Bilstein, Boge, Koni?
#1
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I know there have been numerous debates on this, but never really a clear suggestion in regards to "most bang for the buck"
Also, for 95% street driving???
Also, for 95% street driving???
#2
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Bilstein inserts.
Less expensive and teeth-shattering that complete Bilstein Cups, better quality and less expensive than Koni M030.
This the best solution you will find if not going as far as serious stuff such as KW, Moton, etc.
IMO anyway.
Less expensive and teeth-shattering that complete Bilstein Cups, better quality and less expensive than Koni M030.
This the best solution you will find if not going as far as serious stuff such as KW, Moton, etc.
IMO anyway.
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Excellent!! that the exact type of info I was looking for ![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
I have Knoi yellows now and they are on their last leg.
I don't think I really need all that since the car is daily driver and might only see a few DE events here and there.
Would just changing the fronts make a big difference or should I do all 4 at once?
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I have Knoi yellows now and they are on their last leg.
I don't think I really need all that since the car is daily driver and might only see a few DE events here and there.
Would just changing the fronts make a big difference or should I do all 4 at once?
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Depends how fast you drive on the road.
As you may already know badly worn out rear shocks will make the rear left side and rear side bounce out of phase at "certain" speeds when performing direction changes, which can prove difficult to control and even dangerous on average surfaces because of the high moment of inertia induced by the transaxle architecture.
You can always fit the front inserts first and decide afterwards if you need to replace the rear shocks as well.
The drawback with Bilstein inserts is that you will need 83-86 944 struts ; the inserts are screwed from the top of the strut contrary to Koni's which can be screwed into the strut only from below.
As you may already know badly worn out rear shocks will make the rear left side and rear side bounce out of phase at "certain" speeds when performing direction changes, which can prove difficult to control and even dangerous on average surfaces because of the high moment of inertia induced by the transaxle architecture.
You can always fit the front inserts first and decide afterwards if you need to replace the rear shocks as well.
The drawback with Bilstein inserts is that you will need 83-86 944 struts ; the inserts are screwed from the top of the strut contrary to Koni's which can be screwed into the strut only from below.
#5
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I like the koni yellows for the $$$
Ive used Billies and Konis.
Koni will usually warantee/replace your shocks for a smaller fee than new ones, try contacting them.
I sent mine back once and they were only 1.5% outside of new spec on their shock dyno after 25,000 hard track/street miles.
J
Ive used Billies and Konis.
Koni will usually warantee/replace your shocks for a smaller fee than new ones, try contacting them.
I sent mine back once and they were only 1.5% outside of new spec on their shock dyno after 25,000 hard track/street miles.
J
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Originally Posted by Thom
Depends how fast you drive on the road.
As you may already know badly worn out rear shocks will make the rear left side and rear side bounce out of phase at "certain" speeds when performing direction changes, which can prove difficult to control and even dangerous on average surfaces because of the high moment of inertia induced by the transaxle architecture.
You can always fit the front inserts first and decide afterwards if you need to replace the rear shocks as well.
The drawback with Bilstein inserts is that you will need 83-86 944 struts ; the inserts are screwed from the top of the strut contrary to Koni's which can be screwed into the strut only from below.
As you may already know badly worn out rear shocks will make the rear left side and rear side bounce out of phase at "certain" speeds when performing direction changes, which can prove difficult to control and even dangerous on average surfaces because of the high moment of inertia induced by the transaxle architecture.
You can always fit the front inserts first and decide afterwards if you need to replace the rear shocks as well.
The drawback with Bilstein inserts is that you will need 83-86 944 struts ; the inserts are screwed from the top of the strut contrary to Koni's which can be screwed into the strut only from below.
So I guess Boge is not even a consideration?
So the Bilstien inserts can not be installed with my curent struts that have the Koni inserts?
Didn't the non S modesl come stock with Bilstiens?
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I put brand new boge inserts in my 951 awhile back to get me through school. I just pulled them out to replace them with koni's, and with about 5k miles on them, they would compress in, and not come back out at all! Pure crap.
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I installed Koni inserts into SACHS struts, and am very happy with them. I thought I read somewhere that with the Bilstein insert, the shaft is actaully smaller in circumference than the Koni?
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Todd, jwl did the Paragon kit for the Koni inserts on his car, even sanded and painted the struts yellow - very clean, he has Koni adjustables on rear, 220# springs on the front, car is very nice.
The track car of course is on full CO race Koni's - don't want to afford them every year!!!
I've got Bilstein on my car but this fall going to full CO on the front from LR, Firehawk struts and camber plates to match the new rear HD Bilstein I put on last year.
The track car of course is on full CO race Koni's - don't want to afford them every year!!!
I've got Bilstein on my car but this fall going to full CO on the front from LR, Firehawk struts and camber plates to match the new rear HD Bilstein I put on last year.
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Originally Posted by HIGHBOOST
I installed Koni inserts into SACHS struts, and am very happy with them. I thought I read somewhere that with the Bilstein insert, the shaft is actaully smaller in circumference than the Koni?
IIRC the shaft on the bilstein is the larger one. The koni is smaller.
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I am struggling with my Koni yellows in the rear. Over bumpy surfaces they do not offer much control in the corners especially when I start squeezing on the power. I have 29mm torsion bars and when I go to a stiffer shock setting the car seems to bounce off the bumps. The shocks are fairly new. If I go to softer settings it tends to bottom out. I cannot find a setting in the middle that works well.
#15
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I have the same problem as rcatherton. I noticed it on exit ramps, the rear of the car skips and does not feel planted. I have 30mm torsion bars and had the shocks at full stiff. I just dialed them back to about 75% stiff but have not had enough time on them to comment.
Mark
Mark