If I did go with a EBC I would probably get either the Greddy PRofec B-Spec2 or Blitz Dual SBC Spec R. What are the pro's and cons of each?

 

The greddy type S looked minimalist / more plug and play, havn't tried it myself though.
http://www.prostreetonline.com/buy/g...st_controller/

 

The actual "venturi" that people delete on the 86 is not shown in these pics. The three-metal-pipe console actually keeps things tidy in my opinion -- although if you delete the CV you can grind off the two smaller pipes from the big one.

 

How much more difficult would the Profec B-spec 2 or spec-R be to set up compared to the type-S?

 

If you guys looks closely in the first picture, look at the cylinder head stud/nut.....

There are no threads exposed, looks like the cylinder head is coming loose due to age???

 

WHAT!

 

I have an HKS EVC 5 if your interested. PM me.

-Destin

 

Side of the AOS? I can't remember a hose coming out the side. The one I'm talking about is a small 90 degree elbow hose that comes off the top of the AOS and attaches to the metal pipe under the intake.

Personally, I feel that Blitz boost controllers are the best. I have a Dual SBC Spec R in my 951 and Greddy Profec B Spec 2 (geez, can they make the name any longer! ) in my 911. To be honest, you might want to save some money and consider the Dual SBC Spec S instead. It is identical to the Spec R, except for it uses a smaller solenoid. The Spec R solenoid is a much more substantial unit, however it is really designed to support much higher boost pressure (as in 30+psi) so it's benefits would never really be noticed on the average 951 over the Spec S. The SBC-ID uses the same solenoid as the Spec R, however it has a few extra features and has a cool display. If you have lots of money to blow and like cool novelty stuff, Blitz has a new ebc out called the I-Color. It has a full color display, tons of functions, aftermarket sensors for monitoring a/f's and various other features (basically turning it into a simple data logger), and lots of other cool features. They are not cheap though and typically cost in the $600-800 range depending on optional sensors.

As far as the Greddy Profec B Spec 2 goes, it works perfectly fine. It's a decent, reliable unit though there is one thing I don't like about it. As soon as you turn the boost ****, boost levels automatically adjust. On Blitz ebc's, typically you have to press the button in first as a safety measure. It's not that big a deal but, if you accidentally bump the boost controller you can have a serious problem! I know because I overboosted the hell out of my 911 for this very same reason.

The Apexi AVCR is another good one. For the price, I'd rather go with a SBCID, however the AVCR is just as good. It has cool features such as the ability to set the boost level for individual gears, injector pulse monitoring, etc. It's a good unit, though at ~$500 new I think they are a bit too expensive IMO. The Spec R or SBCID both have a much stronger solenoid that can withstand more abuse, so that is definitely something to take into consideration.

The Greddy Profec E-01 is apparently a waste of money. I haven't owned one myself, however I've known several people that have. Once you get over the novelty feature of the cool display, there just really isn't any significant difference or improvement with this EBC to warrant the high price (well over $500 in some cases).

On another note, I'd be leary of some of the older boost controllers you can typically find used on Ebay or from various other sources. Some of the ones I'm talking about are older HKS EVC's (they have a EVC 1, 2, 3, 4, and the new 5), some older Greddy boost controllers, and generally stuff from the 80's to early 90's. Not all of them are bad, however since the natural progression of things is to improve with time, generally the older units aren't as good. Older HKS EVC's have some bad problems with boost spikes and just acting overall inconsistant. From what I understand about the HKS EVC's, it sounds to me like it is very easy to improperly setup the "fuzzy logic" feature of them, which in turn can cause boost issues and inconsistancies. Apparently even the HKS EVC 5 suffers from this issue because of the very particular way you have to setup the unit. You basically have to floor it through several gears I believe(might only be 1 gear), though if you don't use the throttle 100% correct and at the right time, the unit will not "learn" properly and it will only escalate from there. All in all the EVC 5 is a very good ebc, however it's very expensive and tricky to setup.

Overboost, the Dual SBC Spec R is easy to setup. The solenoid of course just has 2 hoses running from it and one electrical connector, and the control unit itself only has two wires I believe (+12v switched and ground). As far as adjusting the unit goes it is fairly simple. Basically just start off slowly increasing the "gain" on it until you reach a decent level. You don't want to go too high as you can cause overboost issues. You also have to make sure to adjust the boost level accordingly because the gain can have an effect on the total boost level. It's really just a trial and error thing, but just make sure to start with some low gain/boost numbers and slowly work your way up. It helps to have a nice, open, deserted highway for this! Setting up the Profec B Spec 2 is basically the same process, except the solenoid is slightly different in the way things connect. As far as generally adjusting "Gain", I honestly do not really understand it from a scientific point of view in a way that I can explain. How much is too much is a good question. As you adjust gain you will notice the spool improve as the solenoid is reacting faster. How much gain is necessary is largely a function of the type of wastegate and turbo that you have. Most Japanese cars seem to run 5-20 in gain according to Blitz's website, however most of those cars also have internal wastegates and various other differences to our setups. I found that on my K26/6 that somewhere around 30-40 on the gain seemed to work just fine and improved spool to the point where I had positive pressure at ~2k rpm (possibly a little lower, can't really remember) and full boost at ~2.7k plus any boost spikes were still under .04bar (under 0.5psi). I think my wastegate is pretty worn out though, so take those numbers with a grain of salt and slowly adjust from the ground up.

 

Thanks for the info Porschefile. After looking at each and taking into consideration what you said I think the Dual SBC Spec-S would be perfect for my needs. Any suggestion on where to buy from? Blitz's web site has it for $360. Also what is the SBC Optional Harness? Do I need it?






Does anyone have further input on this? The thought of my head coming off is kind of freaking me out right now.

 

You're ok, no freaking out needed. Usually, the studs poke out a mm or 2 above the top of the nuts, like Hos says. However, if your nuts backed off by a mm or 2, you would have a massive HG leak and associated problems and it would be finger loose. A typical HG leak is just a hairline -- if the head were lifting a mm or 2, I doubt it would even run. The studs are probably just installed a bit deeper than normal in the block. Porshce didn't seem to be very consistent on that front. Or, someone replaced the studs and installed one a bit deep.

 

This was the cheapest retailer I could find them from Link Also, if you look on Ebay you can usually find them regularly for ~$295. The only thing I can figure that the optional harness might be is for you to hook up one of Blitz's "power meters" or various other electronic gadgets they sell. It's not something you need to make the thing work.

 

I am looking for a good condition CV unit (the brown unit in the picture). If you guys have one for sale, please email me. Duke_premier2004@yahoo.com. My is broken like in the picture causing boost spike like crazy. My Greddy EBC was useless in controlling boost.

Thanks,

Duke

 

You know you can remove the CV when you have an EBC, right?

 

No not really. I am not mechanically inclined so please tell me more....My mechanic is telling me that it's broken and needs a replacement. So what should I do, take it out all together or something? Should the EBC be connected to this unit some how...please let me know so I can tell the guy that i don't need a replacement.

Thanks in advance.

 

This may have been adressed...

When you "flop" the intake over like that, you are needlesly putting excess flex on the injector leads and fuel lines. Exactly what you do not want to fail.

Do yo carry an extinguisher?