Mapping with powerperfect piggyback?
06-28-2006, 07:24 PM
#16
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Originally Posted by djungel-Jim
Woho! Thanks for all the help - the connections to my MAF were bad and now when I changed them things worked a lot better!
When I turned the voltage DOWN on the piggyback the A/F went up to 14ish.. I thought I had to raise the voltage instead of lowering it! Does that sound right?
Ok so tomorrow I'll hopefully be able to start map the car.. I just want to make sure I have understood things right;
Idle A/F: 14.7:1
Cruise A/F: 15:1 - 16:1
Full Load A/F: 12:1 - 12.5:1
Ok first I'll let the car idle and set the idle A/F to 14.7:1
Next, since my car almost stalls as soon as I push the throttle, should I just let it stay in neutral and give it some throttle until the next light on the piggyback lights up, spin that **** to the right A/F from above and then continue with the rest of the ***** like that?
Next I should be able to take the car for a spin and map it on like fourth gear or something, right? Or should I first map it somewhat on first, then go on to second, and so on to make sure the A/F is somewhat right when I get to fourth gear.. Hmm does it show I'm a novice on this??
Please advise! Thank you
When I turned the voltage DOWN on the piggyback the A/F went up to 14ish.. I thought I had to raise the voltage instead of lowering it! Does that sound right?
Ok so tomorrow I'll hopefully be able to start map the car.. I just want to make sure I have understood things right;
Idle A/F: 14.7:1
Cruise A/F: 15:1 - 16:1
Full Load A/F: 12:1 - 12.5:1
Ok first I'll let the car idle and set the idle A/F to 14.7:1
Next, since my car almost stalls as soon as I push the throttle, should I just let it stay in neutral and give it some throttle until the next light on the piggyback lights up, spin that **** to the right A/F from above and then continue with the rest of the ***** like that?
Next I should be able to take the car for a spin and map it on like fourth gear or something, right? Or should I first map it somewhat on first, then go on to second, and so on to make sure the A/F is somewhat right when I get to fourth gear.. Hmm does it show I'm a novice on this??
Please advise! Thank you
Under boost your optimal a/f should be 11:7 - 12:1
06-28-2006, 11:23 PM
#17
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I'm curious. Did you ever hook up the coolant temp sensor? It will screw with the fuel mapping of most modern cars if not working properly or dis-connected. It's entirely possible the 951 may be affected. What ECU geek that's familiar with this car knows this answer? (Meant in an entirely positive way folks)
06-29-2006, 12:27 AM
#18
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The granularity when tuning via the ***** on the power perfect is very coarse. To get better results you need to program it via your PC where you have finer grained control.
06-29-2006, 06:29 AM
#19
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Originally Posted by 95ONE
I'm curious. Did you ever hook up the coolant temp sensor? It will screw with the fuel mapping of most modern cars if not working properly or dis-connected. It's entirely possible the 951 may be affected. What ECU geek that's familiar with this car knows this answer? (Meant in an entirely positive way folks)
https://rennlist.com/forums/944-turbo-and-turbo-s-forum/273025-dry-turbo-install.html
06-29-2006, 06:34 AM
#20
Instructor
Thread Starter
boost a/f: 11:7 - 12:1 - check!
upload to laptop between runs - check!
Thanks
Of course you're welcome to join the mapping session out in värmdö tonight Anders! It might be a bit crowded inside the car though since I've already arranged for a friend to join me and help with the ***** and a/f give me a call or PM if you're still intersted!
upload to laptop between runs - check!
Thanks
Of course you're welcome to join the mapping session out in värmdö tonight Anders! It might be a bit crowded inside the car though since I've already arranged for a friend to join me and help with the ***** and a/f
give me a call or PM if you're still intersted!
06-29-2006, 07:00 PM
#23
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Dang! This didn't go as well as I had planned! Not even sweanders' wisdom and sarcastic comments helped me figuring out how to map correctly with the piggyback! 
Ok I started up my beauty in the garage. As usual the base map was super off and the car was idling really bad. But we managed to dial in the idle A/F correctly with the first **** on the piggyback. Next we slowly raised the revs until the next light on the piggyback light up (around 3-4000 revs) and then we dialed in that range to something like 11.7-12.5. So far so good. Next we thought we'd skip to dial in the rest of the range (4000 and above) and take the car for a spin to see how the A/F ratio would be when we accelerate to 4000 revs with first and second gear.. It went fine as long as I accelerated reaaaally slow.. But when I pushed the throttle just a tad bit harder and the load went up the A/F ratio went high directly and the car almost stalled! What's up with that!? What did we do wrong?
My first hypothesis is that we should have dialed in rpm 0-~6000 standing still instead of just 0-4000. I thought maybe the voltage rises when you push the throttle hard (more load) and since I hadn't dialed in that range, the car stalled..?
Please help me! Can you imagine what it was like driving the car you've worked with all winter and not being able to floor it!? gaah
Ok I started up my beauty in the garage. As usual the base map was super off and the car was idling really bad. But we managed to dial in the idle A/F correctly with the first **** on the piggyback. Next we slowly raised the revs until the next light on the piggyback light up (around 3-4000 revs) and then we dialed in that range to something like 11.7-12.5. So far so good. Next we thought we'd skip to dial in the rest of the range (4000 and above) and take the car for a spin to see how the A/F ratio would be when we accelerate to 4000 revs with first and second gear.. It went fine as long as I accelerated reaaaally slow.. But when I pushed the throttle just a tad bit harder and the load went up the A/F ratio went high directly and the car almost stalled! What's up with that!? What did we do wrong?
My first hypothesis is that we should have dialed in rpm 0-~6000 standing still instead of just 0-4000. I thought maybe the voltage rises when you push the throttle hard (more load) and since I hadn't dialed in that range, the car stalled..?
