kevincnc

I thought some of you might be interested to see how I installed mine. I didn't have to make any new holes or cuts in the car this way.

The fist picture shows the new solenoid valve mounted where the original cycling valve was. The bracket was make out of aluminum sheet, mounted with the original screws. The manual says to mount it in as cool a place as possible, so I made the bracket wrap around as an attempt at a heat shield. I have no idea if it will help or if it's even necessary. Time will tell if it's too hot there I guess. It seems to me that if 20 year old technology survives there, a new one should. For vibration isolation, it's mounted with Rubber grommets from the hardware store. I made steel t-bushing type sleeves to sandwich the grommet between the screw head and the bracket, similar to how the airbox is mounted.

The Profec manual says to leave the third port open, but I installed a breather to keep dirt out instead. As it turns out, I had it hooked up wrong. Pressure from the banjo bolt at the I/CA pipe was supposed to go into the top port, as shown in the second picture with the intake back on. Luckily I had already tapped the top port 1/8" NPT for the breather, so I was able to just screw in a 90 degree barb fitting from a local pneumatics supplier. The hose was barely long enough to reach the top, so it will be replaced next time the intake is off. Also, the stock cycling valve vents back into the jo-boot so I think this one should also. I'll try that also next time I can get to it unless someone has a reason it should just vent to atmosphere.

The original plan was to use the cycling valve power wires as shown in the first picture with shrink-tube over the connector. I decided later to run new wires through the firewall wiring harness grommet on the drivers side, to make it easier to put back to stock if I ever want to.

The third picture shows where I tee'd into the KLR line for the EBC and Boost gauge. That's the same Porsche vac line 4-way tee that's used at the intake.

The fourth picture shows the bracket that came with the solenoid for mounting, bent at the end and mounted with an existing screw. It holds nice and tight, but allows the controller to be slid out a little for easier adjusting. The vac line, power wires, and valve wires fit through the slots in the back of the glove box.

The last picture shows where I tapped into the radio power wire for the EBC and pillar gauges. I'll probably get flamed for using the insulation-displacement thingy's, but I've always had good luck with them and they don't require cutting of the original wiring.

I hope this helps someone

951Boost

Niiiice!!! You get 3 of these and one of these for that.

Thanks for the write-up, I'll be doing that (along quite a few other things) this winter.

hot-J

wow everything in your engine bay is clean, how many miles on the car?

kevincnc

Lou- what are you going to do to yours? I'm really happy with my new stealth MAF.
hot-J- It has 30K now, but I cheated on the shinyness. See this thread-
https://rennlist.com/forums/924-931-944-951-968-forum/264290-my-engine-bay-restoration-hose-replacement-tune-up-etc-with-pictures.html
That reminds me I still have to finish that one.

951Boost

Oh boy, long list but on the related subject; I got a used VR MAF that I want to install along with a TIAL and the Profec B. And since I'm in there and need to change injectors (the MAF S/W is for 72#) I'll install the LR fuel rail and SS fuel lines I got during the last GB, get my intake Jethot coated, rebuild my TB.....plus I recently realized my turbo is leaking oil and has some end play........ The rest of the list (long!) are "wants" not "needs" (well other than brakes and taking care of some stupid PS hose leaks) so those can wait. Also my sports seats (got those used too) can't "really" wait...I'll be getting those redone during the winter too.

It's a good thing I reeeeally love my car

cb951

First of all --
Incredible looking engine bay! And nice Profec installation, too.


Second --
Do you have a part number for the 4-way tee?

Thanks.

ibkevin

Very nice install Kevin! The bracket/heat sheild is a great idea.

And that engine bay is just disgusting...

WIWIT, I removed the cycling valve and "octopus" tubing and did the venturi delete, it really cleaned the area up. But since your stuff is soo damn shiny, it would be a shame to pull it.

I've been going through my notes because I swear that I read that a loss of 12v to the Spec II's will result in a max boost condition, so depending on your WG, you may want to do a dab of solder on your clips. I'm not sure if this condition affects all the Profec's the same way.

kevincnc

Thanks guys. Chris, I'll try to find that P/N for you tonight. Kevin, since the N/O port is used for a single port WG, no signal makes the WG open. I don't know about the Spec II though. BTW I've been resisting the urge to shine up my wheels, seeing yours doesn't help

cb951

Thanks, Kevin. I really appreciate it. Any luck yet?

kevincnc

Okay I finally found it. P/N 928.573.729.02. I paid $8.34.

cb951

Thanks very much. I appreciate the time you took to check.

clouddomino

So far how has tuning been with the Greddy Unit? I'm looking for a electronic boost controller, and everyone seems to like the Blitz SBC units. But I'm wondering what the deal is with everything else...

Porschefile

I'm using the Profec B Spec 2 on my 911. It works just fine, though it is a bit more detailed and tricky to setup compared to some stuff (like the Blitz units). Regardless, it still performs well, is very consistant when setup right and is reliable. The Apexi AVC-R and HKS EVC 5 are also good quality EBC's, though the EVC 5 is probably the toughest to setup correctly. After using several Blitz EBC's, I'm sold on them so I'm a bit biased.

kevincnc

I've heard that the Spec 2 can be difficult to set up, but is probably better for cars with lots of power because you can set it for less boost in lower gears to control wheelspin. The Type S is very simple with just boost and gain *****, and boost is very consistent.