Advice needed, Rod nut hitting oil sump insert
08-14-2006, 02:54 PM
#16
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Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Chris White
For crank scrapers to work well they need to be very close tolerance (clearance). With all the various stock parts (forged vs cast rods) there will be some clearancing work needed.
Not to sound too condescending – but if you are building a performance engine you should expect to ‘blueprint’ things like this. If you want a true ‘fitted’ scraper you would be paying somebody to do exactly what you just did – not the under $100 price of the IJ scraper.
“What I consider is a crap is when you spend thos many many hours fiting and filing you spin the crank countless times when your supposed to be finshed and ONLY when you torque to spec does it rub...It makes no sense what so ever.”
So you fitted the scraper without torquing the girdle/scraper nuts…I guess you don’t understand some of the basics of engine building. Either that or you are saying that it only rubs when the pan is torqued to spec – I do not believe that the 7lb of oil pan bolt torque will move the crank scraper. Where is it hitting now? I will believe that the torqued oil pan will move a bent oil pick up.
So – before you go bashing a vendor please figure out what you are doing wrong. I don’t think you have figured it out yet...........
Chris White
Not to sound too condescending – but if you are building a performance engine you should expect to ‘blueprint’ things like this. If you want a true ‘fitted’ scraper you would be paying somebody to do exactly what you just did – not the under $100 price of the IJ scraper.
“What I consider is a crap is when you spend thos many many hours fiting and filing you spin the crank countless times when your supposed to be finshed and ONLY when you torque to spec does it rub...It makes no sense what so ever.”
So you fitted the scraper without torquing the girdle/scraper nuts…I guess you don’t understand some of the basics of engine building. Either that or you are saying that it only rubs when the pan is torqued to spec – I do not believe that the 7lb of oil pan bolt torque will move the crank scraper. Where is it hitting now? I will believe that the torqued oil pan will move a bent oil pick up.
So – before you go bashing a vendor please figure out what you are doing wrong. I don’t think you have figured it out yet...........
Chris White
Will I make more? No doubt what so ever. However I do get a burr up my butt when ANYONE tells me that I don't have the where with all to be critical of any 944 vendor!!
I earned the right to criticizes this product the hard way I spent my time and money($134) followed the vendors instructions to the letter and yes that included torque (The main bearing nuts to there proper value when fitting) and it rubs ONLY WHEN THE PAN IS TORQUED DOWN...It makes absolutly no sense to me...All I know for a fact is with the crank scraper REMOVED there is NO rubbing..
I have already spent far to much time and compromised my schedule analyzing what the problem is and I can only logicaly conclude that the pan or baffle is applying pressure to the scraper to allow the rod nut to come in contact with the scraper.
That is what I have learned so far and after all is said and done this is a learing process for me that is why I am sharing so we can all learn from each others mistakes. Is that not what this forum supposed to be about?
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08-14-2006, 04:34 PM
#17
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Get a tub of assembly lube, and start gobbing it here and there then assembling everything, then looking for the matching smear to see where its hitting.
When you install the oil pan, are you sure its lining up correctly? Are the bolt holes all even? I see the design has changed to the rounded end there, but check to make sure it isnt hitting the side of the pan and pushing it forward or to one side in another spot. Also check to make sure that the raised up bolt holes (in the upper right of the black baffle in your pic) isnt hitting anything. I had to grind one down, otherwise it hit the scraper and cocked the pan at an angle. Ill post some pics to show what I modified.
The crank scraper is an excellent product. If you find issues, take lots of pics and send him a NICE email stating what happened. After all, he cant fix anything if you just sit on a forum ranting that a custom engine part doesnt fit flawlessly.
When you install the oil pan, are you sure its lining up correctly? Are the bolt holes all even? I see the design has changed to the rounded end there, but check to make sure it isnt hitting the side of the pan and pushing it forward or to one side in another spot. Also check to make sure that the raised up bolt holes (in the upper right of the black baffle in your pic) isnt hitting anything. I had to grind one down, otherwise it hit the scraper and cocked the pan at an angle. Ill post some pics to show what I modified.
The crank scraper is an excellent product. If you find issues, take lots of pics and send him a NICE email stating what happened. After all, he cant fix anything if you just sit on a forum ranting that a custom engine part doesnt fit flawlessly.
08-15-2006, 08:11 AM
#18
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Originally Posted by Buckaroo Banzi
I may not be the engine builder you are, nor do I make any claim as to my knowledge or proficiency. Have I made some bone head mistakes? You betcha!
Will I make more? No doubt what so ever. However I do get a burr up my butt when ANYONE tells me that I don't have the where with all to be critical of any 944 vendor!!
I earned the right to criticizes this product the hard way I spent my time and money($134) followed the vendors instructions to the letter and yes that included torque (The main bearing nuts to there proper value when fitting) and it rubs ONLY WHEN THE PAN IS TORQUED DOWN...It makes absolutly no sense to me...All I know for a fact is with the crank scraper REMOVED there is NO rubbing..
I have already spent far to much time and compromised my schedule analyzing what the problem is and I can only logicaly conclude that the pan or baffle is applying pressure to the scraper to allow the rod nut to come in contact with the scraper.
That is what I have learned so far and after all is said and done this is a learing process for me that is why I am sharing so we can all learn from each others mistakes. Is that not what this forum supposed to be about?
Will I make more? No doubt what so ever. However I do get a burr up my butt when ANYONE tells me that I don't have the where with all to be critical of any 944 vendor!!
I earned the right to criticizes this product the hard way I spent my time and money($134) followed the vendors instructions to the letter and yes that included torque (The main bearing nuts to there proper value when fitting) and it rubs ONLY WHEN THE PAN IS TORQUED DOWN...It makes absolutly no sense to me...All I know for a fact is with the crank scraper REMOVED there is NO rubbing..
I have already spent far to much time and compromised my schedule analyzing what the problem is and I can only logicaly conclude that the pan or baffle is applying pressure to the scraper to allow the rod nut to come in contact with the scraper.
That is what I have learned so far and after all is said and done this is a learing process for me that is why I am sharing so we can all learn from each others mistakes. Is that not what this forum supposed to be about?
I would still try a find out what is happening – an important lesson in engine building is that all problems need to be resolved – not just made to disappear. The rubbing could be caused by something else and the scraper is just the last link. I am sure your project means enough to you that you won’t want to be driving around wondering if it was the scrapper or was it the scrapper hitting something that was out of position for another reason.
I would be glad to toss out some thoughts if you want to give a little more info – Are you felling a little ‘drag’ on the crank or does it come to a halt when it hits? Is it hitting metal or the Teflon?
The first step I would do is to turned the crank until it hits and then take off the pan to see the crank position – this will narrow down the source of the contact. You really need to find this out even if you don’t use the scrapper.
Sure, it is possible that you have some odd combination of factory parts that cause this – but there are a lot of IJ scrapers out there that don’t hit. If it is a rod nut hitting the scraper than add a little clearance there – that is part of the install process. (I still have the same ‘logical’ hard time believing that the scraper is being moved by the 7lbs of torque on the pan bolts.)
Good luck, Chris White
