Thanks Skip. No race, just DE and I fully agree, the Hoosiers just don't make sense for our pocket either.

 

I run the victoracers on the street and got over 5k street and track out of a set on my old 993.
But I am under the impression that Michelin pilot sport cups are the best, just rather pricey!

 

i bought a set of toyos (full tread for the rain)i had 22 days untill i flat spotted the right rear...they squeal and are very predictable (which i like)where is my hoosiers didnt squeal and before i new it i was off the track...oh by the way i picked up a pair of unshaved toyos 225/50/16 on ebay 2 weeks ago for 202.00(brand new unshaved)

 

I would also recommend highly the Toyo R888's they're the latest R-spec rubber from Toyo and I have found them to be extremely quick to get to temp but not go off and get too greasy feeling. We only do short 5 lap SuperSprints but they are on the circuits ( not car parks )and the Toyo's are great. The Bridgestone RE55's are also meant to be very good.

 

I do DE's and have had my 951 on a strict diet of RA-1's, until a friend informed me about Falken Azenis RT-615's, the Azenis have about the same grip, cost a lot less than the toyos, and last about twice as long.

 

I have run Kumho Victoracers and Toyo RA-1's on my 944 spec car (2600lbs 134 whp, 225/50 R15)

Here are the results from my Victoracers (started in DE then moved to race)

Kumho - All full thread and no heat cycled
Set......Heat Cycles....Duty............. Removal
Set 1 ......13...........DE/Autocross... Corded
Set 2 .......23...........DE...................Corded
Set 3 ......26...........DE...................Corded
Set 4.......18...........Race................Corded
Set 5......15............Race................Corded

Switch to Toyos as Spec Tire
Set 6......48............Race...............Cycled out (From Full tread)
Set 7......39............Race...............Cycled out (From Full Tread)
Set 8......34.............Race...............Cycled out (4/32 shave)
Set 9......31.............Race...............Flat spot (Full tread)
Set 10....32.............Race...............Flat spot (4/32 shave)
Set 11....31.............Race................Flat Spot/Cycled out (4/32 shave)

I have 3 active sets of toyos
.............Heat Cycles
Set 12 ...15 - > Still Racing on these
Set 13... 2 -> Full tread used in rain
Set 14....0 -> Shaved 4/32 new tires

I run the tires down past the wear bars until I either see cord or they cycle out and lose grip. Once they cycle out they could still be used in DE, but a are a bit slick. If you notice as I went on my tires lastes less and less time. I believe it is due to my pushing very hard on the track and "using up" the tires alot more now that 5 years ago.

 

Joe, do you think that you would have got longer life out of the Kumhos had you shaved them as Kumho recommends? How much negative camber do you run in the front for the Toyos?

 

I never had abnormal wear on the Kumho's. No chunking or anything. I also have never seen a shaving directive for the Victoracer. I have seem them for V700's on heavier cars. The Kumho just worn down faster. Remember 2600lbs as raced with me in the car mean 2420-2450lbs for the car alone. The only reason I shave the Toyo is not for life, but to let them be faster a little sooner as they take few heat cycles to into their prime.

I run 3.5 deg negtive in front and 2.5 in the rear. I rotate the tires around all 4 corners each track day to even up the wear. This has proven to ensure that I get very even tire wear on all 4 tires. Tire pressures were optimized for Kumho and Toyo life and grip with even wear on across the tire as well. Hot pressures were 33 psi in the Kumho and 39 psi in the Toyo.