WTB Lindsey Racing Boost Enhancer
02-17-2007, 09:33 PM
#16
Burning Brakes
Would this be beneficial for my car with the mods in my sig? Or would the chipset cause it to function incorrectly?
02-17-2007, 10:34 PM
#18
Originally Posted by ehall
...and you took his word for it, because you clearly don't know a damn thing about tuning your car. Here ya go champ.
The following is an explanation of how and why the Boost Enhancer works. Once you understand the basics of the 951 waste gate system, you will see the necessity for the Boost Enhancer.
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First, let’s explain the basics of turbo charging. Since a turbo is an exhaust driven device, the more pressure you build in the exhaust system, the faster the turbo spins up and the less lag time there is. Keep in mind that the typical turbo spins over 50,000 rpm at full pressure. The turbo takes time (lag) to reach this speed so the more exhaust pressure we can put to it, the faster it will reach the necessary rpm to produce full boost.
The waste gate is the device that regulates the speed of the turbo, otherwise with enough pressure the turbo would over-rev. This is a bad thing! There is a diaphragm in the waste gate that contains the pressure and opens an exhaust valve inside that relieves excess exhaust gas pressure to slow the turbo down. This basic concept is used on virtually all turbo charged applications. The waste gate has a connection to the intake system that feeds boost pressure to it. This is the basics of how the system works. The “Banjo Bolt” on the boost tube is where this connection to the waste gate takes place.
Most people, even factory mechanics, are not aware of this fact: The factory design of the 951 waste gate opens it as soon as any pressure is introduced. It might be barely open, but open none the less. The higher the boost pressure goes, the more it opens. The problem is it is dumping valuable exhaust pressure to drive the turbo, before it has to! More boost at a lower RPM means more torque and horsepower in that RPM range.
Who knows why Porsche did this! Personally it think they did this so the car would be slower and a little easier for the average person to drive. Remember the 951 was the bottom end of their line of cars, they didn’t want it to be the fastest!
The solution to this problem is to slow or completely stop the air signal to the waste gate as long as possible. Most of you with stage 2 software have the modified “Banjo bolt” that was supplied. This device has a restriction jet that slows the boost signal to the waste gate. It works well, but it only slows the boost reaching the waste gate. Why not stop it all together?
That’s where the Boost Enhancer comes in. This device does exactly that, it stops the boost signal until a preset pressure is reached, then full boost is applied to the waste gate and factory systems operate normally from that point on!
It's not intended to allow you to build higher boost pressure, but to give you your normal level of boost much sooner. Once the Boost Enhancer is fully open, the factory controls for timing, fuel, knock control and maximum boost is still there, it is not intended to over ride them.
Factory setting on the Boost Enhancer is 10psi. It requires 10 pounds of boost pressure to start to open it. The higher the pressure it receives, the further it opens and the more it flows air to the wastegate.
We highly recommend that if you have the “Banjo bolt” with the air restrictor, remove it and install the factory bolt! The reason for this is that once the Boost Enhancer opens, you need to get the boost to the waste gate as soon as possible. There is no more reason to delay it any longer!
For street applications, there is really no advantage in changing the factory setting of the Boost Enhancer. We have already set it at the optimum pressure for safe operation. The speed of the turbo increases exponentially. In simple terms, the time it takes the turbo to build 4psi, it can go from 4 to 16psi just as fast. So if you set the Boost Enhancer to high, the turbo can spin up so fast that it could over-boost. The Factory computer will shut the engine off if this takes place, so you won’t blow the engine. The 10psi-factory setting gives the waste gate time to regulate the turbo like it needs to.
If you have a racecar running significantly higher than normal boost pressures, a slight gain might be had by “Tweaking” the setting.
The following is an explanation of how and why the Boost Enhancer works. Once you understand the basics of the 951 waste gate system, you will see the necessity for the Boost Enhancer.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
First, let’s explain the basics of turbo charging. Since a turbo is an exhaust driven device, the more pressure you build in the exhaust system, the faster the turbo spins up and the less lag time there is. Keep in mind that the typical turbo spins over 50,000 rpm at full pressure. The turbo takes time (lag) to reach this speed so the more exhaust pressure we can put to it, the faster it will reach the necessary rpm to produce full boost.
The waste gate is the device that regulates the speed of the turbo, otherwise with enough pressure the turbo would over-rev. This is a bad thing! There is a diaphragm in the waste gate that contains the pressure and opens an exhaust valve inside that relieves excess exhaust gas pressure to slow the turbo down. This basic concept is used on virtually all turbo charged applications. The waste gate has a connection to the intake system that feeds boost pressure to it. This is the basics of how the system works. The “Banjo Bolt” on the boost tube is where this connection to the waste gate takes place.
Most people, even factory mechanics, are not aware of this fact: The factory design of the 951 waste gate opens it as soon as any pressure is introduced. It might be barely open, but open none the less. The higher the boost pressure goes, the more it opens. The problem is it is dumping valuable exhaust pressure to drive the turbo, before it has to! More boost at a lower RPM means more torque and horsepower in that RPM range.
