Handling/Suspension issue????
#16
Most likely, your struts are toast. Since the shocks dont have the ability to dampen the weight transfer of the cars' body when you swing the steering wheel, it gives you the floaty feeling you are experiencing. If you drive the car this way long enogh, your springs will also suffer. If you have Koni yellows, they may be rebuildable thru true choice motorsports. They used to be able to convert them to side **** adjustable (rears) so that you did not have to take them down to adjust.
I would recomend Ledas, which is what I have. the adjustability range is far greater than the Konis and the shock reaction also better controls the suspension movement. They are also rebuildable.
Hope it helps
Jpr
I would recomend Ledas, which is what I have. the adjustability range is far greater than the Konis and the shock reaction also better controls the suspension movement. They are also rebuildable.
Hope it helps
Jpr
#17
Three Wheelin'
What condition are your castor blocks in? If you have the stock type and they are really worn, that can cause all kinds of odd handling issues. I'd say number 1 to check is definitely the Koni's. Other than that, it sounds like you've replaced/checked just about everything.
JPR, how do you like the Ledas? I've found Koni yellows to have overly stiff valving for my tastes. Still, ANYTHING is better then blown dampers! I'm curious if the Ledas have a pretty broad adjustment range and can ride more smoothly, or if they are mostly stiff as well?
JPR, how do you like the Ledas? I've found Koni yellows to have overly stiff valving for my tastes. Still, ANYTHING is better then blown dampers! I'm curious if the Ledas have a pretty broad adjustment range and can ride more smoothly, or if they are mostly stiff as well?
#18
i just replaced my stock struts and shocks off my 86 with koni inserts\rear shocks, the stockers were not blown at all i thought that was pretty cool after 150000 miles
cant you just buy the upper strut bushing for like $40 or is that the early setup?
cant you just buy the upper strut bushing for like $40 or is that the early setup?
#19
The Ledas are very good. The range of available damping depends on the stifness of your springs. You can underdampen the suspension and it will bounce like a basketball (because the shocks dont dampen the springs ocillations) Mine have about 12 "clicks" left from the available 24; anything below 12 induces the basketball effect but I also have 300lb/in springs and 28mm torsion bars. In using the Koni yellows, ive found that their downfall is their lack of ability to handle the impact harshness of the road. the Koni 3012 were superior in this regard and the Ledas better still.
Jpr
Jpr
Originally Posted by Porschefile
What condition are your castor blocks in? If you have the stock type and they are really worn, that can cause all kinds of odd handling issues. I'd say number 1 to check is definitely the Koni's. Other than that, it sounds like you've replaced/checked just about everything.
JPR, how do you like the Ledas? I've found Koni yellows to have overly stiff valving for my tastes. Still, ANYTHING is better then blown dampers! I'm curious if the Ledas have a pretty broad adjustment range and can ride more smoothly, or if they are mostly stiff as well?
JPR, how do you like the Ledas? I've found Koni yellows to have overly stiff valving for my tastes. Still, ANYTHING is better then blown dampers! I'm curious if the Ledas have a pretty broad adjustment range and can ride more smoothly, or if they are mostly stiff as well?
#20
Drive-by provocation guy
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Not familiar with the Ledas. Cost vs. Koni's?
Yea, sounds like it is the struts. Springs are Welts. 250lb. in front.
Well, in regards to the caster blocks, my mech. noticed the strut bushing/bearing (rubber part) seemed worn and/or stretched a little father than the other side.
Yea, sounds like it is the struts. Springs are Welts. 250lb. in front.
Well, in regards to the caster blocks, my mech. noticed the strut bushing/bearing (rubber part) seemed worn and/or stretched a little father than the other side.
#22
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I spoke with a Koni tech about a month ago and he said that Koni doesn't recommend running a strut longer then 4 or 5 years. Buy the new 1414 inserts and KLA upper strut mounts from Paragon and call it a day. This will be your cheapest and best option for your setup.
