CYCLING VALVE BYPASS
#1
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I'm installing a manual boost controller and would like to bypass the cycling valve. I think that in order to do this I need to run the other end of the manual boost controller straight from the banjo bolt to the wastgate tube.(So I have read) But where Do I connect exactly to this wastgate tube? I'm not sure. It is a jungle under there of vaccum lines and pressure fittings. Does anyone have any pictures or good descriptions? Also what do I have to do with the cycling valve after bypassed? What do I have to plug? It is over there by the entrance to the intake manifold on the mechanic's RH side of engine? with a curved boot sticking out
of the top of it? I'm not sure. I did a thread search and was having problems understanding some of the info out there. If anyone has pics who has done this that would be awesome and greatly appreciated. Thank You.
of the top of it? I'm not sure. I did a thread search and was having problems understanding some of the info out there. If anyone has pics who has done this that would be awesome and greatly appreciated. Thank You.
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#3
Hey Man
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Rennlist Member
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You'll find that most people here that run any kind of none OE boost control do a 'venturi delete' to simplify all those vac lines you mention. A search will give you all you need to know.
#4
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This diagram on the paragon website might be helpful http://www.tech-session.com/kb/index..._v2&id=117&c=4
#5
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I ran a line from the side port of my TIAL to the bottom of my MBC. I am using an inline pro MBC. From there to the banjo bolt on the Hard pipe coming off the turbo. I zip tied the MBC to the old capped off hard Line leading to the cycling valve. It actually made a nice place to mount the MBC. I capped the line in the J boot going from the MAF to the turbo. Works for me.
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