Who knows why Porsche did this! Personally it think they did this so the car would be slower and a little easier for the average person to drive. Remember the 951 was the bottom end of their line of cars, they didn’t want it to be the fastest!
The solution to this problem is to slow or completely stop the air signal to the waste gate as long as possible. Most of you with stage 2 software have the modified “Banjo bolt” that was supplied. This device has a restriction jet that slows the boost signal to the waste gate. It works well, but it only slows the boost reaching the waste gate. Why not stop it all together?
That’s where the Boost Enhancer comes in. This device does exactly that, it stops the boost signal until a preset pressure is reached, then full boost is applied to the waste gate and factory systems operate normally from that point on!
It's not intended to allow you to build higher boost pressure, but to give you your normal level of boost much sooner. Once the Boost Enhancer is fully open, the factory controls for timing, fuel, knock control and maximum boost is still there, it is not intended to over ride them.
Factory setting on the Boost Enhancer is 10psi. It requires 10 pounds of boost pressure to start to open it. The higher the pressure it receives, the further it opens and the more it flows air to the wastegate.
We highly recommend that if you have the “Banjo bolt” with the air restrictor, remove it and install the factory bolt! The reason for this is that once the Boost Enhancer opens, you need to get the boost to the waste gate as soon as possible. There is no more reason to delay it any longer!
For street applications, there is really no advantage in changing the factory setting of the Boost Enhancer. We have already set it at the optimum pressure for safe operation. The speed of the turbo increases exponentially. In simple terms, the time it takes the turbo to build 4psi, it can go from 4 to 16psi just as fast. So if you set the Boost Enhancer to high, the turbo can spin up so fast that it could over-boost. The Factory computer will shut the engine off if this takes place, so you won’t blow the engine. The 10psi-factory setting gives the waste gate time to regulate the turbo like it needs to.
If you have a racecar running significantly higher than normal boost pressures, a slight gain might be had by “Tweaking” the setting.
The banjo bolt was not designed to do any thing with boost except conect a hard line to the klr valve...the klr valve regulates boost to the wastegate not the hose...the Lindsey boost enhancer keeps the boost signal from being read until it causes a greater pressure to over power the spring in side the valve letting the signal through to the wastegate....the wastegate regulates the volume of the exhaust which inturn regulates the exit pressure which spins the hot side of the turbo, this creating more volume on the intake side which creates more boost...just because the turbo is spinning does not mean it is creating more boost (cavitation does come into play AT SOME POINT ). The boost enhancer should be called the boost plunger because it stops and holds a signal... As for factory wastegates, they hold the pressure until the internal spring is over powered?? I don't use the factory wastegate the design was good for its time ...if you use a good quality wastegate and adjust the spring correctly there is no need for the enhancer, plunger, whatever you want to call it...its a waste...those devices are for the ease of installation, reread his selling point at the bottom. He sells an item to keep the car within factory specs...but if you want you can tweek it...
02-17-2007, 10:41 PM
#19
Burning Brakes
The key to the above statment is: "...if you use a good quality wastegate and adjust the spring correctly there is no need for the enhancer, plunger, whatever you want to call it...its a waste..." That is true, if you use a DP WG, the LBE is useless! However, with the stock WG is does have some benifit.
02-18-2007, 12:01 AM
#20
Rennlist Member
in the stock system the boost is regulated by the wastegate that dumps the available exhuast pressure to spin the turbo. The wastegate is operated by both a spring and a pneumatic signal from the Cycling Valve, CV. The signal from the CV acts against the wastegate diaphragm and must overcome the spring to open the wastegate. The CV has 3 connections; the wastegate diaphragm, the turbo compressor inlet after the AFM (vacuum), and before the throttle body, ie banjo bolt (pressure). It is called a cycling valve because of it's operation, it cycles the connection to the wastegate between vacuum and pressure. When it is off vacuum is sent to the wastegate. The frequency it cycles at determines how much pressure is sent to the wastegate diaphragm. Because of the cycling the pressure sent to open the wastegate is not an instant on-off signal. The signal slowly increase or decreases, especially when compared to how fast boost builds. Because of this lack of volume of pressure to instantly control the wastegate the cycling valve starts cycling before boost needs to be controlled. This is how electronic boost controllers work, they cycle a solenoid that allows pressure or vacuum to go the the wastegate diaphragm.
With modern electronic boost controllers you don't adjust the maximum boost, you adjust the solenoid cycling frequency and that determines maximum boost. There is another adjustment called the gate pressure. The gate setting determines when the cycling starts. If you start the cycling too soon the boost will come on very slowly because the wastegate opens too much too soon. If you start the cycling too late the boost will spike above the desired maximum boost until enough volume of pressure is passed to the wastegate to open it. The stock CV system starts opening the wastegate as early as 4 psi of boost.
