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My Winter Project

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Old 11-09-2006, 03:29 PM
  #16  
DDP
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Originally Posted by RolexNJ
Derek:

So now you are going to be working on 2 cars this winter by yourself? You are the man. And that's nice that you found a good engine for the car from a fellow Rennlister, it's always nice to see someone assisting within the community too.

Your car is blue. I have to assume that is not from the factory, or is it? I can't tell by the pics. If it is from the factory, it "appears" to be Baltic Blue, but I can't tell.

The primer. It is on the rubber trim or on metal? Any idea how old it is, or you have no clue? I may have a few ideas. Let me know and good luck with these projects cars, you got your hands full pal.


Rolex,

My other 951 is blue, the factory blue. This car is a repaint, house of kolor pearl black.

The primer is on the window trim, it was there from the recent paint.
Old 11-09-2006, 04:52 PM
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Originally Posted by 9fitty1
Does anyone know what can take primer off? There is some on the window trim I would like to remove. Thanks.
Automotive acrylic thinner (or virtually any paint thinner) should take that off.
Old 11-10-2006, 05:17 PM
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Originally Posted by 9fitty1
Does anyone know what can take primer off? There is some on the window trim I would like to remove. Thanks.
i have taken clearcoat/overspray off with a razor blade before. just make sure to keep the blade "flat" against the glass. If that doesn't work, try claybaring it with a detail kit ( about $15 @ autozone)

P.S. is that a 951? if so i may be interested in the 'finished project'
Old 11-10-2006, 05:30 PM
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Originally Posted by hosrom_951
Automotive acrylic thinner (or virtually any paint thinner) should take that off.
Honestly, that was a noble suggestion Hos, but more than likely that won't help him. What we don't know is how old the paint is, and that's the most important factor. I would assume it is old and fully cured. That being said, paint thinner or gum turpentine wont do squat to it. You can try it, but the paint is cured and is as hard as a rock. Even if you got automotive paint reducer, it still wouldn't touch it.

Derek: Honestly, the best thing to do is what of hockeydude said. That would be your best bet and most conservative approach. I know solvents, in the paint arena, very very well. If I recommend any other solvent, I will guarantee it will eat away, to varying degrees, at the rubber. And I don't want you to chance that. Some solvents, like acetone, would cause rubber to literally melt, but, the paint would be gone! Try exactly what hockeydude said to do, and make sure the blade is flat. Thats the best you can do, otherwise, you need to replace the piece. I hope this helped.
Old 11-10-2006, 05:45 PM
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Thanks for the good word Derek, but you must tell the truth. You now have two motors of mine to play with.

Good luck with the project buddy. Look me up when you've got one of the cars running.
Old 11-10-2006, 06:03 PM
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The primer has certainly has cured, however since Derek is talking about window trim and not window glass, like Hockeydude mistakenly thought, using a razor blade to take primer off of rubber would amount in not much more than a sliced rubber trim peice. So don't try that, unless you just want to replace the peice.

I'd be damn amazed if acrylic thinner melted Derek's trim. The chemical composition of many standard acrylic thinners is mostly toluene, sometimes xylene. If these melted rubber a lot of us would have very leaky fuel systems. Also, acetone doesn't melt rubber per se, it dissolves the resins and oils which are found in the better grades of rubbers in amounts less than ~5 per cent. Meaning at worst you will have a small amount of shrinkage by trying acetone as the resins help provide volume to the rubber. Used sparingly and localized around your problem area, you'd have no problem (and I bet it would work a treat since acrylic thinner is intended specifically for that purpoes). Now, leave a rubber trim peice soaking in acetone for 24 hours and it would be a different story indeed, the peice would probably be distorted and would no longer fit the seal. Regardless, it is always a good idea to perform a test on a non-visible area prior to applying any solvent to any surface.
Old 11-10-2006, 06:09 PM
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Originally Posted by 944 Fanatic
Regardless, it is always a good idea to perform a test on a non-visible area prior to applying any solvent to any surface.
That's the best advice.

Old 11-13-2006, 04:26 PM
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Have you finished your 87?
Old 11-18-2006, 04:56 PM
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Originally Posted by MichelleJD
Have you finished your 87?
THe blue one? Not yet. That car drove me nuts. I decided to take a different route with it and that will be 'finished' after this car. I'm just taking a slight break from it. But don't worry, it'll have a happy ending...a very happy ending.
Old 11-18-2006, 05:11 PM
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Alright well I ran into a couple problems. Two bolts broke off while I was stripping the engine down. The one bolt on the front coolant passage of the block for the head and the other one was an engine mount to block bolt, specifically the allen head bolt on the turbo side. Had to take a trip to the machine shop. All is in the clear now and I started reassembly. I would really like to get an actual parts cleaner because no matter how much time I spend on the parts I just can't ever get them as clean as I would like. Rolled the car out to powerwash the engine bay. I never took any pictures after I powerwashed it for some reason but it came out spaaaakly. Ok...pics....
Old 11-18-2006, 05:13 PM
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So I am resealing everything, rebuilt head is going on, replaced the rod bearings. This motor only has 80k on it and you can tell by the condition of the clyinder walls. Cam tower...
Old 11-18-2006, 07:14 PM
  #27  
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COOL, Now you really have your hands full!
Old 11-18-2006, 07:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Bob Ward
COOL, Now you really have your hands full!
I'm not the one doing T bars now am I?
Old 11-18-2006, 07:52 PM
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Good point, I was thinking about tackling that next!
Old 11-18-2006, 08:12 PM
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If you can wait for a couple weeks, I can give you a hand. Just let me know.


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