and you don't get much top-end power as a result of the restriction so you'd end up having a peaky mid-range setup that doesn't make much power on either side of the rpm range. Sound familiar to any powerbands we know of? Anyways, this has been my personal experience with various sizes of turbos on various other cars of mostly 2.0-3.0l displacement. There's no reason it wouldn't apply to 951's. Anyways, it would be nice to hear some actual facts and not speculation.
Rogue_Ant, for some reason Turbonetics site didn't want to open right now but, here is the stuff they sell that I found from a list I found on another site:
20537-2 Turb. Hsg., K-26,10cm2,Stg 2 $290.32
20537-3 Turb. Hsg., K-26,10cm2,Stg 3 $290.32
20537-5 Turb. Hsg., K-26,10cm2,Stg 5 $290.32
20537-1 Turb. Hsg., K-26,10cm2,Stock $290.32
I tend to agree with ST. There are better and more efficient turbos out there, so if you are going to buy a KKK replica housing, you might want to consider going with something newer and more efficient like a Precision SC series turbo, typical T3/T4 hybrid, etc.
Anyways, just FYI but DSM's run metric exhaust housings, and some are similar sized to ours. 6cm2, 7cm2, 8cm2, 10cm2, and 14cm2 seem to be the typical ones they use for varying turbo sizes. I'm not suggesting you use one, just simply saying that you can kind of see the correlation in size and what those guys are acheiving using similar housings. Apples to oranges but, it's better than nothing.
#7
Originally Posted by Porschefile
How many people have actually tried one though? I hear lots of speculation and little evidence. I've only seen a couple other people or dynos of #10 housings on various turbos. As far as Garrett T3 housings go, IMO for turbos capable of flowing 350-400+whp a .63a/r exhaust housing is getting to the point where it is a bit restrictive. Much over 400whp and a .82a/r is usually a better idea. Of course it will result in a few hundred rpm more lag (300-500rpm is fairly usual) but you'll gain more power and flow much more on the top-end. When it comes to high horsepower stuff like 450-500+whp on a motor with ~2.5-3.0L displacement, a .82a/r is pretty much a necessity. At that point a .63a/r is a huge restriction and will significantly hurt your top-end power. With all of the research I've done, it appears to me that the #8 is close in size to about a ~.60a/r T3 housing and the #10 about a ~.70a/r housing. If that's the case or at least close to it, then people are basically running the KKK equivalent to a .63a/r T3 on most of their turbos including big stuff like the LR Super 75 (T3/T67). IMO that sounds pretty inefficient at least when you start running significantly larger turbos as you still have some of the inherent lag that a larger turbo produces, and you don't get much top-end power as a result of the restriction so you'd end up having a peaky mid-range setup that doesn't make much power on either side of the rpm range. Sound familiar to any powerbands we know of? Anyways, this has been my personal experience with various sizes of turbos on various other cars of mostly 2.0-3.0l displacement. There's no reason it wouldn't apply to 951's. Anyways, it would be nice to hear some actual facts and not speculation.
Rogue_Ant, for some reason Turbonetics site didn't want to open right now but, here is the stuff they sell that I found from a list I found on another site:
20537-2 Turb. Hsg., K-26,10cm2,Stg 2 $290.32
20537-3 Turb. Hsg., K-26,10cm2,Stg 3 $290.32
20537-5 Turb. Hsg., K-26,10cm2,Stg 5 $290.32
20537-1 Turb. Hsg., K-26,10cm2,Stock $290.32
I tend to agree with ST. There are better and more efficient turbos out there, so if you are going to buy a KKK replica housing, you might want to consider going with something newer and more efficient like a Precision SC series turbo, typical T3/T4 hybrid, etc.
Anyways, just FYI but DSM's run metric exhaust housings, and some are similar sized to ours. 6cm2, 7cm2, 8cm2, 10cm2, and 14cm2 seem to be the typical ones they use for varying turbo sizes. I'm not suggesting you use one, just simply saying that you can kind of see the correlation in size and what those guys are acheiving using similar housings. Apples to oranges but, it's better than nothing.
