Gauges, what to get and where to put them?
#17
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Originally Posted by Bryans951
here is what I did with mine. I plan on redoing it soon.
#20
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What gauges do you have and where? Are they readable enough where they are? Do you just get a chance to glance at them down the straights? Are they dataloggable (sp) ?
Thanks
Thanks
#21
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Put maybe the fuel gauge and the ones you don't need to see while driving. Anything in need of of constant monitoring needs to be either next to the main cluster or on the A pillar.
#23
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I would put the oil temp gauge first, then water temp, then boost - reason: you should be able to check boost on warm up lap and forget about it. We still use the factory gauge for oil pressure but have both aftermarket temp gauges. Depending on the track, and I'll use Hallett as an example, I have two small straights to look at the gauges. I get a quick glance at oil and water temp, and look at the WBO2 while down the straight in third on boost. The rest of the time you're too damn busy to just look at them. Memphis you have the long straight, TWS the banked straight, and Barber you can on the straight with start finish. For those of you with street/track, yes you should be able to look at them all you want on highway runs.
#24
Just a quick note - probably already common knowledge in the group, but regardless of where I put my guages I always turn them so that normal operation has the needle at the 12 0'clock position. That way a very quick glance tells me all needles are straight up or there is a problem that requires furher investigation - just my .02.
#25
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Ah, very good tip! Thanks.
#26
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Originally Posted by chilibluepepper
Mine is not much of a street car anymore - no A/C, no radio, etc... I used the center A/C vents, as well as center console.
#28
Originally Posted by 333pg333
What gauges do you have and where? Are they readable enough where they are? Do you just get a chance to glance at them down the straights? Are they dataloggable (sp) ?
Thanks
Thanks
Just going through the same process myself. I spent some time with the guy who will fabricate the A pillar pod for me (I haven't found any for RHD) and picked up Autometer catalogue from him today.
He suggested I use mechnical rather than electric where available because they are more reliable and less susceptible to interference and incorrect readings. He also suggested "Sport Comp" as the minimum range. He said we could put up to 4 in the A pillar and 3 in the panel beneath the radio (the ones you just ocasionally glance at). He can incorporate LED warning lights with the A pillar gauges if required and can trim it in vinyl or it can have a special treatment that can look like whatever - maybe carbon fibre.
Therefore I can choose up to 7 gauges and already have a UEGO wide band with digital readout which can be datalogged. Being digital it is smaller and can mount somewhere (yet to determine) quite neatly and in easy site. I don't know if any other than A/F ratio can be data logged or what you would need for the logging. To me AF ratio is very important. Whilst, as you point out it is primarily used for tuning and shouldn't really be needed after this is a perfect world situation in which case we wouldn't really need most of the others either. I see it as a good means to ensure your car is holding its tune as well as an indicator if there is a more serious issue and the vehicle is leaning out which could be catastrophic if undetected.
The others I am thinkng about (some of these may aid in future development rather than being really necessary):
Boost pressure
Oil Pressure
Coolant Temp
Oil Temp
Fuel Pressure (this uses an isolator under the bonnet so you only have air pressure going to the gauge)
Exhaust Gas Temp
2 Channel Intake Temp (pre and post intercooler)
Exhaust Gas Pressure would also be interesting to know.
An I agree with the other comment about aiming to have 12 o'clock as the normal position.
Preliminary pricing would suggest that after taking into account exchange rates and adding a little for shipping they are probably still about 3 time the price here compared to US.
I have a 2 litre Accusump which I plan to fit (just have to work out where to put it!) If there is an oil pressure drop (eg from oil surge) it will inject oil from its resevoir to maintain oil supply. I'm installing a small fuel accumulator tank for the same reason which allso requires an additional pump.
If you wanted a kill switch to work off oil pressure, there is an electronic kill switch which I guess you could possibly hook up so as to be activated by a low oil pressure condition. Brakes generally have a vacuum resevoir so you still have some assisted application once the engine has shut down.
Hope this helps.
#29
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Originally Posted by 333pg333
Ah, very good tip! Thanks.
Click Here --> Tony G's Web Site
#30
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Nice one Rob. Good link thanks.
Just checked the site out. Wow he put a lot of time and money into that car, especially for it's day. Impressive.
Just checked the site out. Wow he put a lot of time and money into that car, especially for it's day. Impressive.
Last edited by 333pg333; 02-14-2007 at 08:42 AM.