Rennbay Headlight Harness 951 Install Q’s
#1
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Rennbay Headlight Harness 951 Install Q’s
I’ve done some searches on the subject and still have a few of Questions on a 951 install;
1) Where is the stock "signal plug" (see pic) located? I assumed it would be close to the driver side strut (by the alternator) but I couldn't find it.
2) To the folks who have successfully removed the alt. cover without removing the alternator; What’s the trick for getting to that third nut? From the bottom of the car? I already removed the AFM, J boot etc., etc. was trying to avoid pulling the alt.
3) To access the passenger side headlamp wiring run does one need to remove the bumper cover or can the entire run be reached from underneath the car? I would like to remove entire stock pass side harness run and replace it with the Rennbay.
Sorry for what seem to be obvious questions but had a MISERABLE wrenching day on the P car yesterday and would like to make up some time tomorrow.
TIA
1) Where is the stock "signal plug" (see pic) located? I assumed it would be close to the driver side strut (by the alternator) but I couldn't find it.
2) To the folks who have successfully removed the alt. cover without removing the alternator; What’s the trick for getting to that third nut? From the bottom of the car? I already removed the AFM, J boot etc., etc. was trying to avoid pulling the alt.
3) To access the passenger side headlamp wiring run does one need to remove the bumper cover or can the entire run be reached from underneath the car? I would like to remove entire stock pass side harness run and replace it with the Rennbay.
Sorry for what seem to be obvious questions but had a MISERABLE wrenching day on the P car yesterday and would like to make up some time tomorrow.
TIA
#2
Three Wheelin'
The stock signal plug is what normally plugs into the stock headlight bulb.
From the bottom with a socket on a quarter drive wobble extension is best way to get cover nut.
I cant help with 3 because I ran the wires in a different place, which is what most people seem to do for convenience.
From the bottom with a socket on a quarter drive wobble extension is best way to get cover nut.
I cant help with 3 because I ran the wires in a different place, which is what most people seem to do for convenience.
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Mark thanks for the response. I'm a little confused. As I understand it pic "F" plugs into the headlights.
Pic "A" plugs into the original headlight harness (female plug).
I'm trying to locate the factory female plug to wich "A" plugs into.
Thanks-
Pic "A" plugs into the original headlight harness (female plug).
I'm trying to locate the factory female plug to wich "A" plugs into.
Thanks-
#4
Three Wheelin'
Plug A into the thing that plugs into the stock headlights. Then plug F into the headlight now that A is plugged into what used to go there. A little confusing but it will make sense
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Doh! Thanks. I was ASSuming there was a connector somewhere along the strut area that had that “A” shape....there I go again....out-thinking simple stuff & making it harder than they need to be.
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Originally Posted by reno808
hey tell me how it is i want to buy it in the winter. Little winter project....
I would give it;
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#8
I have a harness from Rennbay as well, and will second its quality. Nice stuff, and its from a GREAT vendor!
Regards,
Regards,
#9
I've got the original Iceshark kit (which is very similar to, and the inspiration for the Rennbay kit when the Iceshark kit was very unfortunatly 'discontinued'). It's well worth the money, and I'd spend it in a heartbeat if I could find a similar kit for my Jeep.
As for that horrible screw on the alternator housing....it will ruin your day. Without that one screw, the installation would've taken 1/2 as long for me. I ended up just getting it from underneeth...but I also don't have a turbo. I ended up having to do it a 2nd time after my uprated voltage regulator (an unnessesary part of the iceshark which rennbay wisely decided to skip) quit on me, and found that removing the alternator was 100x easier. Took me about 1/3 as long to just remove the alternator than to try and do it all with it in place.
And as for running the wires...it can be done with the car together...it's just hard to see what you're doing. But as long as the wires are out of sight and not hitting any moving parts (just the fans & headlight mechanisms to worry about)...you're fine.
Also, a note on a lesson learned....check, double-check and check again in 2 weeks if the pigtails of wire going to the bulbs are clear of the bucket mechanism. I had to re-adjust the wires running into the bulbs a few times until i got it right.
As for that horrible screw on the alternator housing....it will ruin your day. Without that one screw, the installation would've taken 1/2 as long for me. I ended up just getting it from underneeth...but I also don't have a turbo. I ended up having to do it a 2nd time after my uprated voltage regulator (an unnessesary part of the iceshark which rennbay wisely decided to skip) quit on me, and found that removing the alternator was 100x easier. Took me about 1/3 as long to just remove the alternator than to try and do it all with it in place.
And as for running the wires...it can be done with the car together...it's just hard to see what you're doing. But as long as the wires are out of sight and not hitting any moving parts (just the fans & headlight mechanisms to worry about)...you're fine.
Also, a note on a lesson learned....check, double-check and check again in 2 weeks if the pigtails of wire going to the bulbs are clear of the bucket mechanism. I had to re-adjust the wires running into the bulbs a few times until i got it right.
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Thanks for the advice Scott. The installation is not complete as it seems that there is always something else I notice (or breaks) while "I'm in there" and I go off on that tangent. I will keep your suggestions in mind.