IanM

Hey guys,
I'm looking for opinions. I just purchased a set of late offset control arms with only 9600 miles on them for my '89 951. Balljoints are tight, they're basically new. I participate in about 6 DE's and 6 AutoX per year, have M030 revalved Konis with 300# front springs and 28mm torsion bars. Car is lower than stock, but still clears speed bumps and is not crazy low. I'm trying to decide what to do with these control arms, and am looking for opinions.

(1) Install as-is. Check for play and replace OEM balljoint bushings with bronze bushings once play is detected

(2) Re and re balljoints now with bronze bushings

(3) Re and re balljoints with bronze bushing, and install longer balljoint pins for geometry correction. There is currently no dents on balljoint socket or other signs of pin binding, and I want to make sure I don't damage these rather pricey arms down the road. However, I am running 300# springs and car is not super low, so perhaps suspension travel to cause pin binding and damage is not of concern.

(4) Same as (3) but with 19mm balljoint pins

Opinions? If I did buy a new balljoint kit, it would be through www.rennbay.com.

OriginalSterm

at least (2), maybe (3), (4) if you plan on later upgrading to a race oriented control arm that uses the larger diameter pin. also consider replacing the caster blocks and front control arm mounts with something from Elephant Racing or Racers Edge.

Rich Sandor

You're willing to bore out those precious m030 spindles to accept a 19mm pin?

333pg333

Rich, why are they so precious? Of course because they have 'Mo30' as their descriptor we deify them, but if you want to seriously track your car then I believe you should change to an aftermarket arm such as the RacersEdge where you do have to re-tap the spindle. If you want to upgrade to a Monoblock caliper system, then having a pre-89 MO30 without the radial attachment system is easier to mount such things. In fact almost mandatory. I'm sure I've missed something and I'll be told what, but the more I read about upgrades, the more I think the MO30's and the Koni's in their day, are exactly that, in the past.

Rich Sandor

Because they are rare. Try to find one when you need one, at an affordable price... My point is that if whoever is machining out the spindles makes a booboo, it'll be a mighty expensive one.

333pg333

Fair enough point, but maybe becoming increasingly less valid the more people are modifying their cars?

Ski

don't forget about Sloan at SSI. If you don't have time, you can send the arms to him and he'll do the install for you. I got called back to work early and had to send the arms to him, they did a great job for me on the track car. I did my street car myself. Here are some pics and of what I just scored last week for the track car.





track car



spindles already drilled, extra set of hubs, and front calipers too.

Guns951

SKI are those the racer's edge arms?

Ski

Charlie Arms. They were on the car for one race and the car got hit in the rear and totaled.

Guns951

They're so amazingly beautiful!

smlporsche

Boring out the spindles is no big deal.

When I bought my Racer's Edge control arms I sent my spindles to Karl at Racer's Edge. Although he doesn't adveritise it he has a jig that makes the drilling easy and his price for the work was reasonable too.

BTW he just blew the doors off everyone else in F Class at the PCA race in Sebring yesterday. I'll bet he has them on his car...

thingo

So now I know who outbid me Or was it me that pushed up the price? they call me bidder 3.

f1rocks

Heard yesterday that they had a Racer's Edge Control arm fail at Sebring. They are going to recall them.

SML have you heard from them yet??

333pg333

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IanM

Great discussion...but only 1 response to my actual questions!

Rich - I probably won't go to 19mm pins, my main questions are regarding experience/recommendations on moving straight away to bronze bushings, and whether or not longer pins are necessary.

Ski - I've used the SSI balljoint kits before, have a set downstairs on another pair of arms. The sockets themselves were worn out, so even with new bushings there was still too much play in the balljoints. Once the OEM upper cups fail, you have to catch it quickly or you'll risk wearing the sockets.

I don't hear much on the board about people moving to the longer pins for geometry correction, but I'm hoping someone with experience with them will pipe up.

Thanks.