Where to Buy 2.8 Liter Stroker Components?
#2
3.0L crank...ask here or dismantlers
Carillo or Pauter rods so that they miss the lower girdle in clearance and the front of the oil pan. Pauter has them in stock, I heard Carillo was back ordered, check with Lindsey or not sure if you can go to Carillo direct.
Pistons - you might try Andial, if they haven't closed the door completely and Broadfoot Racing for pistons - then Tom C has done a set of his pistons for 2.8L in 101mm with the wrist pin moved - those pistons were sent to Swain, PC9 skirt coating and gold thermal coat - jwl's car is smooth as silk and fast as hell.
Machine shop to redo the bores if you go oversize pistons.
Carillo or Pauter rods so that they miss the lower girdle in clearance and the front of the oil pan. Pauter has them in stock, I heard Carillo was back ordered, check with Lindsey or not sure if you can go to Carillo direct.
Pistons - you might try Andial, if they haven't closed the door completely and Broadfoot Racing for pistons - then Tom C has done a set of his pistons for 2.8L in 101mm with the wrist pin moved - those pistons were sent to Swain, PC9 skirt coating and gold thermal coat - jwl's car is smooth as silk and fast as hell.
Machine shop to redo the bores if you go oversize pistons.
#4
There's no "cheap" 2.8L conversion, only varying degrees of expensive. There's a shop out of Massachusetts called "Under Pressure Performance" that used to carry the 3.0L cranks for about $1,300 but don't know if they still do.
#6
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From: Marietta, NY
Originally Posted by jturbo
Where is the least expensive place to buy a 2.8 liter stroker kit? Crank, Pistons, Rods, Rings etc.
So just to get this thread going further –
Why do you want the 2.8 stroker over a 2.7 bore motor? Why not go with a 3.0 since you are planning a build?
I am not busting your ***** so to speak – just wondering how you made your decision.
Chris White
#7
Originally Posted by Chris White
So just to get this thread going further –
Why do you want the 2.8 stroker over a 2.7 bore motor? Why not go with a 3.0 since you are planning a build?
I am not busting your ***** so to speak – just wondering how you made your decision.
Chris White
Why do you want the 2.8 stroker over a 2.7 bore motor? Why not go with a 3.0 since you are planning a build?
I am not busting your ***** so to speak – just wondering how you made your decision.
Chris White
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From: Marietta, NY
Originally Posted by aeronautica86
just for fun (since I'm not planning doing anything of the sort in the near future), I'd like to hear your thoughts on the 2.8L stroker vs a 2.7L bore motor, advantages/disadvantages of each, cost/performance ratio, reliablity/tunability of each etc...
A 2.7 requires boring out a block, I do this with sleeves so you can start with a worn or scored block. Add in new JE pistons and rings and you have a mostly brand new motor to start with. Cost for the 2.7 MID sleeved block and pistons - $2750
The 2.8 is usually done with a used block keeping the stock 100mm bore and pistons and adding a 3.0 crank. You need to do this with custom rods for clearance reasons and to also shorten the length to make up for the increased stroke. So the price is a 3.0 crank, custom rods and a good block and pistons. ($3k for those parts). With this you are still starting with a used pistons and bores. If you find first oversized pistons add over $1k for the pistons and extra money for the block machining.
3.0 engine version 1– take the sleeved 2.7 and add a 3.0 crank (about $1K). Add either custom rods or some clearance work.
3.0 engine version 2 – same as the 2.8 but start with a 3.0 block. You will need either a 2.7 head or modify a 2.5 8v head to match the coolant passages. Andail used to have 3.0 turbo pistons for $1.5k – hard to find now. Some folks mill the stock 3.0 pistons to lower the compression ratio, some get shorter rods.
Any of these can be set up and tuned for pretty good power. There are various theories on which solution is ‘best’. I prefer the 2.7 approach as a cost effective way to get some more displacement with a virtually all new short block. The 3.0 sleeved is better (more power) but significantly more cost.
Chris White
#12
Chris,
I had considered a 3.0L engine swap, but I am not certain how to go about doing so. Would it be necessary to replace the following items or would the stock 2.5L components bolt on?
Water Pump
Engine mounting points (Do they need to be modified?)
Clutch
Transmission
I had considered a 3.0L engine swap, but I am not certain how to go about doing so. Would it be necessary to replace the following items or would the stock 2.5L components bolt on?
Water Pump
Engine mounting points (Do they need to be modified?)
Clutch
Transmission
#13
BTW, Andial are still in the parts business. I purchased parts from them this week.
Another alternative is Performance Developments. They "make" (US distributors)the crank, Rods and Pistons. Also do all the machining in house on CNC machining. They are ones who do the complete closed deck, Dowelled Girdle, removable sump/Oil pan etc. All of the special parts that they designed/made for my engine are now for sale.
Another alternative is Performance Developments. They "make" (US distributors)the crank, Rods and Pistons. Also do all the machining in house on CNC machining. They are ones who do the complete closed deck, Dowelled Girdle, removable sump/Oil pan etc. All of the special parts that they designed/made for my engine are now for sale.