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Lart,
You've seen enough of these things to know. Was the tube at the flange in the second pic rewelded at some point? Looks to be, based on the fillet size
Lart,
You've seen enough of these things to know. Was the tube at the flange in the second pic rewelded at some point? Looks to be, based on the fillet size
Good header $100+; integrity priceless
interesting they do look that way, they came from this car.
So...I did acquire these headers via eBay..paid $125.00, thought they were not cracked, as a matter of fact I had them media blasted and painted with a hi-temp exhaust paint. They look awesome, the only problem is that turned out to be severley cracked...I will try and post a few pics later of the engine and headers.
Jay, these may be coming your way as I met with a mechanic this morning that can remove them early next week...How is your schedule next week??
Jay, these may be coming your way as I met with a mechanic this morning that can remove them early next week...How is your schedule next week??
Appreciate all of the feedback..
=dan=
Ready and waiting for ya... I can have em done in 1-2 day turn around.
Heres the pics I promised.
You can see the weld around the flange, and the repair I fixed at the joint, along with the added stabilizer pipe...
I can't guarantee it will look EXACTLY like that, but it will be extremely close. Every job is a little different, but as you can see I dont do **** work.
I used to make/sell these nifty shift linkages too, I try to do stuff to 100% quality man, its what Id expect of someone doing the same for my parts.
Custom heim joint short throw shifter setup
Lemme know, and if yer happy, spread the word. I love to eat Im pretty broke lately. I fell off the P-car map cuz I got burnt out on working on cars constantly (at that time I had 6 running cars, 2 of which were P-cars) and I broke my T5/T6 vertebrae when I was 18 and it really got me down from being in chronic pain and not being able to work on my projekt wasserkooler...
Quote "When the dyno testing was all said and done, Don was right about the top end--the headers lost a few horsepower with the factory turbo-back exhaust system retained. But, much to our surprise, the gains in the low end were substantial. Between 3000 to 4000 rpm, the car was able to maintain between 17 to 18 more whp than with the factory headers, indicating a tremendous jump in low- and midrange torque of about 30 lb-ft, thanks to the boost kicking in a little sooner. What this header system essentially did was shift the power curve slightly to the left, which is nice for tightly turned racetracks and autocrosses, where torque is crucial, or even around-town driveability. However, it isn't be what you want for high-speed, straight-line performance"
The SFR stage 1 headers look like a similar design to the B&B ones...
Look similiar but the fact is we spend the $$$$ to buy nice collectors.We dont just chop two peices of pipe and weld them together like some other companies do.JME has dynoed the stage 1 headers and seen 10 horsepower on a completely stock 944T
Look similiar but the fact is we spend the $$$$ to buy nice collectors.We dont just chop two peices of pipe and weld them together like some other companies do.JME has dynoed the stage 1 headers and seen 10 horsepower on a completely stock 944T
Tim
Holy sheet...Its TurboTim... Glad to see yer still alive.
Last time I saw you John Anderson had just gone over 500HP on his black beater, man... memories!!!
I just picked up some stage 1 SFR headers - In your guys opinions - how important is the expansion piece on the stock headers (I have an 89) compared to a SFR stage 1?
I do open lapping days, maybe 3-5 times a year. I plan to have the SFR headers Swain coated if I decide to use them. Thoughts on longevity?
I had a set of the SFR Stage 1s that were on my track only car. After about 18 months I had to re-weld them once each segment in the 'Y'. After the re-weld they held up until I upgraded to the Stage 2, they have their own set of issues.
What I understand, the higher the boost the higher the exhaust temp. Not sure what stock can handle seeing how factory psi will crack them after many years and miles. I would think 321 stainless steel would be the best material to use no matter design(broadfoot,speed force, custom fab) and super high psi I would be considering stage two but only in 321ss. Lindsey uses 301ss and only stage one headers, I'm sure they could use 321 for more psi but the crossover would be the weak link then. I would think Lindsey headers are great for a replacement say up to 16 psi and a good price. If you plan on running more psi I would consider going to stage two and using 321ss due to the massive heat. That is just if you don't want to keep welding. I just keep welding because those are just out of my pocket change range. I plan on sending my crossover pipe to Lindsey and have them two piece it. Then have two sets of factory headers until I can afford there stage one headers. If I had the $ I would go with SFR equal length runners made in double slip fitting made of 321ss or broadfoot headers in 321ss. They both look very nice and I'm sure are very effective! But lots of $!
Also another good update would be the crossover itself. I ditched my 86 and 87 crossover for the 88 turbo s 89 turbo crossover with the one piece double collector flange for the headers to mount flush to. I notice on the other crossovers the two piece flange setup would warp. Just a little bit, that's a lot at the top where the header bolts to the head and puts stress on the headers.
Crossover on top is the one you want from 88 89 model years. 87 is on the bottom. 86 is like the 87 but all one piece to the wastegate(big pain in the ars to work with!).
Do you have solid motor mounts? If so you may have to lossen the mounts and jack up on the passanger side of the oil pan(with a block of wood to spread the weight over the fins and lightly!!!). I have rubber mounts still, so I use a pry bar between the head and header because there is a little give. Yea I know, but it works and I don't scar the matting surface. It's the 1-4 header isn't it? Those are always the hard one! Before you put a new one back on see if you can remove the studs and grind them down a little. There is plenty of meat on them past the nut. Just an idea.
08-22-2006, 01:54 AM
Im pretty broke lately. I fell off the P-car map cuz I got burnt out on working on cars constantly (at that time I had 6 running cars, 2 of which were P-cars) and I broke my T5/T6 vertebrae when I was 18 and it really got me down from being in chronic pain and not being able to work on my projekt wasserkooler... 