Please help me! Can you imagine what it was like driving the car you've worked with all winter and not being able to floor it!? gaah
Last edited by djungel-Jim; 06-30-2006 at 02:18 AM.
06-29-2006, 08:20 PM
#24
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Originally Posted by djungel-Jim
Dang! This didn't go as well as I had planned! Not even sweanders' wisdom and sarcastic comments helped me figuring out how to map correctly with the piggyback!
Ok I started up my beauty in the garage. As usual the base map was super off and the car was idling really bad. But we managed to dial in the idle A/F correctly with the first **** on the piggyback. Next we slowly raised the revs until the next light on the piggyback light up (around 3-4000 revs) and then we dialed in that range to something like 11.7-12.5. So far so good. Next we thought we'd skip to dial in the rest of the range (4000 and above) and take the car for a spin to see how the A/F ratio would be when we accelerate to 4000 revs with first and second gear.. It went fine as long as I accelerated reaaaally slow.. But when I pushed the throttle just a tad bit harder and the load went up the A/F ratio went high directly and the car almost stalled! What's up with that!? What did we do wrong?
My first hypothesis is that we should have dialed in rpm 0-~6000 standing still instead of just 0-4000. I thought maybe the voltage rises when you push the throttle hard (more load) and since I hadn't dialed in that range, the car stalled..?
Please help me! Can you imagine what it was like driving the car you've worked with all winter and not being able to floor it!? gaah
Ok I started up my beauty in the garage. As usual the base map was super off and the car was idling really bad. But we managed to dial in the idle A/F correctly with the first **** on the piggyback. Next we slowly raised the revs until the next light on the piggyback light up (around 3-4000 revs) and then we dialed in that range to something like 11.7-12.5. So far so good. Next we thought we'd skip to dial in the rest of the range (4000 and above) and take the car for a spin to see how the A/F ratio would be when we accelerate to 4000 revs with first and second gear.. It went fine as long as I accelerated reaaaally slow.. But when I pushed the throttle just a tad bit harder and the load went up the A/F ratio went high directly and the car almost stalled! What's up with that!? What did we do wrong?
My first hypothesis is that we should have dialed in rpm 0-~6000 standing still instead of just 0-4000. I thought maybe the voltage rises when you push the throttle hard (more load) and since I hadn't dialed in that range, the car stalled..?
Please help me! Can you imagine what it was like driving the car you've worked with all winter and not being able to floor it!? gaah
I use the power perfect as well and you need to dial the a/f under load not when the car is standing still. Also you don't need to adjust the 4 **** because that's beyond your rpm range.
06-29-2006, 09:30 PM
#26
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Originally Posted by sweanders
Lart, did you have the o2-sensor connected when dialling in the PP?
06-30-2006, 03:41 AM
#27
Instructor
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by lart951
I use the power perfect as well and you need to dial the a/f under load not when the car is standing still. Also you don't need to adjust the 4 **** because that's beyond your rpm range.
I guess my question is if the V-in from the MAF changes depending on revs or load? For an example if I'm in 1000 revs with X Vin and then I floor it the voltage rises more than if I would've slowly accelerated?
06-30-2006, 06:42 AM
#28
Nordschleife Master
Originally Posted by djungel-Jim
Please help me! Can you imagine what it was like driving the car you've worked with all winter and not being able to floor it!? gaah
It's time we hook you up
06-30-2006, 09:14 AM
#29
Instructor
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Duke
No man should ever have to endure the pain of having a rolling Porsche without being able to floor it!
It's time we hook you up
It's time we hook you up
07-26-2006, 06:29 AM
#30
Instructor
Thread Starter
Argh I STILL haven't sorted out my A/F with my powerperfect controller!
Yesterday I was out with a friend to get it sorted. We started out at boost ~1 bar and we managed to dial in the A/F to where we were satsisfied - around 13:1 at spoolup and then 11.5 - 11.8 at full boost.. Next we dialed in my boost to 1.2 bar with my boost controller.. And all of a sudden instead of the A/F graph having a "hump" at spoolup it went DOWN instead! So with my low boost the A/F at spoolup was like 13:1 and now, with my higher boost it instead goes DOWN to 11.3:1!
Does that make any sense?
My friend who was dialing the controller told me that when the car reached spool up all of a sudden the last led light up on the controller, then it went down to the "normal" leds range when boost was reached.. He had a tough time trying to fix the "hump" (13:1) in the graph at spool up.. He tried to use the last **** to raise the A/F at spool up (since that was the light that was lit on spool up), but of course when he changed the last **** it screwed up the A/F on the upper rpm range as well...
Does anyone recognise this behaviour??
Yesterday I was out with a friend to get it sorted. We started out at boost ~1 bar and we managed to dial in the A/F to where we were satsisfied - around 13:1 at spoolup and then 11.5 - 11.8 at full boost.. Next we dialed in my boost to 1.2 bar with my boost controller.. And all of a sudden instead of the A/F graph having a "hump" at spoolup it went DOWN instead! So with my low boost the A/F at spoolup was like 13:1 and now, with my higher boost it instead goes DOWN to 11.3:1!
Does that make any sense?
My friend who was dialing the controller told me that when the car reached spool up all of a sudden the last led light up on the controller, then it went down to the "normal" leds range when boost was reached.. He had a tough time trying to fix the "hump" (13:1) in the graph at spool up.. He tried to use the last **** to raise the A/F at spool up (since that was the light that was lit on spool up), but of course when he changed the last **** it screwed up the A/F on the upper rpm range as well...
Does anyone recognise this behaviour??
Last edited by djungel-Jim; 07-26-2006 at 06:49 AM.