cheetah chrome

Last night I rebuilt my throttle body using the Arnworx kit (great kit!!!...perfect 3 beer job HA!).
Everything went together without issue but I'm unsure whether my throttle plate is sealing to the bore correctly. When I first took the TB apart it had the usual light oil coating inside and I didn't notice any airgap between the throttle plate and the TB bore. Now that everything is clean and reassembled when I hold the TB up to the light I can see a hallo of light around the throttle plate. I was under the assumption that the plate closes completely to the bore and at that point idle air intake is controlled by the idle set screw, am I correct in that assumption? Does this look correct?

- throttle plate is in the correct orientation, beveled edges are correct w/ the edges of the bore.
- as pictured the throttle cam stop screw is completely out.
- all thin washers are installed correctly.
- 13mm nut is torqued to 6 inch/lbs.
- circlip is sitting in it's grove.
- no side to side play in the shaft.
- new TPS is adjusted correctly (not holing up rotation of the shaft).
- Return spring is tight/has tension w/ the throttle plate closed.
- one thing I haven't done yet is thread lock the throttle plate screws and peen them so there maybe some slight adjustment there. What thread locker is everyone using?




And anyone have a throttle cam stop adjustment screw? I need a new one, one of the slotted screwdriver tangs broke off on mine.



As always TIA!

turbo8

i have the screw, i would think it wold be easier to just go to the store and buy one, might have to modify it.

there shouldnt be a gap between the throttle plate, you need to get in the right place, and make sure its in the right way

hosrom_951

cheetah chrome,
Mine is just like you'res, and turbo8 is making me believe something is probably wrong. Yet i have no problems with the car's idle, drivability.......

mikeyoman

just rebuilt mine and like turbo8 says there should not be any gap. I used an Allen bolt (M4 ?) so's I wouldn't have to keep replacing the damn screw every time it broke.

Hi Sam

cheetah chrome

Turbo8,
Thanks! I can spot out the difference by looking at your photo.

It's not easy to see in my photo but there is a faded blue arrow on the throttle plate that points towards the idle control screws bypass "tunnel". I put it there before disassembly (per Arnworx instructions) to ensure it got back together as originally assembled. One thing I also noted before disassembly was that the number "4" that's stamped into the plate is opposite of the arrow I drew. So that makes sense...the plate is flipped over end making the beveling appear to be correct upon inspection but not lining up perfect once closed. It lookss as though a PO had swapped my plate around during a previous rebuild. Thanks again...gotta love the 'list!

What thread locker has everyone been using?

2bridges

nevermind - I replied about idle speed screw not stop screw

hosrom_951

Looks like i ned to do the same



Hey Mike

cheetah chrome

Last night I had a chance to tinker w/ the throttle body and still wasn't able to get it to completely close. I swapped the plate around in all (4) possible positions and the only one that comes close to completely sealing is as I had originally disassembled/reassembled it. I then pulled the entire shaft and just hand fit the plate into the bore to see if it would totally seal...and no dice. Inspecting my throttle plate itself: on one side of the plate where the both opposite bevelings meets up in the center (the area of the plate that is "sandwiched" by the shaft there is noticable machining/wear. That may not be the best description...I'll get a picture this afternoon. Anywho, it looks like my throttle plate was either a manufacturing error (w/in tolerance maybe???) or has warn over the years? I got it completely reassembled last night and minimize the "hallo" air gap as much as possible but there's still a hallo of light leaking around it.

Does anyone have a good throttle plate they want to get rid off?

F18Rep

Good post. Not much I can contribute but I always mark my plate before I pull it but admit that I've had problems getting it oriented correctly too. The majic marker I ususally use will wash off with most clean-up, some people put a scratch in the plate. I don't think you can rely on the stamped number being the same on all TBs. But you're right to check it close because a little stickiness in the throttle will mean a high or irregular idle, which is very irritating. On the thread locker, I used the common blue stuff, at any autoparts store. Thread locker is an added measure of insurance, not OEM....Bruce

Tampa 928s