Rogue_Ant, for some reason Turbonetics site didn't want to open right now but, here is the stuff they sell that I found from a list I found on another site:
20537-2 Turb. Hsg., K-26,10cm2,Stg 2 $290.32
20537-3 Turb. Hsg., K-26,10cm2,Stg 3 $290.32
20537-5 Turb. Hsg., K-26,10cm2,Stg 5 $290.32
20537-1 Turb. Hsg., K-26,10cm2,Stock $290.32
I tend to agree with ST. There are better and more efficient turbos out there, so if you are going to buy a KKK replica housing, you might want to consider going with something newer and more efficient like a Precision SC series turbo, typical T3/T4 hybrid, etc.
Anyways, just FYI but DSM's run metric exhaust housings, and some are similar sized to ours. 6cm2, 7cm2, 8cm2, 10cm2, and 14cm2 seem to be the typical ones they use for varying turbo sizes. I'm not suggesting you use one, just simply saying that you can kind of see the correlation in size and what those guys are acheiving using similar housings. Apples to oranges but, it's better than nothing.
The k27 will NEVER, EVER make more than 350 RWHP ON A 2.5 8 VALVE 951.
I turned mine all the way up and it made 330 RWHP.
Its a 400 crank HP compressor - that's it.
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#8
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From: NAS PAX River, by way of Orlando
EDIT
I think LR has a dyno graph of one run with Super 75 w/ #10.
Also, if you go to the thread "dyno 89S" I posted a run of my super 75 w/ #8. Peak tq was about 4,500 with very little roll off in upper revs.
Also, if you go to the thread "dyno 89S" I posted a run of my super 75 w/ #8. Peak tq was about 4,500 with very little roll off in upper revs.
#10
Tool,
Not trying to be smart, but the K27 can do more than 350whp. There is a dyno chart in the archives of a K27-8 doing 378whp (or so) at 20-22psi. HOWEVER, the owner of the car did a lot of other mods as well, such as big valve cylinder head + p&p, 3" exhaust w/downpipe, SFR headers and so on, so it's not just a bolt on a K27 (be it 8 or 10) and get 350+whp.
I will agree with you, a #10 hot side would be needed on a serious 951 such as you'res, and 450+whp is required, and a K27-10 would be a strange combo.
Not trying to be smart, but the K27 can do more than 350whp. There is a dyno chart in the archives of a K27-8 doing 378whp (or so) at 20-22psi. HOWEVER, the owner of the car did a lot of other mods as well, such as big valve cylinder head + p&p, 3" exhaust w/downpipe, SFR headers and so on, so it's not just a bolt on a K27 (be it 8 or 10) and get 350+whp.
I will agree with you, a #10 hot side would be needed on a serious 951 such as you'res, and 450+whp is required, and a K27-10 would be a strange combo.
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From: Denver
I guess should have been more specific
I totally agree that the #10 hsg with a K27 compressor is too much...
However I plan on changing to a larger compressor wheel as well.
Rogue
I totally agree that the #10 hsg with a K27 compressor is too much...
However I plan on changing to a larger compressor wheel as well.
Rogue
#13
Originally Posted by special tool
I have to say after giving much thought to this ( because I have been asked A LOT), if I was a doing a strictly streetcar I would use a Vitesse stage 2, SFR stage TWO headers, Lindsey 3 inch exhaust, Tial 38, black **** and a KEP stage 1 with stock disk.
This is my opinion for the best all-around streetcar 951. Do it and see if any other 951 can keep up with you.
This is my opinion for the best all-around streetcar 951. Do it and see if any other 951 can keep up with you.
Pretty close to my new setup, except for I have stock headers and exhaust.
#14
Originally Posted by Rogue_Ant
I guess should have been more specific
I totally agree that the #10 hsg with a K27 compressor is too much...
However I plan on changing to a larger compressor wheel as well.
Rogue
I totally agree that the #10 hsg with a K27 compressor is too much...
However I plan on changing to a larger compressor wheel as well.
Rogue