What the Lindsey Boost Enhancer does is block the positive pressure to the CV until that positive pressure reaches 10 psi. That means that even though the CV starts to cycle, there is no pressure available to send to the wastegate diapragm to start opening the wastegate. Once the boost pressure reaches 10 psi the LBE opens allowing pressure to the CV and the CV can then operate the wastegate to control boost. In effect the LBE is adjusting the gate pressure of when the CV can operate the wastegate much like the gate setting on an electronic boost controller. The effect on boost is that it builds quicker, therefore the name boost enhancer. In most cases the 10 psi setting is conservative enough that the CV still has time to open the wastegate before boost spikes above the max factory setting when overboost protection kicks in.
Shimming the wastegate increases the pressure necessary on the wastegate diaphragm to open the wastegate and therefore increases boost. A jetted banjo bolt restricts the volume of pressure available to the CV and increases boost by increasing the time it takes for the CV to open the wastegate. Do not use the LBE if you are using a jetted banjo bolt.
It is NOT the wastegate that the LBE works to improve. It is the Cycling Valve boost control. No mater what wastegate or spring you have if you are using stock cycling valve boost control you will benefit from the LBE. If you are using a Manual Boost Controller or an aftermarket Electronic Boost Controller there is no need for the LBE.
With modern electronic boost controllers you don't adjust the maximum boost, you adjust the solenoid cycling frequency and that determines maximum boost. There is another adjustment called the gate pressure. The gate setting determines when the cycling starts. If you start the cycling too soon the boost will come on very slowly because the wastegate opens too much too soon. If you start the cycling too late the boost will spike above the desired maximum boost until enough volume of pressure is passed to the wastegate to open it. The stock CV system starts opening the wastegate as early as 4 psi of boost.
What the Lindsey Boost Enhancer does is block the positive pressure to the CV until that positive pressure reaches 10 psi. That means that even though the CV starts to cycle, there is no pressure available to send to the wastegate diapragm to start opening the wastegate. Once the boost pressure reaches 10 psi the LBE opens allowing pressure to the CV and the CV can then operate the wastegate to control boost. In effect the LBE is adjusting the gate pressure of when the CV can operate the wastegate much like the gate setting on an electronic boost controller. The effect on boost is that it builds quicker, therefore the name boost enhancer. In most cases the 10 psi setting is conservative enough that the CV still has time to open the wastegate before boost spikes above the max factory setting when overboost protection kicks in.
Shimming the wastegate increases the pressure necessary on the wastegate diaphragm to open the wastegate and therefore increases boost. A jetted banjo bolt restricts the volume of pressure available to the CV and increases boost by increasing the time it takes for the CV to open the wastegate. Do not use the LBE if you are using a jetted banjo bolt.
It is NOT the wastegate that the LBE works to improve. It is the Cycling Valve boost control. No mater what wastegate or spring you have if you are using stock cycling valve boost control you will benefit from the LBE. If you are using a Manual Boost Controller or an aftermarket Electronic Boost Controller there is no need for the LBE.
Last edited by RKD in OKC; 02-18-2007 at 12:25 AM.
02-18-2007, 01:29 AM
#21
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LFA951,
RKD in OKC is dead on. The person that told you the LBE is crap is giving you bad advice. If you do not have a dual port WG you will see an improvement w/ the LBE - it does work. If you do have a dual port WG then the MBC/EBC takes the Cycing Valve/LBE out of the loop.
I just installed a Tial DPWG/MBC and no longer need my LBE. If anyone is interested let me know.
RKD in OKC is dead on. The person that told you the LBE is crap is giving you bad advice. If you do not have a dual port WG you will see an improvement w/ the LBE - it does work. If you do have a dual port WG then the MBC/EBC takes the Cycing Valve/LBE out of the loop.
I just installed a Tial DPWG/MBC and no longer need my LBE. If anyone is interested let me know.
02-18-2007, 02:03 AM
#23
Rennlist Member
Again, it is not the Dual Port Waste Gate it is the Manual Boost Controller that negates the use of the LBE.
Of course, most do upgrade to a DPWG after they find out how sensitive the adjustment is on an MBC with a Single Port Waste Gate.
I've also got a LBE for $25
Of course, most do upgrade to a DPWG after they find out how sensitive the adjustment is on an MBC with a Single Port Waste Gate.
I've also got a LBE for $25
02-18-2007, 11:19 AM
#24
Originally Posted by RKD in OKC
Again, it is not the Dual Port Waste Gate it is the Manual Boost Controller that negates the use of the LBE.
Of course, most do upgrade to a DPWG after they find out how sensitive the adjustment is on an MBC with a Single Port Waste Gate.
I've also got a LBE for $25
Of course, most do upgrade to a DPWG after they find out how sensitive the adjustment is on an MBC with a Single Port Waste Gate.
I've also got a LBE for $25
02-18-2007, 11:46 AM
#26
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Originally Posted by LFA951
I have a stock wastegate with a Turbonetics MBC, no CV, Wes at LR said I can use the LBE with my MBC....
02-18-2007, 12:27 PM
#27
Originally Posted by Jfrahm
You can use it, but it would be redundant. Both valves would prevent the pressure from reaching the wastegate, it'd be like having a MBC set for 10psi in train with an MBC set for 16psi.
