Low volts = Hesitation?
#16
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Originally Posted by Musche
When I had low voltage readings I would notice erratic behavior of all the gauges and average performance. I did two things, 1) clean the grounds on the back of the engine where the heater valve is located and added a ground strap from here to the firewall, and 2) clean the battery cables at the battery especially the smaller cables that attach to the side of the positive terminal and replaced the bolts that secure them. These were very corroded underneath where you couldn't see and the bolts were weak from corrosion. What a difference in the car! It starts right away, gauges read true, no dimming of lights, etc. I swear it seems like it has more giddyup than before. Something to check, anyway.
What part od MD are you in? I grew up in St. Mary's Co.
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My first repsonse to any electrical gremlin issues will now always be:
Replace your battery to block ground cable.
I've been chasing gremlins for the last two years, and while there were a number of smaller problems, the biggest was the ground cable. I gained over 1V in charging voltage just by replacing it. I stripped back the insulation at the block terminal and found corrosion for about 3-4 inches up the cable.
Also, if you don't have a good cable from battery to body (the short one that bolts to the inside of the battery box area) you'll get all kinds of screwiness in your gauges. I left mine off accidentally and saw exactly what you described.
Replace your battery to block ground cable.
I've been chasing gremlins for the last two years, and while there were a number of smaller problems, the biggest was the ground cable. I gained over 1V in charging voltage just by replacing it. I stripped back the insulation at the block terminal and found corrosion for about 3-4 inches up the cable.
Also, if you don't have a good cable from battery to body (the short one that bolts to the inside of the battery box area) you'll get all kinds of screwiness in your gauges. I left mine off accidentally and saw exactly what you described.
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Ok, Crash, I will check that also.
Where is the ground on the block?
I also am running the Huntley MAF/ARC2 like you. How did your tuning go???
Where is the ground on the block?
I also am running the Huntley MAF/ARC2 like you. How did your tuning go???
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#20
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I'm not positive of the factory location for the ground, but mine is connected just about dead center at the top back, right under the heater valve. It's an inch or two from the two smaller brown cable grounds.
Once I put that in, everything started working correctly. I haven't been able to spend much time tuning, but I can tell you it's a MUCH different animal now.
I think the ARC2 must be very sensitive to voltage changes as I was able to drive around with the stock AFM (although still not up to par) while trying to sort out my electrical problems, but not with the MAF hooked up.
Once I put that in, everything started working correctly. I haven't been able to spend much time tuning, but I can tell you it's a MUCH different animal now.
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I think the ARC2 must be very sensitive to voltage changes as I was able to drive around with the stock AFM (although still not up to par) while trying to sort out my electrical problems, but not with the MAF hooked up.