Cheating at Emissions
#16
Three Wheelin'
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Chapstick951:
The problem you are seeing is with how the O2 sensor and the WB AF gage operate. The big issue is that the power supply circuitry in these inexpensive WB gages is not regulated. Consequently when the vehicle's system voltage drops (like when you run the A/C, headlights, fog lights, rear window defroster), the reference voltage to the comparators in the WB gage also drops and you get a lean indication.
I've had a WB gage for a long time, and I was freaking out right after I installed it in my old '84 NA. During the day it read OK, but at night, or when the A/C was on it indicated lean. Since it was a new gage, and I had just had the emissions checked, I decided to test the signal at the O2 sensor. When I determined that the sensor was doing what it should be doing I realized what was going on.
The easiest thing to do is use a DVM to read the O2 sensor out put at the connector and then bounce those readings against your WB gage.
The problem you are seeing is with how the O2 sensor and the WB AF gage operate. The big issue is that the power supply circuitry in these inexpensive WB gages is not regulated. Consequently when the vehicle's system voltage drops (like when you run the A/C, headlights, fog lights, rear window defroster), the reference voltage to the comparators in the WB gage also drops and you get a lean indication.
I've had a WB gage for a long time, and I was freaking out right after I installed it in my old '84 NA. During the day it read OK, but at night, or when the A/C was on it indicated lean. Since it was a new gage, and I had just had the emissions checked, I decided to test the signal at the O2 sensor. When I determined that the sensor was doing what it should be doing I realized what was going on.
The easiest thing to do is use a DVM to read the O2 sensor out put at the connector and then bounce those readings against your WB gage.
#18
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I think you're missing my point - if you're blowing clean air (per their standards) out the tailpipe with or without a cat or such-and-such an aftermarket part, who gives a flying fig?
If the goal is clean air, then test for clean air. All the other B.S. is strictly for power/money interests.
BTW I believe it costs a LOT of money for an aftermarket parts manufacturer to get a "CARB approved" stamp on a part. Wonder why that is. . . hmmmmm. . .
If the goal is clean air, then test for clean air. All the other B.S. is strictly for power/money interests.
BTW I believe it costs a LOT of money for an aftermarket parts manufacturer to get a "CARB approved" stamp on a part. Wonder why that is. . . hmmmmm. . .
#19
Pro
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It is the same reason that ski resorts still require snowboarders to use a leash. Those of you who ride know what I am talking about. It comes down to staying with what is familiar, easier to enforce and keeps things consistant.
#20
Burning Brakes
Join Date: Nov 2003
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Charlotte,
I can't remember exactly, but the numbers were very close to passing. HC was half the limit, Nox was a hair under (limit of 1400 i think?) and the CO was .46 with a limit of .44 at 15mph and at the limit of .5 at 25mph.
After fixing a disconnected vacuum line and replacing some electrical stuff it failed CO again and both NOx limits....but it was also a much hotter day out.
I'm probably going to send it to a shop since I know I've got something wrong with my #4 cylinder but don't feel like figuring it out. That plug was black with carbon build up on it and the other three looked perfect.
Sorry for the hijack btw.
I can't remember exactly, but the numbers were very close to passing. HC was half the limit, Nox was a hair under (limit of 1400 i think?) and the CO was .46 with a limit of .44 at 15mph and at the limit of .5 at 25mph.
After fixing a disconnected vacuum line and replacing some electrical stuff it failed CO again and both NOx limits....but it was also a much hotter day out.
I'm probably going to send it to a shop since I know I've got something wrong with my #4 cylinder but don't feel like figuring it out. That plug was black with carbon build up on it and the other three looked perfect.
Sorry for the hijack btw.
#21
Pro
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Originally Posted by skene
Sorry for the hijack btw.
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#22
Rennlist Member
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Originally Posted by Ski
There are many stations, Memphis TN is one, that just stick the probe up the tailpipe. If all is good, you get your slip of paper and out the door, they don't look under the car or open the hood. All though my car is registered at the condo in Germantown, I recently went by a Memphis test station and passed the sniffer. Car was at 14.7 - 14.9 on the WBO2, I had the A/C on, temp gauge was just above the first white mark. I really feel sorry for you guys and gals in CA.
#27
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CA does that now. It's part of the standard smog check (test the cap).
I've heard of people doing the fake cat/gutted cat thing. Probably pretty easy to get away with, but why risk it? It takes only a couple hours to bolt a real cat up, pass your smog and then (if you really want to) another couple hours to drop it out again.
I've heard of people doing the fake cat/gutted cat thing. Probably pretty easy to get away with, but why risk it? It takes only a couple hours to bolt a real cat up, pass your smog and then (if you really want to) another couple hours to drop it out again.
#28
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If you are failing emissions by a small margin, one thing you might want to consider is if you had the cat up to optimum operating temperature. The cat is less effective at lower operating temperatures. I took my 89 through emissions with the cat on and they had to stop the test to recalibrate the equipment and the car was off for about 15 minutes. They then started it up and it failed by a very small margin. I took it to get retested the next day and made sure it was hot before I tested and it passed with no change in equipment.