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How do you get that d@$# bellhousing off?

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Old 11-07-2006, 08:00 PM
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wi54545
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Default How do you get that d@$# bellhousing off?

I'm well into my clutch job on my '86 951 with a 2pc crossover. Everything to this point has gone easily. I did not have a problem with any of the bolts on the bellhousing, every thing is off of it. Release shaft came out with no problems.

The dang thing is hung up! It is off the dowels on top and bottom. It looks to be hanging on the firewall at that little knobby looking thing. Is there a magic sequence to get this thing off? I'm beyond frustrated and up against a time deadline.


Any suggestions????
Old 11-07-2006, 08:08 PM
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TRP951
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did you pull the ref sensors? is it hitting the firewall on the top portion?
Old 11-07-2006, 08:22 PM
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special tool
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2 ground wires on top, too.
Old 11-07-2006, 08:40 PM
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wi54545
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Ref sensors and ground straps. It is just hanging on the firewall, it won't clear the pressure plate in all directions.
Old 11-07-2006, 08:57 PM
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C. Beau
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That sucks....I've never had a problem....it is tight but I've always just worked it around some and it will come off

Is the torque tube totally out of the way?

Also the aluminum sheeting that looks to be hand hammered into the engine compartment area can be banged in to make a little room
Old 11-07-2006, 09:07 PM
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951 Chuck
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Last time I did this I had the same problem. Ended up removing the pressure plate with the bellhousing loose and taking both out together. Asked at the local repair shop and he confirmed thats how they did it as well.
Old 11-07-2006, 10:22 PM
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wi54545
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951 Chuck,

Great minds must think alike, I hand turned the crank to get to each Pressure plate bolt. Thank goodness they were all easy and I didn't strip any of them. Bellhousings now off!! Thanks all. I love rennlist.
Old 11-07-2006, 11:42 PM
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TRP951
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I was just going to say to let the engine tilt back some if you have a jack supporting it in the rear but good to hear you got it off
Old 11-08-2006, 10:34 AM
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Originally Posted by TRP951
I was just going to say to let the engine tilt back some if you have a jack supporting it in the rear but good to hear you got it off
That’s the cure - you can jack the front of the engine up a tad (be gentle) and the rear will drop it give you more clearance.
Could be a sign of some tired engine mounts….
Old 11-08-2006, 04:32 PM
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wi54545
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The engine mounts are newer, Porsche OEM, no vibration yet. Got the flywheel ground today and some opinions on my clutch fork. The fork is pretty worn on the fingers, so add another 290 bucks to the equation. I've got about 1200 bucks and a hurt back into this project. I am replacing all the bearings, the fork, slave cylinder, Stock pressure plate, 930 disc, throw out bearing, and all the associated hardware including the rear main. I don't want to do this again, and I have had it easy with no stripped flywheel or pressure plate bolts. Lucky me.
Old 11-09-2006, 12:51 PM
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notch the bell housing, get your clutch fixed - notch the bell housing, get your clutch fixed - in the best GEICO commercial tone.

As per a great Chris White recommendation, notch the bell housing where the sensors go through and you won't have to pull them to remove the bell housing.
Old 11-09-2006, 01:09 PM
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C. Beau
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Originally Posted by wi54545
The engine mounts are newer, Porsche OEM, no vibration yet. Got the flywheel ground today and some opinions on my clutch fork. The fork is pretty worn on the fingers, so add another 290 bucks to the equation. I've got about 1200 bucks and a hurt back into this project. I am replacing all the bearings, the fork, slave cylinder, Stock pressure plate, 930 disc, throw out bearing, and all the associated hardware including the rear main. I don't want to do this again, and I have had it easy with no stripped flywheel or pressure plate bolts. Lucky me.
Definitly replace the fork....I thought I wa smart once and replaced the bearings in an old fork (they have their own part #) and ground a new flat set-screw point and flipped pin...put it all back together w/ new sport clutch and not more than 5kmi. later one of the ends of the fork broke off...probably helped by the stronger PP springs

Thought it was a blown slave and pulled the starter to get to fixing it and out dropped that little ear of metal..."oh sh-t I know what that is"

Anybody ever have any issue with getting the fork not behind the proper heavy steel collar / washer but behind one of those peripheral washers on the throwout bearing...so it feels properly placed but turns out its not...I've had that happen...how can I avoid that?....you can't really see anything as you settle the fork and bellhousing simultaneously.



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