#23
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Todd:
If interested, I have a complete Koni DOUBLE adjustable suspension taken from an '87 (sourced from Andial a few years back). Recent Koni NA rebuild across the board with zero miles since (they are in a sense factory "new"). The rears do NOT need to be taken off the car to set rebound, there are external adjustables for both rebound and compression on all 4 corners. It has the helper springs in the back too. Adjustable perches up front (of course) with the factory sport springs (450# IIRC).
I'm in Odessa, so if you decided to buy them, you could drive over here and I'm sure we could tackle the installation project in a half day. I also have some camber plates that are new if you need those too.
If interested, I have a complete Koni DOUBLE adjustable suspension taken from an '87 (sourced from Andial a few years back). Recent Koni NA rebuild across the board with zero miles since (they are in a sense factory "new"). The rears do NOT need to be taken off the car to set rebound, there are external adjustables for both rebound and compression on all 4 corners. It has the helper springs in the back too. Adjustable perches up front (of course) with the factory sport springs (450# IIRC).
I'm in Odessa, so if you decided to buy them, you could drive over here and I'm sure we could tackle the installation project in a half day. I also have some camber plates that are new if you need those too.
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Originally Posted by por951turbo
I spoke with a Koni tech about a month ago and he said that Koni doesn't recommend running a strut longer then 4 or 5 years. Buy the new 1414 inserts and KLA upper strut mounts from Paragon and call it a day. This will be your cheapest and best option for your setup.
So I would only need the inserts correct?
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MMMmmmm. I am sure you would offer a good deal, but probably still more than I am looking to swing right now
How far is Odessa from Orlando?
How far is Odessa from Orlando?
Originally Posted by SeaCay
Todd:
If interested, I have a complete Koni DOUBLE adjustable suspension taken from an '87 (sourced from Andial a few years back). Recent Koni NA rebuild across the board with zero miles since (they are in a sense factory "new"). The rears do NOT need to be taken off the car to set rebound, there are external adjustables for both rebound and compression on all 4 corners. It has the helper springs in the back too. Adjustable perches up front (of course) with the factory sport springs (450# IIRC).
I'm in Odessa, so if you decided to buy them, you could drive over here and I'm sure we could tackle the installation project in a half day. I also have some camber plates that are new if you need those too.
If interested, I have a complete Koni DOUBLE adjustable suspension taken from an '87 (sourced from Andial a few years back). Recent Koni NA rebuild across the board with zero miles since (they are in a sense factory "new"). The rears do NOT need to be taken off the car to set rebound, there are external adjustables for both rebound and compression on all 4 corners. It has the helper springs in the back too. Adjustable perches up front (of course) with the factory sport springs (450# IIRC).
I'm in Odessa, so if you decided to buy them, you could drive over here and I'm sure we could tackle the installation project in a half day. I also have some camber plates that are new if you need those too.
#26
Thefu
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Originally Posted by toddk911
MMMmmmm. I am sure you would offer a good deal, but probably still more than I am looking to swing right now
How far is Odessa from Orlando?
How far is Odessa from Orlando?
How much are you looking to swing right now?
#27
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About as much as some standard Koni inserts would cost
OK, what ever the cause is, I have noticed it seems to be heat/time related.
I.e. the car feels fine when first driving. Then, about 10-15 min or so as all temps and such are up to spec, then it becomes noticable.
That help any???
OK, what ever the cause is, I have noticed it seems to be heat/time related.
I.e. the car feels fine when first driving. Then, about 10-15 min or so as all temps and such are up to spec, then it becomes noticable.
That help any???
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Ok, definatly a heat issue. Was out at lunch and got up to interstate speeds 70 or so and car is REAL floaty.
I know I had this feeling in the past due to some cheap tires in the rear (thin sidewall) and the car felt the exact same.
I now have Khumo Excta's all around. Front about 6-8 months old and rears are about a month old.
Anyone think it could be the tires?? Since it seems worse with heat???
I know I had this feeling in the past due to some cheap tires in the rear (thin sidewall) and the car felt the exact same.
I now have Khumo Excta's all around. Front about 6-8 months old and rears are about a month old.
Anyone think it could be the tires?? Since it seems worse with heat???
#29
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I had a similar thing happen a while after bearings were changed...it may be worthwhile before doing anything too exotic or expensive just to ensure they are tight. I understand they can loosen off a bit when new.