Iamdreaver

Well i got the head off today and was surprised to see that i actually had blisters in the headgasket. So i squeezed these blisters and no lie, water squirted out. So i am pretty sure now that the headgasket is/was bad. I am gonna have the head rebuilt and checked through as soon as i find a machine shop in northern virginia that is recommended. Also, I could not get the exhaust manifold that goes to the 1 and 4 cylinders off until i took it off with the head. Is there a trick to getting this thing off? Also I am trying to figure out how i will do this venturi delete jazz butt i am lost, there are so many hoses and lines down there I want to turn my skin inside out. Here are some pics from today though, check out the picture of the oil that dripped out of the head. What part is the Venturi?

Ohh, one more question. The intake lines after the turbo actually had small amounts of oil in them, as you can see in one of the pictures. Is this really bad, seems like it could be a problem with the turbo. What do you guys think?

Tom M'Guinn

Taking the headers off with the head is the easiest way. Otherwise, you usually have to pull out the exhaust studs or jack the motor slightly. Some oil residue in the intake track is totally normal. Looks like you had some mixing, be sure to flush the oil and coolant well. That cruise control cable can be disconnected (easy) at the cc unit near the battery, to get it out of the way. The actual venturi is that "Y" or forked metal pipe in the middle of your 4th picture. I deleted mine with the updated factory hoses -- it really helps eliminate potential vacuum leak sources. Search for various explanations, but it's easy once you get the hoses.

hosrom_951

I was not able to remove the headers w/the cylinder head, i disconnected them. As Tom said, one of the stud would need to be removed.

Thing is, the exhaust header 1 & 4 has an expander on #1 runner, so it streaches a bit, hence why it is harder to remove/install that header.

Make sure to clean up as much as you can, nothing like a clean block/engine good luck

Tom M'Guinn

Funny, I've never had a problem -- head comes right up with the headers installed (after disconnected from the cross-over of course). I suspect everyone's car is a bit different -- head stud height, contour/denting profile of the metal shield on the fender, motor mount height, etc. all play a little part I imagine.

hosrom_951

Tom, the headers were rubbing against the car while i was lifting the head off, i didn't mind spending some extra time to remove the headers though.

35thSLP

While you are in there you might consider doing a venturi delete, refresh on the vacuum hoses and ditch the cycling valve and install a MBC. I'd also replace the two water hoses and heater control valve while you are there. Access is a breeze while you have everything apart and it is easy to do and not super expensive.

2bridges

35thSLP - why would you recommend for him to install a manual boost contoroller and remove Cycling Valve??? THIS IS BAD ADVICE.

Tom M'Guinn

Good call on the heater valve -- in fact, no better time to get a full coolant hose kit and replace them all.

JDeitz951

Since there are a ton of us out here who have done so, please explain so we may learn!

ehall

jacklet

cycling valve prepare to meet the trash can

Chris White

Somebody needs to look at the motor mounts....!
usually after they collapse it gets harder to pull the head with the headers on.

Chris White

streckfu's

Me too.

Jon Schepps

Originally Posted by JDeitz951
Since there are a ton of us out here who have done so, please explain so we may learn!


Because the cycling valve is only one element of a carefully designed system. One that's designed to provide a certain level of boost, air, fuel, timing as a function of things such as load, temperature, exhaust O2, etc. Simply replacing the cycling valve with a MBC "is bad advice"... unless you're going to set it for stock boost. But if that's the case, why bother?

Jon.

lart951

You can replace the CV valve with a manual boost controler if;

You leave your boost level untouch "stock"
You have chips programed to a certain boost level
You have a signal massanger or anyway to adjust your a/f ratio. You will need a WB to monitor your a/f ratio as well.

Otherwise removing the CV valve and increasing your boost level with a mbc is plain "dumb".

My .5 pesos